The old and the new Peru

by Marie Robinson Wright

AREQUIPA AND THE MISTI.

One of the motives that decided Pizarro to choose the base of the Misti as a site for the construction of a colonial city was expressed in his formal authorization, which set forth that, in the ten months that the Spaniards had lived there, none of their number had died, though they formed a considerable settlement. Favored by the circumstances that bountiful Nature and human industry contributed to the new city from the period of its foundation, Arequipa grew and flourished, and in the time of the Viceroy Toledo, it received by the royal decree of King Philip II. the honorable title of “very noble and very loyal.” A notable compliment was paid to the ladies of Arequipa in this decree, which compared them to the Roman matrons in devotion and self-sacrifice, praising the spirit shown in the giving up of their jewels to raise a royal donation, a few years before.

A CELEBRATION OF MASS ON THE SUMMIT OF THE MISTI.

Arequipa is a “white city,” built of native stone from the inexhaustible quarries of the Misti. The stone is of volcanic formation, white, porous, and easily chiselled; in the older edifices, which were constructed during the time of the viceroyalty, the façades are exquisitely carved in designs as fine as lace work, showing how well this stone lends itself to the beauties of decorative architecture. Owing to the numerous earthquakes which have visited Arequipa in the past, it is the custom to build only one and two-story structures, the walls being sometimes more than three feet in thickness. Many of the houses are built with a vaulted roof, the arch offering greatest resistance to the destructive force of seismic convulsions. As there is plenty of space available, the most costly residences cover a considerable area, having large patios, or interior courts, which are paved with ornamental tiles, and arranged with handsome jardinières of plants and flowers. Some of the patios are beautified with trees and a flower garden, while others have an artistic fountain in the midst. Arequipa has not yet reached the period of congested thoroughfares and a population that can be accommodated only by means of “skyscrapers.” These huge towers with little more than pigeon-holes for rooms, which are among the necessary evils of overcrowded modern centres, are still unknown to the city of the emerald ceinture.

Arequipa is built on the banks of the river Chili, its streets stretching out in all directions to the campiña, or green country fields surrounding it. As in all Spanish-American cities the principal square is the centre from which radiates the activity of the population. It is popularly called the Plaza Mayor, and bears the official name of Plaza de Armas, or “Military Plaza.” In Arequipa, the Plaza de Armas presents a particularly attractive appearance, the Cathedral, which extends along one side of this square, being a magnificent and imposing edifice, while the arched portales that overlook the remaining three sides are picturesque examples of colonial architecture.

LOS PORTALES, AREQUIPA.

The Cathedral is one of the oldest and most interesting temples of Catholic America. Nearly three hundred years ago the decree was issued for its construction, by Pope Paul IV., though it was not until the time of his successor, Pope Paul V., that the work was begun, during the reign of King Philip III, in 1612. The temple was built in accordance with the custom of those days, the decorations of its arches and columns being elaborate and of costly workmanship. Altars of cedar, carved in beautiful design, were subsequently replaced by those of silver, the abundance of this precious metal resulting in its lavish use for the decoration of all the churches and convents of the viceroyalty. The chancel occupied the centre of the chief nave and its seats were of finest cedar, their carved backs showing in high relief the effigies of the twelve apostles and other saints. In the sacristy were preserved many rich treasures, consecrated vases of gold, sacerdotal vestments of rare value, and a collection of portraits of all the bishops of Arequipa from the earliest days. Many of these priceless possessions were destroyed by fire in 1844, when everything perishable succumbed to the flames that wrapped the great edifice in a lurid sheet. The silver of the altars ran over the floor in a molten stream, all efforts to save the precious ornaments being futile. The rebuilding of the sacred structure took twenty years, and was little more than completed when a terrible earthquake visited the city, in 1868, which, however, damaged the Cathedral only slightly;—a proof of its excellent and solid construction, since the shock was terrific and prolonged and resulted in much loss of property.