The right of Translation is reserved.

[CHAPTER I.]
SUNDAY AT TOURS—LA COLONIE DE METTRAY—BEAUTIFUL DORDOGNE—AFRENCH PARSONAGE—THROUGH THE LANDES—THESOPORIFIC EFFECTS OF ARCACHON[1]
[CHAPTER II.]
THE MISCONCEPTIONS OF LUGGAGE—THE COMFORTS OF SPANISHRAILWAY TRAVELLING—OUR LIBRARY—FROM THE TROPICSTO THE STEPPES—GREGORIA AND ISIDORA—JOURNEY TOMADRID[24]
[CHAPTER III.]
THE GAIETY OF MADRID—THE IMPERATIVENESS OF TEETOTALISMTHERE—THE QUEEN AND THE ROYAL BIRTHDAY—ROADS ANDRIVER-BANKS—APROPOS OF BULLS[41]
[CHAPTER IV.]
VELASQUEZ, THE PAINTER OF MEN—MURILLO, THE PAINTER OFANGELS—RIBERA, THE PAINTER OF INQUISITORS—ZURBARAN,THE PAINTER OF MONKS—GOJA, THE HOFFMANN OF SPANISHART—THE QUIETUDE OF THE GALLERIES[63]
[CHAPTER V.]
A LEAR OF CITIES—GOTHIC, ROMAN, AND MOORISH REMAINS—COMMENTARIESON STREET’S GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE AND ON TOLEDANLANDLORDS—TILES, AND A DISCOURSE THEREON[81]
[CHAPTER VI.]
A MIDNIGHT HALT—ITS CHARMS AND COUNTER-CHARMS—DONQUIXOTE’S COUNTRY—THE SLEEP AT CORDOVA—WE WAKEIN THE EAST—SHOPPING[108]
[CHAPTER VII.]
“THE SWEETEST MORSEL OF THE PENINSULA”—COB-WALLS ORTHE HOUSE THAT CAIN BUILT—PALMS—THE GOOD WORKS OFTHE SISTERS—THE PRIESTS AND THE PEOPLE—IS SPAINUTOPIA?[134]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
“A BOAT, A BOAT, MY KINGDOM FOR A BOAT!”—THE VICTIMS OF ATUNNY-FISH—SENOR BENSAKEN SPEAKS HIS MIND, AND WEARE REPROVED—RUNNING WATERS—HOWLINGS OF TARSHISH—PEPA’SFAMILY[158]
[CHAPTER IX.]
DAYS IN THE ALHAMBRA—THE GRANDEUR WITHOUT AND THEBEAUTY WITHIN—“CIELED WITH CEDAR, AND PAINTED WITHVERMILION”—AZULEJOS AND ARTESONADOS—MR. OWEN JONES’HANDBOOK[175]
[CHAPTER X.]
PIGS, VULGAR AND ARISTOCRATIC—THE GIPSY CAPTAIN BEWITCHESUS—WE GO DOWN TO THE POTTER’S HOUSE—A FAMILY DANCE—ANAWFUL DISCOVERY—A BOOKSELLER OF TARSHISH[187]
[CHAPTER XI.]
THE ARCHBISHOP BLESSES THE ENGINE, AND WE HELP HIM—DELIGHTFULLOJA—A FUNNY DINNER—STARLIGHT, TWILIGHT,MORNING[209]
[CHAPTER XII.]
WE GET TO ALGECIRAS, AND ARE MADE WRETCHED—THE FATSPANIARD AND THE LEAN ENGLISHMAN—A RED-LETTER DAYAT GIBRALTAR—THE LIGHTS—ADIEU TO EUROPE[222]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
A BRIDAL PARTY—HORRIBLE STORIES—A LONG DAY—THE CAIDAND THE DRIVER—A NEW ATMOSPHERE—TCLEMCEN[239]
[CHAPTER XIV.]
TCLEMCEN, THE GRANADA OF THE WEST—ARAB POETS—THECHILDREN—THE MOKBARA—SIDI BOU MEDIN—MANSOURA—PHILO-ARABES—TEMPTATIONSIN TCLEMCEN[253]
[CHAPTER XV.]
HOSPITABLE ORAN—CHRISTMAS DAY AT LE SIG—THE LAST OF THEPHALANSTERIANS—BARRAGES—THE MALARIA—ABD-EL-KADER’SMOSQUE—SAIDA[270]
[CHAPTER XVI.]
OPINIONS, CIVIL AND MILITARY—A LOOK TOWARDS THE SAHARA—WILDGEESE—OUR SPAHIS, AND THE CARE THEY TAKE OF US—ANORMANDY APPLE-ORCHARD IN AFRICA—NEW YEAR’SDAY[287]
[CHAPTER XVII.]
RAIN—HOW TO CARRY ONE’S WARDROBE—AN ENGLISH LADY’SOPINIONS ON THE ARABS—WILD BIRDS—THE EARTHQUAKE[304]

CHAPTER I.

SUNDAY AT TOURS.—LA COLONIE DE METTRAY.—BEAUTIFUL DORDOGNE.—A FRENCH PARSONAGE.—THROUGH THE LANDES.—THE SOPORIFIC EFFECTS OF ARCACHON.