The old and the new Peru

by Marie Robinson Wright

The dividing line between the Lima of the viceroyalty and the Lima of the republic is nowhere more evident than in the appearance of the city’s popular driveways and promenades. The Paseo Colón is the modern fashionable residence quarter, and the favorite resort for the best society of Lima on the afternoons of the Corso. It is about half a mile long and one hundred and fifty feet wide, extending from the Plaza de la Exposicion to the Plaza Bolognesi. Along the middle of the driveway, from one end to the other, runs a garden bordered with trees, flowers, and shrubs, divided at intervals by monuments, pillars, and fountains, and overarched throughout by artistically arranged wires for electric lights; at night when these successive arches are illuminated, the Paseo is a brilliant scene, presenting an extraordinary effect. Stone pavements extend along each side of the central garden, for the use of foot passengers; and the broad avenue, with its pleasant driveway thus divided, is adorned by a double line of handsome residences that overlook it from both sides. Adjoining the Plaza de la Exposicion, at the head of the Paseo, is the large and beautiful Exposition Park, named in commemoration of the General Exposition of 1870, which took place in these grounds. The park covers thirty acres, and is laid out in shaded walks, artificial lakes, grottoes, gardens, and conservatories, in which all kinds of tropical and sub-tropical plants and flowers are to be seen, including choice Peruvian orchids. A circle of palm trees encloses a pretty kiosk, always a favorite retreat, and several edifices in various styles of architecture ornament the grounds. The Exposition Palace stands at the entrance to the park, and is one of the handsomest buildings in Lima. Its lower floor is used for balls, concerts, and lectures, the floor above being occupied by the National Museum, the Historical Institute, and the Athenæum of Lima. It faces the Paseo Colón, directly opposite to another handsome edifice, the Municipal Institute of Hygiene.

STATUE OF COLUMBUS IN THE PASEO COLÓN.

The Historical Institute is one of the most important scientific institutions of Peru, and one destined to occupy a high place among the societies of America. Its purpose is to cultivate and advance the study of national history, including all that pertains to the ethnology and archæology of the country. This embraces a wide field and opens up illimitable prospects of investigation. The institute has charge of the National Museum, which is the repository for collections of objects of historical value and interest. The work of collecting, deciphering, arranging, annotating, and publishing documents relating to the national history, as well as the responsibility of guarding and preserving the national monuments of archæological and artistic value, is under the direction of the institute, which was created by decree of the government of Peru on the 18th of February, 1905. Dr. Max Uhle has charge of the prehistoric department of the museum, a section full of interest for those who have a curiosity to see the wonderful potteries, textiles, and mummies that have been taken from Peruvian burial mounds. Although the work of classifying and arranging these relics of antiquity was begun only a little more than a year ago, the exhibit is already assuming great importance, and it will undoubtedly be among the famous world collections one of these days. The collection of objects of the colonial and the republican periods is of important historical interest. Here may be seen curious relics of the time of the conquest, even the first baptismal font used in Lima, which was presented to the museum by the church of Santo Domingo. Many and varied articles belonging to the period of the viceroyalty have been collected, among others, the wooden cross that was carried at the head of the procession in the auto de fé as early as the sixteenth century; and the splendid coach, red and gold, with the Torre-Tagle arms emblazoned on its panels, in which the great marquis made his magnificent progresses across the country, in royal style, with outriders and lackeys in attendance. There are trophies of the war of independence, among them Bolivar’s spurs and the bed on which General Sucre is said to have slept the night before Ayacucho; and among the precious treasures of more recent days are preserved the swords of Colonel Bolognesi, the cap and epaulettes of Admiral Grau, a Chilean flag and other souvenirs of the war of the Pacific. Paintings of historical scenes and portraits of great men adorn the walls.

Leaving the modern Paseo Colón and Exposition Park, and crossing the Rimac, one is again in the old city of the viceroys, the famous Avenida de Acho extending along the river bank from the ancient stone bridge, built in colonial days, to the modern structure called the Balta Bridge, in honor of a former president of the republic. This avenue, the fashionable promenade of the capital up to half a century ago, is divided into three roadways, the central one, bordered with tall poplars, being used for riding and driving, while those on each side are reserved as walks. It is popular on holidays and is thronged on the days of the bull fights. Of equal interest, historically, is the Jardin de los Descalzos (“Garden of the Barefooted Friars”), which is situated a short distance beyond the Avenida de Acho, and just at the foot of the Cerro de San Cristobal, a mountain that rises close behind the city. The garden of the Descalzos extends along an avenue more than half a mile in length, ornamented by twelve statues that represent the signs of the zodiac, and it is beautified throughout its length by tropical trees and plants, while at intervals are placed handsome urns and marble benches. An iron railing, six feet high, surrounds the garden, and a beautiful fountain at its terminus completes the harmony of the picture, which is enhanced by the overshadowing Cerro, and the ancient church and convent of Barefooted Friars, just below.

KIOSK OF PALMS, EXPOSITION PARK.

With the destruction, a few years ago, of the walls that formerly surrounded the city, plans for its beautification were initiated on an extensive scale; the Boulevard Bolognesi, the Boulevard Grau and other broad paseos were laid out, forming an almost uninterrupted driveway from the river around the city’s southern limits to the river again. The Boulevard Grau passes the Botanical Garden, in which are collected specimens of tropical and semi-tropical flora of every variety. Stately palms guard the entrance to the garden, and bordering its shady walks are beautiful plants and flowers in gorgeous colors and of wonderful growth. The Chusia, a remarkable tree of which the fruit bursts open when ripe, showing a pretty flower with scarlet seeds, is among the interesting arboreal specimens seen here.

PAVILION IN EXPOSITION PARK.