In splicing such materials as silkoline, rags, candle-wicking, chenille, and macremé cord, lay the end of one piece over another, each lapping about one-quarter inch, and sew securely with silk or thread of like color. Cut off the selvedge ends of rags. These strips can be run past each other, but the work will not be so smooth.
Germantown wool, heavy worsteds, and rope silk
In splicing Germantown wool, heavy worsteds, or rope silk, thread a worsted needle with one strand obtained by unwinding the wool or silk, lay one end over the other, and sew over and over. Twist the part just sewn between the thumb and finger and the splicing will be hardly visible.
When weaving stripes, splice the wool so that the piecing will come on top of the rod. In this way the new color will start at the edge of the rug, as it should, and the number of loops on the rod will be the same on each side. Consider the under side of the weaving as the right side. It is always smoother and cleaner, and the splicing can be done more neatly on top of the rod.
Raffia
Splicing raffia is the most difficult of all, and the method used in braiding and basket weaving is the best. As you near the end of a strip in weaving it usually becomes narrower. Find another strip having a narrow end, and place one over the other, securing, if necessary, by winding a very narrow piece—just a thread torn from a long piece—and fastening this by sewing a few times over and over. Or, the two narrow ends may be run past each other, as in carpet ravelings. Care should be taken to have the splicing the same width as the other parts of the weaving, so that the spliced parts will not be noticeable.
Leather, leatherette, and celluloid strips
Leather, leatherette, and celluloid strips should be long enough to extend the entire width and length of the frame without splicing. The ends can be cut, as is done in paper weaving, or turned in some pretty way like that in the splint work.