List of Illustrations
| [Frontispiece] | |
| THE BIRTHSTONES, COLORPLATES | |
| [Following Page 32] | |
| [1.] | GREEK EARRINGS, 5TH CENTURY B.C. |
| [2.] | CYPRIOTE PENDANT, 8TH CENTURY B.C. |
| [3.] | EARLY 18TH CENTURY ITALIAN BROOCH |
| [4.] | EGYPTIAN BRACELET, 4TH CENTURY B.C. |
| [5.] | ETRUSCAN RING |
| [6.] | 18TH CENTURY ITALIAN RING |
| [7.] | CYPRIOTE RING |
| [8.] | ROMAN WREATH, 3RD CENTURY B.C. |
| [9.] | INSIDE VIEW OF THE FAMOUS OLD TIFFANY STORE, NEW YORK, 1875 |
| [10.] | THE CROWNING OF A QUEEN |
| [11.] | THE BRITISH CROWN JEWELS |
| [12.] | THE BRITISH CROWN JEWELS |
| [13.] | REMODELLING THE IMPERIAL STATE CROWN |
| [14.] | EMPRESS ELISABETH OF AUSTRIA |
| [Following Page 104] | |
| [15.] | QUEEN ELIZABETH II |
| [16.] | PEARL AND BAGUETTE DIAMOND EARCLIPS |
| [17.] | DEEP SEA ALGAE |
| [18.] | DOUBLE ROSE CLIP |
| [19.] | DIAMOND AND PEARL LEAVES |
| [20.] | PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE |
| [21.] | PEARL RING |
| [22.] | QUEEN GERALDINE OF ALBANIA |
| [23.] | DIAMOND NECKLACE |
| [24.] | DIAMONDS CAUGHT IN A NET |
| [25.] | NECKLACE FOR A BRIDE |
| [26.] | DIAMOND PINCUSHION ORNAMENT |
| [27.] | DIAMOND PINCUSHION ORNAMENT |
| [28.] | MARIANNE OSTIER |
| [Following Page 176] | |
| [29.] | MRS. FREDERIC GIMBEL |
| [30.] | BELLFLOWER BROOCH AND EARCLIPS |
| [31.] | BRACELET AND ENGAGEMENT RING |
| [32.] | DESIGN FOR A DIAMOND RING |
| [33.] | DESIGN FOR A GOLD RING |
| [34.] | DESIGN FOR A FORMAL DIAMOND AND PLATINUM BRACELET |
| [35.] | DIAMOND AND PEARL BRACELET |
| [36.] | DESIGN FOR A BRACELET |
| [37.] | TREE OF LIFE |
| [38.] | DESIGN FOR A MULTI-PURPOSE JEWEL |
| [39.] | AURORA BOREALIS |
| [40.] | FLOWER FANTASY |
| [41.] | DIAMOND HAIR ORNAMENT |
| [42.] | THREE-STRAND PEARL BRACELET |
| [43.] | MISS BLANCHE THEBOM |
| [44.] | CANTERBURY BELL |
| [45.] | GOLD SHELL FOR INFORMAL WEAR |
| [46.] | FLOWER LAPEL BROOCH |
| [47.] | MRS. TEX MC CRARY |
| [Following Page 256] | |
| [48.] | PORTRAIT OF H. H. INDIRA DEVI |
| [49.] | SPRAY PIN DESIGN |
| [50.] | DESIGN FOR A DIAMOND CUP |
| [51.] | DESIGN FOR A DOUBLE CLIP |
| [52.] | DESIGN FOR A GOLD AND DIAMOND PIN |
| [53.] | PORTRAIT OF FLIPPY |
| [54.] | FLORIAN |
| [55.] | SET OF EARCLIPS AND BROOCH |
| [56.] | GOLD AND DIAMOND WATCH |
| [57.] | PEARL NECKLACE WITH TWO DIAMOND MOTIFS |
| [58.] | TABLE OF DIAMONDS |
| [59.] | MODELS OF THE KOHINOOR DIAMOND |
| [60.] | GOLD CIGAR BOX |
Foreword
“Diamonds,” the song goes, “are a girl’s best friend.” Take special note of the sex; it is significant. For only among humans has the female increasingly become the adorned sex. The mane of the lion or of the stallion gives the male a magnificence beyond the competence of the lioness or the mare. It is the peacock that spreads the studded glory of its tail—not the peahen. As among the birds and beasts, so primitive man was the resplendent sex, while his mate went about her task, in more subdued and humble tones. By the time of the Renaissance—it took that long in civilization’s climb—men and women were about equal in their adornment. In Europe, indeed, only men wore diamonds until 1444, when King Charles VII of France (whom Joan of Arc had placed upon the throne) was captivated by Agnes Sorel’s beauty and daring, when she appeared in a superb necklace of diamonds. The diamond at once became the prized gem of womankind.
The costumes and jewels of the courtiers of Elizabeth I of England were surpassed by those of the Queen only in the measure of her superior station. Since then, however, the attire of men has grown increasingly functional, sedate, and commonplace, while that of women has retained its freedom of color and flow. And the great world of jewelry is preeminently the woman’s domain.
Scientists in several fields have sought the reasons for this change; we may rest content with the fact. A man may be thought distinguished, or perhaps handsome; only a woman may be called beautiful. And by proper adornment of apparel and jewelry, every woman seeks to enhance her beauty.
Certain austere sects frown upon “artificial” aids to beauty. In the hills of Pennsylvania are honest women whose lips and cheeks have never been touched by added color. But such persons are outside the main path of human progress. For the quest of beauty—surely a legitimate and a desirable quest—has taken the same path as the other great adventures of man, which have placed him supreme among all living creatures.