The old and the new Peru

by Marie Robinson Wright

A FEAST DAY CELEBRATION, SHOWING THE UNIVERSITY AND THE JESUITS’ CHURCH, CUZCO.

It is impossible to visit Cuzco without finding its wonderful stone walls and ancient ruins objects of increasing interest and curiosity. Every street and alley tells a story of Inca days, old walls of Incaic architecture forming the base of many of the modern edifices. In Cuzco more than in any other city of the New World, the ancient landmarks have been preserved in the midst of modern changes. The Temple of the Sun and the great fortress of Sacsahuaman, “the Capitol and Coliseum of Peruvian Rome,” still present interesting features to the sightseer, notwithstanding the vandalism of the Conquerors and the destructive elements of time. Not only is the convent of Santo Domingo built on the foundation walls of the ancient Coricancha,—the greatest and richest of all the temples of Inca worship,—but a Christian altar occupies the very place where the sacred emblem of the Sun god was guarded by the high priests of Tahuantinsuyo, and the cells of the convent of Santa Catalina are the same chambers that were once reserved for the Virgins of the Sun. The cloister of Santo Domingo is formed of massive stone columns, which support a beautifully carved archway surrounding the patio or inner garden of the convent. This was one of the first edifices built by the Spaniards in Peru; and a short distance away is the historic spot where the Conquerors formed their quartel and took refuge when overpowered by the superior numbers of the Indians. Tradition relates that, on one occasion, the Spaniards were besieged in this entrenchment, and were about to perish,—the Indians having set fire to the defences,—when the Virgin Mary descended in a cloud to their relief, accompanied by the patron saint of Spain, Saint James, or “Santiago,” on a white horse. By this divine interposition, the flames were extinguished and victory rewarded the brave propagators of the faith. The cathedral was erected near this spot, one of its chapels, called “Our Lady of the Triumph,” serving to commemorate this miracle.

INTERIOR OF THE JESUITS’ CHURCH, CUZCO.

The old churches and other structures of colonial times are as interesting in their way as the remains of Incaic architecture, and Cuzco is full of reminiscences of the viceroyalty. The cathedral, built in the style of the Renaissance, was begun soon after the Conquest, and was not completed until ninety years later, in the middle of the seventeenth century. It is of stone and the cost of construction was so great that one of the viceroys remarked “it would have been less expensive in silver.” The interior consists of three naves, separated by stone pillars which support high, vaulted arches; in the central nave is the choir, the carving of which is superb; and in front of it stands the high altar, covered with silver. Two organs fill the church with the music of their rich tones on Sundays and feast days. The cathedral has many paintings, one of which, El Señor de la Agonia, is a masterpiece, said to be an original Van Dyck. In the sacristy are portraits of the popes and of all the bishops of Cuzco. One of the most precious possessions of the cathedral is the monstrance, which is ornamented with pearls, diamonds, emeralds, rubies and other precious stones of great value. In the naves to the right and left of the main entrance to the cathedral are chapels dedicated to the images of the Virgin, our Lord and the Saints, worshipped in special commemoration of some miracle. The Indians are particularly devoted to Our Lord of the Earthquakes, represented by an image that is blackened with the smoke of candles that have been placed on the altar by innumerable worshippers. It is not unusual to see the space in front of this chapel occupied by a group of Indians on their knees, gazing in adoration on the image of El Señor de los Temblores, whom they regard as their especial protector. Their religious processions in his honor are held on Monday of Holy Week and are attended by an immense concourse.

THE PREFECTURE, CUZCO.

The signal for beginning a religious procession in Cuzco is given by the ringing of the great bell of the cathedral, the “Maria Angola,” one of the richest and clearest-toned bells in the world. The history of the “Maria Angola” is interesting. It is named in honor of a pious lady of Cuzco who gave three hundred pounds’ weight of gold to be used in casting it. This enormous bell, which is large enough to cover a group of eight men, was cast in the city of Cuzco in 1659. An inclined plane had to be built from the cathedral tower to the street in order to raise the colossal piece of bronze to its place, and the task required the employment of a host of workmen. The prevailing controversy of the time when the bell was made is indicated by the words engraved on its border: Ora pro nobis, Alabada sea el Santisimo Sacramento del Altar y la Purisima Conception de Nuestra Señora, sin pecado original [“Pray for us; Glory be to the most holy sacrament of the Altar and the most pure conception of Our Lady, without original sin.”] The rich, sonorous tones of the “Maria Angola” may be heard twenty-five miles away from Cuzco, and the music is most beautiful and potent to incline one to a spirit of reverence. When its clear tones announce the elevation of the Host, the venders in the market place fall on their knees and the business of buying and selling is suspended while the solemn voice from the cathedral tower calls to a more sacred duty. It is said that the soft, vibrant tone of the “Maria Angola” bell is due to the great amount of gold in its composition.

CALLE MARQUEZ, CUZCO.