“I don’t think we have, Señora,” she replied; “I’ll see by-and-by.”

“Have you chocolate?” I asked, when the by-and-by had come.

“I don’t think we have, Señora,” was the answer a second time; “I’ll see by-and-by.”

I waited a little while, and then repeated the question, always in the politest way possible. This time I added that the Señora with me was very tired, and sadly in need of refreshment, and that if there was chocolate to be had I should be very much obliged.

“The mistress of the Fonda is gone to bed, and I don’t know where she keeps the chocolate,” was the reply this time; ‘but I have sent to hear, and if there is any you shall be served.’

About two hours from the time of my first inquiry came two delicious little cups of chocolate, which, I am sure, we should never have got except by means of patience and pretty speeches. The traveller who has not a goodly supply of both these things would, I fear, fare very ill. After a time the sleepers woke up, and began to talk in very lively fashion. A smart young lady, who seemed to belong to the station, soon came in, wished everybody “buenas noches,” and sat down, evidently with the intention of being amused. The young lady and her maid did not hold aloof from the conversation, the grave-looking guard joined in occasionally, and the two English ladies were not excluded.

The young women, who wore black silk mantillas, and chignons as large as cocoa-nuts, were immensely inquisitive about English ladies in general, and ourselves in particular. When we had satisfied their curiosity, we talked of Cosas de España, mantillas, fans, bull-fights, &c.

“Now, tell me,” I said to the young lady belonging to the station, “do you really like bull-fights or no? I have never heard the opinion of a Spanish lady on the subject.”

“That is, because foreigners make such a fuss about bull-fights,” she replied, archly; “people are afraid to speak their minds about it. For my part, I own that the sight is a horrid one, but it amuses me.”

“It don’t amuse me,” put in one girl; “I get sick and frightened, and want to come away.”