The usual roof-tree was soon found in the via Ripetta, where their back windows overlooked the tawny Tiber and gave them views of Castle St. Angelo and St. Peter's dome glorified by each day's setting sun, and here was passed their winter in old Rome. The Eternal City's ruins were most interesting to Cooper; it was his special delight to ride for hours with some friend over the Campagna, lingering among fragments of structures or statues of ancient days. Perhaps none who rode with him gave him more pleasure than the famous Polish poet, Adam Mickieowicz,—a man full of originality,
genius, and sadness for the fate of his lost country. All of this won Cooper's sympathy and help in zealous writing and speaking for the suffering Poles; and one, Count Truskalaskie Wuskalaskia, later on found a welcome at Otsego Hall.
Our author also saw something of social Rome, as is noted: He "was at a grand ball—faultless as to taste and style"—given by a prince to a prince near to the royal family of England. Of compatriots he writes: "We have had a dinner, too, in honor of Washington, at which I had the honor to preside. You will be surprised to hear that we sat down near seventy Yankees in the Eternal City!"
"The Water Witch," now nearly finished,