CONTENTS

PAGE
[I.][The Thorn in Spain’s Side] [1]
[II.][A Sibyl of Ronda][27]
[III.][The White Veil][58]
[IV.][The Black Veil][82]
[V.][Seville Fair][109]
[VI.][A House in Seville][136]
[VII.][Cordova][166]
[VIII.][Granada][195]
[IX.][Tangiers][217]
[X.][Madrid][251]
[XI.][The Prado][279]
[XII.][Carnival][300]
[XIII.][Toledo][315]
[XIV.][The Bride Comes][343]
[XV.][The King’s Wedding][364]
[XVI.][Wedding Guests][373]
[XVII.][Hasta Otra Vista][393]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[The Arab Quarter, Tangiers.][COLORED FRONTISPIECE]
PAGE
[Our Lady of O., Seville][58]
[Seville Cathedral][64]
[Entrance to Court of Oranges, Seville][68]
[The Sculptor Martinez Montanes][72]
In the Prado Museum.
[Portrait of Montanes’ Son][72]
In the Prado Museum.
[Portrait of Philip II. Coello][85]
In the possession of John Elliott.
[Portrait of Velasquez, by Himself. Detail of“Las Meninas”][96]
In the Prado Museum.
[Portrait of His Wife. Velasquez][96]
In the Prado Museum.
[The Giralda, Seville][107]
[Bull-Fighters][122]
[Spanish Gypsies][122]
[St. Joseph and the Infant Jesus. Murillo][164]
In the Provincial Museum, Seville.
[The Guardian Angel. Murillo][164]
In the Cathedral, Seville.
[The Mosque, Cordova][167]
[The Mosque, Cordova][188]
[La Puerta del Sol, Toledo][188]
[Gate of Justice, Alhambra. In color][195]
[Court of Lions, The Alhambra][196]
[Garden of the Generalife, Granada][196]
[Window, Tower of the Captive, Alhambra][199]
[Gypsies of Granada][203]
[La Puerto del Vino, Granada][207]
[A Court of the Alhambra][207]
[Retablo, Carved in High and Low Relief. Roldan][211]
[Moorish Columns in the Alhambra][214]
[Tangiers. In color][218]
[Street in Tangiers][226]
[Spanish Peasants][232]
[Ali and Zuleika][232]
[Detail from “The Maids of Honor.” Velasquez][259]
In the Prado Museum.
[Detail from “The Surrender of Breda.” Velasquez][279]
In the Prado Museum.
[The Tipplers. Velasquez][282]
In the Prado Museum.
[The Duke of Olivares. Velasquez][285]
In the Prado Museum.
[Venus and Cupid. Velasquez][288]
National Museum.
[Don Baltasar Carlos. Velasquez][291]
In the Prado Museum.
[Detail from “Moses.” Murillo][300]
In the Prado Museum.
[Detail from “Moses.” Murillo][308]
In the Prado Museum.
[Toledo by Moonlight. In color][326]
[Detail from “The Burial of Count Orgaz.”Greco][341]
[Villegas in his Studio][376]
[The Spinners. Velasquez][379]
In the Prado Museum.
[The Dogaressa. Villegas][394]
In the possession of Mrs. Larz Anderson.
[The Death of the Matador. Villegas][398]
In the possession of the artist.
[Imperio. Villegas][408]
In the possession of Miss Dorothy Whitney.

SUN AND SHADOW
IN SPAIN

I
THE THORN IN SPAIN’S SIDE

IF€ you will look at the general map of Spain and Portugal, you will see that the outlines of the Peninsula suggest the head of a man—a broad, square head, with a high forehead and plenty of room for a large brain. The profile, lying sharply cut on the blue Atlantic, shows a crest of disordered hair, a slightly swelling forehead, a long, sensitive, aristocratic nose with a sharply cut nostril, firm lips set close together, a fine chin tapering to a small pointed beard, a slight fulness under the chin; the throat, set well back and surrounded by a blue collar—the Straits of Gibraltar—joins the head to the shoulders—the continent of Africa. The more you look at the face, the more certain you become that it is a familiar one, that it is the face of one you hold dear, till at last complete recognition flashes upon you; it is the face of Don Quixote de la Mancha! Look again; it is a face such as Velasquez painted, not once, but many times; it is the typical Spanish face, proud, high-bred, reserved.

So you need not land alone and unwelcomed upon the shore of fabled Hispagna, now looming dim and blue upon the horizon, now growing distinct and green. Two great spirits, Cervantes and Velasquez, come to meet you! Their hands are stretched out to you; if you so elect, they will walk with you in all your wanderings, and with their help you shall know Spain.