When the paste and the butter are perfectly cold lay the paste on the slab, place the cake of butter in the center, and fold the paste over it, first on the sides, and then the ends. The paste should be long enough to fold the end pieces entirely across the cake of butter. Roll it out into a strip three times longer than broad. Rolling is made easier by lightly pounding as well as rolling the paste. Keep the edges even, and finish by having the corners square and the whole of uniform thickness. Fold the strip twice, making three even layers, and place it on the ice again, wrapped in a napkin, to prevent it from gathering moisture. When it is entirely cold, roll it out again and fold it in the same way. Strike the edges to keep the folds from separating, and turn the paste so as to roll it in the opposite direction from the previous time. Endeavor to keep the edges straight and corners square, so the layers will be even. After each folding and rolling, it is said to have one “turn,” and the pastry is not finished until it has had six to eight turns. The rolling becomes more difficult as the layers get thinner, and great care must be used not to let the butter break through. This will happen if it is not kept very cold; so, unless the rolling is done in a very cold room, it is safer to put it on the ice after each turn. If the butter shows signs of coming through, cover the spot with flour, and set it away at once.
The paste should also be very cold when cut into shapes, so that the edges will not stick together; and again, it should be very cold before being put into the oven.
The oven should be hot. A simple test of the heat is to place a piece of writing-paper in the oven for ten minutes. If at the end of that time the paper is a light yellow, the heat is right for vol-au-vent and large pieces. If it is a light-brown color, it is about the heat used for baking bread, and is right for patty-shells.
After a little practice the making of puff-paste becomes an easy matter. The rolling need not be done all in one day, for if the paste is kept dry and cold, and not allowed to form a crust, it will keep for several days. So many high-class dishes can be made of puff-paste, it is desirable to accomplish the art of making it.
JAM TART
Tart cases may be prepared the same as vol-au-vent cases, page 71, except that the paste should be rolled not more than half an inch thick when ready to be cut; or, instead of cutting the border in the paste, as for vol-au-vents, a strip of paste one inch wide may be laid around the edge. The strips should be cut diagonally on the ends, and these edges moistened so they will stick together where joined. Lay the strip carefully around the slightly moistened border of the bottom piece, paint the top with egg, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes. Remove carefully the top of the center, and take out any uncooked paste, return it to the oven to dry the inside.
Before using, heat the tart again to make it crisp, and when cool spread the inside with a layer of any kind of jam or preserved fruit, put on the center piece, which was taken off to get out the uncooked paste, and cover the entire center with jam. Serve it on a lace paper.
TARTLET SHELLS
Use puff-paste trimmings. Roll the paste thin, shape it to the pans, being careful to press the paste as little as possible. Trim the edges with a sharp knife. Put a piece of paper in the bottom of each one, and fill the tartlet cases with dried peas, beans, or rice, and bake in a hot oven ten to fifteen minutes. When well browned, remove the filling, being particularly careful, if rice is used, that every grain is picked off the crusts. Return the shells to the oven for a minute to dry the insides.
These shells can be kept for some time, but should be freshened before using by being heated again. Fill them, just before serving, with any kind of jam or preserve, or with any freshly stewed fruits, or with creamed minced meat.