A raffia warp
Some teachers splice the warp with a weaver's knot, an illustration of which can be seen in any large dictionary. The continuous string is to be preferred, however, as experience has proved that even a weaver's knot will sometimes fail to stand the stress of weaving. It is very difficult to splice a warp of raffia. It is better to knot the warp threads in pairs (see directions, page 46), leaving two or three inches beyond the head and foot. These ends may be used for a fringe by tearing very fine, or they may be run down in the woven part with a darning needle, as rattan is run down in basket work.
To fasten wool or silk warp strings
When the warp is correct
When the weaving is done and the mat lifted from the loom, the ends of the wool warp strings can be run in along the sides with a tape needle. If the warp be of twine, it is better to tie the end to the next warp string and allow the fringe to cover the knot; or, as in the case of silkoline, the woof strips can be caught over the warp strings with silk of the same color in order to hide them. Only experience can teach the tightness with which a warp should be strung. Worsted, carpet thread and twine will stretch as the work progresses, and raffia will not. If the warp be too loose the work will be uneven and the strings will slip out of the notches. If it be too tight it will be difficult to finish the last two or three inches and the woof threads will look crowded. The best test is to place the hand upon the warp before commencing to weave. If it feels firm and does not push down too easily, but springs slightly beneath the hand, it is probably correct.
To string a warp for fringe
To string the warp threads in pairs
Where the warp is of the same material as the woof and it is desired to extend it to form a fringe, it can be done in the following manner: After the loom is adjusted for the size required, cut the warp strings so as to allow two or three inches beyond the head and foot pieces. If you intend to knot the fringe in some fanciful way after the weaving is finished, allow four or five inches. Take two threads, knot so as to leave the required length for fringe below the foot piece, then pass around one or two teeth, as the case may be, draw tightly to the head piece and knot firmly on the upper side, leaving a fringe of the same length there. Knot the strings in pairs in this way until the whole warp is strung. It will be noticed that the rods are placed beneath the notches of odd numbers. In knotting warp strings in pairs it will be found necessary, when the last tooth is reached, to do one of two things—either allow one string to lie beyond the rod, or, having strung the warp within one tooth of the rod, to start the next string in the same notch, bringing the two strings together. This will bring one string on top of the rod and none beyond. In the first case, the string beyond the rod must be taken up in weaving with the one on top of the rod. Experience has proved the second method to be the better one.
Double warp for Turkish rugs, etc., with fringe
Kiz-Kilim rugs have perforated or open-work patterns. To produce this effect string a double warp through every notch in the foot and head pieces; that is, use two strings in each notch, tying in pairs for fringe as before. Use a brownish white carpet thread. With strong black thread string through every other notch to outline perpendicular sides of squares in the pattern. Your warp will be strung three-sixteenths inch, but the black threads will be three-eighths inch. This will enable you to keep the patterns straight as the work progresses.