Twentieth Century Culture and Deportment / Or the Lady and Gentleman at Home and Abroad; Containing Rules of Etiquette for All Occasions, Including Calls; Invitations; Parties; Weddings; Receptions; Dinners and Teas; Etiquette of the Street; Public Places, Etc., Etc. Forming a Complete Guide to Self-Culture; the Art of Dressing Well; Conversation; Courtship; Etiquette for Children; Letter-Writing; Artistic Home and Interior Decorations, Etc.

by Maud C. Cooke

By not carefully distinguishing between the gowns for different occasions and over-dressing at all times, women lose all the advantages of contrast in style. If lace and silk are worn indiscriminately, what is there left for the full dress function?

Walking Dress.

This should be plain—tailor-made is the best—walking length, and of good material. “Fussy” styles should not be chosen for street wear, and the hat or bonnet should be rather plain and harmonize with the gown.

Carriage Dress.

There is much more latitude for display permitted by the carriage dress. Rich materials, elegant wraps, costly furs, are all allowable here.

Coaching parties, too, have grown to be occasions for most gorgeous costuming. Every hue of the rainbow is to be seen as the lofty tally-ho rolls past, until, so great has become the license of color and richness of material, that the “four hundred” are calling a halt, and soberer tints are beginning to mark this amusement.

Do not wear too many fluttering ribbons, especially if occupying that coveted position—the box seat. It does not add to the skill and accuracy of the driver at a critical moment to have a fluttering ribbon cut like a whip-lash across his eyes.

Dress for Lent.

This should be the sort of gown most appropriate and becoming to the attitude of repentance. The gowns, of course, are simple, quiet affairs. Symphonies in gray, poems in black and white, must, says one writer, “reflect in their construction as well as color the soberness of the event which they will grace. A train is always admissible for the Lenten robe—that is, if it is for house wear. Otherwise the skirt must be short—quite short enough, indeed, to give one’s churchwomen a glimpse of a dainty gray or black walking boot.”

Any of the heliotrope, mauve or pansy shades, also, are appropriate expressions of the sorrow of the fashionable woman, thus giving a color scheme capable of the most exquisite effects. White cashmere is well suited for the house; and very little draperies, but long, straight lines, give the sought-after effect, and thus the dainty chrysalis rests during the forty days that precede the unfolding of the gorgeous wings of the Easter butterfly.