[CHAPTER XVII.]

War—The American Forces Victorious—" Home Again"—Italy in Sight The "City of Palaces"—Beauty of the Genoese Women—The "Stub-Hunters"—Among the Palaces—Gifted Guide—Church Magnificence—"Women not Admitted"—How the Genoese Live—Massive Architecture—A Scrap of Ancient History—Graves for 60,000

[CHAPTER XVIII.]

Flying Through Italy—Marengo—First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral—Description of some of its Wonders—A Horror Carved in Stone——An Unpleasant Adventure—A Good Man—A Sermon from the Tomb—Tons of Gold and Silver—Some More Holy Relics—Solomon's Temple

[CHAPTER XIX]

"Do You Wiz zo Haut can be?"—La Scala—Petrarch and Laura—Lucrezia Borgia—Ingenious Frescoes—Ancient Roman Amphitheatre—A Clever Delusion—Distressing Billiards—The Chief Charm of European Life—An Italian Bath—Wanted: Soap—Crippled French—Mutilated English—The Most Celebrated Painting in the World—Amateur Raptures—Uninspired Critics—Anecdote—A Wonderful Echo—A Kiss for a Franc

[CHAPTER XX.]

Rural Italy by Rail—Fumigated, According to Law—The Sorrowing Englishman—Night by the Lake of Como—The Famous Lake—Its Scenery—Como compared with Tahoe—Meeting a Shipmate

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


[1. THE QUAKER CITY IN A STORM—FRONTPIECE]
[2. ILLUMINATED TITLE-PAGE-THE PILGRIM'S VISION]
[27. RINGING FOR SOAP]
[28. "WINE, SIR!"]
[29. THE PILGRIM]
[30. THE PRISONER]
[31. HOMELESS FRANCE]
[32. RAILROAD OFFICIAL IN FRANCE]
[33. "FIVE MINUTES FOR REFRESHMENTS"—AMERICA]
[34. "THIRTY MINUTES FOR DINNER"—FRANCE]
[35. THE OLD TRAVELLER]
[36. A DECIDED SHAVE]
[37. A GAS-TLY SUBSTITUTE]
[38. THE THREE GUIDES ]
[39. "ZE SILK MAGAZIN"]
[40. RETURN IN WAR PAINT]
[41. NAPOLEON III]
[42. ABDUL AZIZ]
[43. THE MORGUE]
[44. WE TOOK A WALK]
[45. THE CAN-CAN ]
[46. GRAVES OF ABELARD AND HELOISE]
[47. A PAIR OF CANONS OF 13TH CENTURY]
[48. THE PRIVATE MARRIAGE]
[49. AMERICAN DRINKS]
[50. ROYAL HONORS TO A YANKEE]
[51. THE GRISETTE]
[52. FOUNTAIN AT VERSAILLES]
[53. WOMEN OF GENOA]
[54. PETRIFIED LACKEY]
[55. PRIEST AND FRIAR ]
[56. STATUE OF COLUMBUS]
[57. GRAVES OF SIXTY THOUSAND]
[58. ROOF AND SPIRES OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN]
[59. CENTRAL DOOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN]
[60. INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL AT MILAN ]
[61. BOYHOOD EXPERIENCE]
[62. TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL]
[63. CATHEDRAL AT MILAN]
[64. LA SCALA THEATRE]
[65. COPYING FROM OLD MASTERS]
[66. FACIAL EXPRESSION]
[67. TILE ECHO]
[68. NOTE BOOK]
[69. A KISS FOR A FRANC]
[70. THE FUMIGATION ]
[71. LAKE COMO]
[72. GARDEN, LAKE COMO]