Heat the milk to a boil in a farina kettle, or in a tin pail set in a pot of boiling water.
In warm weather put a bit of soda no larger than a pea in the milk. While it is heating beat the eggs in a bowl. When the milk is scalding, add the salt and sugar, and pour the hot liquid upon the eggs, stirring all the while. Beat up well and return to the inner vessel, keeping the water in the outer at a hard boil. Stir two or three times in the first five minutes; afterward, almost constantly.
In a quarter of an hour it ought to be done, but of this you can only judge by close observation and practice.
The color changes from deep to creamy yellow; the consistency to a soft richness that makes it drop slowly and heavily from the spoon, and the mixture tastes like a custard instead of uncooked eggs, sugar and milk.
When you have done it right once, you recognize these signs ever afterward.
If underdone, the custard will be crude and watery; if overdone, it will clot or break.
Take it when quite right—just at the turn—directly from the fire, and pour into a bowl to cool, before flavoring with the essence.
With a good boiled custard as the beginning we can make scores of delightful desserts. First among these we may place