CHAPTER 8
The Bracelet
Early Uses
The bracelet (from bras, the French for arm) or armlet was in early times worn at various places along the arm. Placed high on the forearm and above the biceps, a tight band gave added strength to the warrior for speedy manipulation of his shield. A woman was more likely to wear her bracelets closer to the wrist. In some parts of the Orient, however, bracelets of coins were worn by the women as evidence of their husbands’ wealth; these might, band after band, encircle the entire arm, making it, in full regalia on formal occasions, much too heavy for lifting. In general, bracelets were worn in styles determined by the fashion of the age and the rank of the wearer. Today, their use is purely for decorative purposes.
The Emperors of India
The earliest bracelets, among the ancient Egyptians and probably the Hebrews, employed no precious stones, being solid bands of plain or enameled metal that slipped over the hands. The practice of setting the bracelet with brightly colored gems grew almost elaborate among the Mogul Emperors of India. Two of these royal bracelets of great splendor were carried off from Delhi by the Persian conqueror Nadir Shah in 1739. The main stone of the right armlet is the twin of the Kohinoor, the almost equally famous Darya-i-nur, “river of light.” It is a diamond of 186 carats, recognized as having the finest brilliance in the world. The main stone of the left armlet is a diamond of 146 carats, the Taj-e-mah, “crown of the moon.”
Various Materials
Among primitive peoples, bracelets of various materials have been continuously popular, often several worn on a single arm. The better ones are made of gold, silver, or mother-of-pearl; others are fashioned of iron, copper, horn, beads and other materials. In China, prized bracelets are cut of a single piece of jade.
In the Orient, the use of the bracelet never lapsed. In Europe, the arm decoration—along with other adornment—grew less popular in the Middle Ages, but with the flowering of the Renaissance the bracelet again came into fashion.
Types of Bracelets
There are two main types of bracelets in general use. First came the stiff bangle bracelet, a rigid band. This may be of one piece, the so-called “slave” bracelet, which must be slipped over the hand. Or it may be provided with a hinged and a pronged catch or other form of a clasp, which either opens or loosens the bracelet for putting on and removal. The second type is the flexible bracelet. This may be a linked chain or a series of motifs. In recent years a sort of spring-link device has been developed so that the bracelet opens to slip over the hand, then tightens to cling to the appropriate position on the arm.