Historic Homes of New England

by Mary Harrod Northend

The estate is situated on the western side of the main road of what was then known as Mead's Ford, from which the town of Medford derived its name. It was owned by John Winthrop between 1641 and 1645, becoming the property of his son, John Winthrop, Jr., after this period. It was purchased of the Winthrops by Mrs. Elizabeth Lidgett, who made it over to her son Charles. He, however, being an adherent of Andros, was ordered to leave the province, together with the unpopular governor.

The house at that time was two and one half stories in height, with dormer windows in the attic. There were two rooms on each floor, and the dimensions over all were eighteen by forty-five feet, the west, north, and south walls being of brick.

Lieutenant-governor John Usher, brother-in-law of Colonel Lidgett, came into possession of the house through the entanglement of its owner in lawsuits. During his possession he enlarged it by building a lean-to on the west side, leaving the original brick wall to form a partition between the eastern and western rooms.

By careful inspection of this brick work on the south side of the building, one can follow the original outline of the gable end. There is a little window in the lean-to, differing in finish from the two others above it and yet not in line with them. This directs the attention to the second period in the evolution of this historic mansion.

Lieutenant-governor Usher was Councilor and Treasurer of Massachusetts under Andros. He married the daughter of Peter Lidgett, and later on married for a second wife the daughter of George Allen, who bought the New Hampshire grants from the heirs of Mason. This home on the Mystic was a favorite resort of the Tories but the last of the governor's life was surrounded by business troubles and lawsuits, in which he was most unsuccessful. In fact, before his death, he put his farm out of his own control, the deed to be returned to his widow at the time of his death.

In 1732, nine years later, Isaac Royall, who owned a large plantation in Antigua in the Leeward Islands, a man of considerable means, purchased the estate, and it has since borne his name. At the time of its purchase it embraced five hundred and four and three quarters acres and twenty-three rods of land, and the house and grounds were bought for £10,230 10s. 9d.

Isaac Royall was a wealthy man; he brought to the estate twenty-seven slaves, for whom he paid as head-tax, five pounds each, the slaves acting as his body servants and coachmen. Immediately work was started on remodelling the whole building, and it took five years to complete it. The house was made three stories high throughout. Barns were laid out; the slave quarters and summer-house were built, and a high wall enclosed the grounds from the highway. This was broken by a low wall and a fence that ran directly in front of the house. In those days an elm-shaded driveway led from the main road to a paved courtyard that was on the west side of the house, its picturesqueness enhanced by flower-bordered walks that reached from the mansion on the west to the summer-house, and on the east to the road.

The house was clapboarded on the north side, panelled and embellished with hand-carving, on the garden side, while the street front was not greatly changed. It is to-day in fine repair and probably contains the only slave quarters to be found in Massachusetts. There is still to be seen in the interior the original fireplace where the slaves did their cooking; the brick portion of this was built in 1732, while the wooden part is much older. An arch of masonry underneath the fireplace is one of the largest in existence and is used as a support for this portion of the building.

At the west of the house is an extensive courtyard with a foundation of cobblestones. Here, in olden days, Royall's chariot, the only one north of Boston, with four horses, would come rolling up to the side door to leave the guests. This led to the erroneous idea that the western side of the house was the front.

The Royalls were descended from William Royall, who came to Salem with Governor Craddock; during the time he lived here it was a rallying place for social life, no one of importance riding by without alighting. It was the scene of many a merrymaking and was the show place of the town.