A few more general observations may be made, in the field of the etiquette of jewelry.
The time of day has a share in the determination of the jewelry. Just as a gourmet never smokes before the coffee, so a woman of taste never wears diamonds before lunch. In the evening, conversely, save on the most informal occasions such as a surprise party or an outing, she will not wear a tailored piece of leather, silver, or wood.
Color Combinations
Gems of various colors may be combined on a single piece, but it is inharmonious to wear two jewels of differently colored stones. Thus a tiara of rubies will clash with a necklace of emeralds; a sapphire bracelet will war against a pair of ruby earclips. The colors may not be at odds, but the jewels instead of blending will vie with one another; the effect will be of discord instead of harmony. Sets of matching jewels enhance one another, and ameliorate the wearer’s measure of beauty.
Restraint
Jewels in too many places create a confused rather than a blending effect. If earclips, necklace and a dress clip are worn, a jeweled comb or hair-clasp will add an excessive touch, unless the jeweled part is visible only from the back. An exception to this is the tiara, which adds regal height and dignity, but of course a tiara is worn only with a décolleté gown on a most formal occasion. If a tiara is worn, the other jewels should match it in period design, antique, classical, romantic, or modernistic.
Eyeglasses
I have already mentioned eyeglasses. The simpler these are, the better. Certainly they should not gleam with gold nor glitter with rhinestones when one is wearing earclips. The meretricious sparkle of the eyeglass rims draws attention from the earclips—which is the reverse of the proper procedure, for well designed clips can lure attention away from the glasses.
The Lorgnette
A woman who wears eyeglasses will be pleasantly surprised if, for more formal occasions, she tries the effects of the lorgnon or lorgnette. Whereas eyeglasses, fixed upon the face, tend to fight with the features or with other accessories, the lifted lorgnette becomes not only an adornment but a weapon. As much as the once universal fan, it can play a part in the charms of coquetry, and add to the eloquence of the various gestures of gay conversation or romance. In itself, the lorgnette can be a beautiful jewel, in gold or platinum and precious stones. In the hands of a graceful woman, it can considerably embellish her beauty, and is an adjunct to an evening’s enjoyment that should be more widely employed.