The producing of fine, handmade underwear, waists, and dresses is another opportunity for girls who can take but a short time in which to prepare to earn their living. Work of this character is of a much higher grade than that of the wholesale finishing, and demands the ability to do extremely good hand and machine work. The worker must be able to handle the finest kind of materials and to do the most intricate work, such as hand tucking, setting in lace, and trimmings.
Although the course in the Vocational Section trains for specific branches, it is very necessary that all dressmaking students should have experience in these lines in order to be better prepared for the actual dressmaking. If, however, a girl has the ability to do the work of these classes, she is allowed to skip either one or both of them.
Course of work in the Shop for Gymnasium and Swimming Suits: The students are drilled for one or two months in putting garments together, stitching, and finishing. As but two kinds of garments are made, speed is acquired and a certain amount of accuracy is gained through much repetition. Definite arrangements have been made through wholesale houses for the disposition of the product. The materials are furnished by the school. The price is that of trade.
(1) Articles: Swimming suits (patented), bathing suits, and gymnasium suits. (2) Materials used: Cotton, wool, worsted.
Course of work in White Work Class: The previous training having been a general one for accuracy, speed, and the mastery over mind and hand, attention is now given for two and one-half or three months to fine detail work and the handling and keeping fresh and clean of the daintiest of cotton goods. The materials are furnished by the school and the work is sold to customers at trade prices.
(1) Principles: Hand-tucking, rolling and whipping, mitering corners, overhanding trimming, inserting lace and embroidery by hand and machine, fine featherstitching, and white hand embroidery. (2) Garments for stock and order; fine underwear, waists, and baby clothes. (3) Material used: cotton.
III. Trade Section—The Business Shop. Trade demands skilled workers, and preference is given to those who have had practical training. The trade section aims to add experience to skill by offering the students the actual work and conditions demanded in the outside market. The general scheme is the one in use in moderate-sized dressmaking establishments.
The workroom has its tables devoted to separate kinds of work, the students obtain a definite amount of knowledge from each experience, and pass from one to the other as rapidly as their ability to grasp the principles will permit. Each division is in charge of an instructor with practical trade experience, who prepares and supervises the work and also does the skilled parts which the students, on account of their lack of experience, are unable to do.
The girls are not taught cutting, fitting, and draping, as trade would not permit a sixteen-year-old girl to attempt this work on account of her lack of judgment and experience; but they have the opportunity to see and assist in the preparation of work. No girl in the trade shop will make a complete garment, but she will have worked upon all parts many times.
Custom orders supply the shop with work. The customers are interviewed, measurements are taken, estimates are given, and dates for fittings are planned. The information obtained is recorded upon blanks prepared for the purpose. The materials are purchased, the garments cut, and the different parts (skirts, waists, sleeves) are delivered to the tables where such work is done. Blanks are provided for the recording of all materials used for customers' work, and from these the bills are made out in the main office. Stock is obtained from the storerooms on signed requisitions only. The stock clerk measures and delivers the materials and notes the amount withdrawn on each package.