Twentieth Century Culture and Deportment / Or the Lady and Gentleman at Home and Abroad; Containing Rules of Etiquette for All Occasions, Including Calls; Invitations; Parties; Weddings; Receptions; Dinners and Teas; Etiquette of the Street; Public Places, Etc., Etc. Forming a Complete Guide to Self-Culture; the Art of Dressing Well; Conversation; Courtship; Etiquette for Children; Letter-Writing; Artistic Home and Interior Decorations, Etc.

by Maud C. Cooke

This question has but one answer, “Never by daylight.” In this respect the rule that governs the wearing of a man’s dress suit—“from dusk to dawn,” is applicable. Even on those occasions when the jealous daylight is shut out and candlelight reigns, dress suits and full décolleté gowns are not permissible. A concession can be made by cutting the corsage a little low in the throat, and by elbow sleeves or almost no sleeves.

For every social function held from midday to a late dinner hour, young girls, especially, should wear their gowns cut high with long sleeves, except on some gala occasion, when the rule may be somewhat relaxed as above.

Even at balls, evening parties, late dinners, the young girl’s evening dress, if décolleté, should be very modest in cut. Where a dinner and dance follow a large afternoon reception and the men who are invited are apt to arrive at dinner in full evening dress, a girl’s dress may be somewhat elaborated, but not to the extreme of ball costume.

Ball Dress.

For the ball-room the most elaborate dress is to be worn; décolleté corsage, flowers and jewels are all appropriate. Those who dance should wear pale colors and light, floating fabrics, leaving the heavy silks and velvets for those who do not indulge in this amusement.

A low-cut corsage is not expected of elderly women unless they wish it. Chaperons can wear an elegant dinner dress if they desire; velvets or brocades, cut square in the neck, with a profusion of fine lace and rich ornaments. In short, she should be as different as possible from her charge.

If an elderly woman of full figure wears a low-necked dress, a lace scarf or something of that sort should be thrown over her shoulders.

Gowns cut dancing length or with train, are appropriate for the ball-room, but where much dancing is to be indulged in, trains are very much in the way.

Opera Dress.

For the opera the most elegant dressing is desirable. Ladies may wear evening gowns, and men dress suits. If they occupy boxes this is almost an obligation. Light colors render the house more attractive—are, in fact, a part of the whole spectacle. Jewels and flowers are there, and those who wear visiting or street costume are in the minority.