I once had a client with a large grey pearl that was not dark enough for her taste. As she was a motion picture star, moreover, she had to be concerned with how the jewel would photograph. I suggested mounting the pearl in a high setting with a background of baguette diamonds. The brilliance of the diamonds caught and reflected the shadings of the pearl, both adding to the depth of its color and increasing the quality of its lustrous tones. It enhanced the lightness of the actress’s skin and in her photographs stood out as a most striking jewel.
The Black Pearl
Beyond all other combinations, the white pearl stands in superb contrast with the black. The grey pearl also makes an interesting counterbalance with the white, but the effects of the rare black pearl are unique. Crown jewels of almost every kingdom, active or in exile, include a design utilizing the values of the white pearl with the black.
Until recent years, the black pearl was the most sought after of all its kind, and wise women today are again appreciating its values. There is no more dramatic accent than the dark lustre of a black pearl against a fair skin. The most striking use I ever saw of such a contrast was at a party when Marlene Dietrich commanded every eye. She had asked me to design a ring for her with three large pearls, one black, one white, one pink. For her beautiful hand I mounted the three pearls high and set them against round and baguette diamonds. Shortly after the ring was finished, I saw Marlene at the party. She wore a simple dress, high-necked and long-sleeved. With sure discrimination she wore very few jewels: earrings, of which one was a white pearl, one was a black; and the pearl ring. The striking ensemble could not have been better displayed.
There can be great dramatic value in a single pearl.
Decorative Rings
Most of the rings a woman wears, of course, are purely decorative without symbolism or intent beyond the enhancing of her beauty. The variety of such rings is infinite, and the range allows wide choice, no matter what the personality and taste of the wearer.
The little finger is often favored for a decorative ring, and certain flower motifs are attractive there. Such a ring should be comparatively small; the little finger must border the hand with a straight line. This ring requires careful fitting so that it will not turn to the side. Women who are active or who move their hands a lot while talking should avoid the pinkie ring, as delicate settings may be damaged by frequent knocks.