[AT MADEIRA--FUNCHAL ROAD]
A small ledge of rocks, which projected a little from under the cliffs at the south-west part of Bujio, afforded a landing place; but it was impossible to ascend the top of the island. We saw no other animated beings than a few birds something like green linnets, but which were said, at Madeira, to have been canary birds; and the other productions were scarcely sufficient to afford amusement even to a naturalist. The cliffs over head showed marks of irregular stratification, and in some of the lines there was a red tinge, apparently of iron. The base underneath was black and honey-combed, as if it had been in the fire, resembling in this respect the common stone at Funchal.
We left Bujio well satisfied that, so far as we could judge of the islands, the name Dezertas, or Desert Islands, was well chosen; and soon after dusk, reached the ship. There was then a good breeze from the north-eastward, with which we steered for Madeira. tacking occasionally during the night, to take advantage of the different flaws of wind. At the following noon [MONDAY 3 AUGUST], the ship was under Brazen Head, which forms the east side of Funchal Road; and being there becalmed, we towed in with the boats, and came to an anchor at four o'clock, in 22 fathoms, steadying with a kedge to the north-west. In this situation, which seems to be as good as any in the road, the bearings by compass were as follow:
Brazen Head, S. 71° E.
Punta de Cruz, on the west side, N. 85 W.
Loo Fort, distant one-third of a mile, N. 12 W.
The north-east winds usually prevail at Madeira in the summer season, and sometimes blow very strong. To reach Funchal Read, ships are accustomed to sail between the east end of Madeira and the Dezertas, before the wind. They are not very desirous of passing close to Brazen Head, where they would be becalmed, but keep off a mile or two, in the skirt of the north-east wind, until they are off the town, or even off Punta de Cruz, where they generally find a breeze from the south-west, which takes them to the anchorage. This south-west wind is the sea breeze of Funchal; and during the time we lay in the road, it usually set in at eight or nine o'clock in the morning, and prevailed as far as three or four miles in the offing, till sunset. A variable breeze comes off the land in the night; at which time it is recommended to ships to pass close to Brazen Head and tow into the road.
We found his Majesty's ship Argo lying here; and I waited upon captain James Bowen, immediately that the ship was secured. Lieutenant Flinders was sent, at the same time, to present my respects to the Portuguese governor, and to ask his Excellency's permission to purchase the necessaries of which we stood in need; as also for the scientific gentlemen to make such an examination of the natural productions of the island, as our short stay would allow. The first request was granted by the governor in polite terms, and accompanied with offers of assistance; but an answer to the second was deferred until he should see me.
This evening the ship was heeled three streaks, when it was found that she admitted more than three inches of water per hour; whereas, when upright, it scarcely amounted to one inch. Next morning [TUESDAY 4 AUGUST], therefore, the carpenters began caulking two seams above the copper, all round, whilst the seamen were employed in shifting the top masts and examining the rigging.
By the assistance of Joseph Pringle, Esq., the British consul, I procured boats from the shore to be sent for our empty water casks; and an ox was killed for our use, and wine prepared for embarkation. His Excellency, the governor, had appointed noon of this day to receive my visit; and I waited upon him in form, accompanied by the consul, who interpreted between us. The governor repeated his offers of assistance; and on being made to understand the nature of the excursions which our gentlemen desired to make into the country, he granted his permission with the utmost readiness. After I had answered some questions relative to the settlement of political affairs in the north of Europe, we took our leave; and were attended out by the officers in waiting, and saluted by the guard.
THURSDAY 6 AUGUST 1801.
On the 6th in the evening, our supply of provisions was received, and the caulking of the ship completed. The scientific gentlemen returned from an expedition towards the Pico Ruivo; which is the highest of a ridge of mountains occupying the central parts of the island, and is said to be 5067 feet, or nearly an English mile, above the level of the sea. The ascent was found to be very difficult; and this, with the heat of the weather and limitation of their time to this evening, disabled them from reaching the summit. It was late when they arrived at the shore; and in embarking abreast of the town, they had the misfortune to be swamped, and to lose the greater part of their collections and sketches, although the boat was managed by Portuguese watermen, accustomed to the place.