In commencing to weave, place the hair between two cards, or stiff brushes, as shown in diagram, pressing them tight together, so that in drawing out, it is perfectly free from tangles; draw out with the right hand, between the thumb and fore-finger, the quantity of hair required for the size of the weft; then change it into the left hand, and lift it up to the No. 1 cord, as shown in diagram; lay the strand over No. 1, under No. 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, over Nos. 2 and 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3 around under Nos. 3 and 2, and over No. 1. Then push the strands together, as shown in diagram. For this weft use sewing silk.
WEAVING HAIR FOR WATERFALLS AND BOWS
Prepare the same as above, and place the strand under No. 1, over Nos. 2 and 3, around under Nos. 3 and 2, over No. 1, around under Nos. 1 and 2, over No. 3, around under No. 3, and over Nos. 2 and 1. Aside from these changes, follow directions given above.
In making a Chignon, you have first to make the cushion. Take the combings or waste hair, which is of no other use, and place it between the cards or stiff brushes, the same as for weaving. Use the weaving apparatus, with two piping cords, instead of three small ones, and wind the hair all up, by passing over, between and under the cords. Boil and dry it, and then pull out the cord, which leaves it all crimped, ready to weave, according to directions on page [239]. Then sew it on a cord, the same as a switch, and form it in any shape you desire, for a Waterfall, Bow or Puffs. This completes the cushion. Then weave the long hair for the covering, according to directions on page [243], and sew it to the top end of the cushion; comb it out smooth, cover the cushion, and tie a cord around it immediately at the bottom; then bring up the end of the hair, and pin it to the inside. Cut No. 1 is intended to represent the cushion, and No. 2 the complete Waterfall.