Especially, too, am I grateful to Captain von Hirschfeld, District Commissioner of Mangu, who not only showed us personally every hospitality and kindness during visits extending altogether to over a month, but who also went out of his way, at considerable trouble and inconvenience, to help us in filming many subjects, scenes, and incidents of native life, which we should otherwise hardly have been able to secure; his efforts in this latter direction being ably seconded by his two European assistants, Messrs Sonntag and Gardin.
Mr. Muckè, of Bassari, also showed us many kindnesses for which I am sincerely grateful; and my best thanks are likewise due to Herr von Parpart, District Commissioner of Sokode, whose hospitality on our return journey to the coast made our last evening in the African bush an outstandingly pleasant recollection. Mr. James S. Hodgson, our camera man, besides proving himself a first-rate and exceedingly careful operator, kept us lively of an evening by his clever playing on the mandoline, while his imperturbable good-humour, even in the most trying circumstances, helped to make our trip a pleasant and agreeable one.
Finally, I should wish to thank my friend, Mr. C. L. McCluer Stevens, of "Ivydene," New Malden, Surrey, author and journalist, for the skilful and painstaking manner in which he has edited my rough manuscript and put it in trim for the publishers, as well as for valuable advice and help regarding the treatment and scope of the various chapters and the work as a whole.
M. GEHRTS.
London, July 1, 1914.
[CONTENTS]
| [CHAPTER I] | |
| LONDON TO LOME | |
| PAGES | |
| I am "up against" a queer business proposition—Doubts and difficulties—Assent—Major Schomburgk, F.R.G.S., the leader of the expedition—His African experiences—Filming cinema pictures in the tropics—The start from England—Dover to Madeira—Life on board ship—Madeira—Teneriffe—Las Palmas—Motoring under difficulties—Arrival in Togo—"Yellow Jack"—Kindness of H.H. the Duke of Mecklenburg, the Governor of Togoland—A jolly dinner party—Rickshaw riding in Lome—Off to Atakpame | 17–28 |
| [CHAPTER II] | |
| HOW WE FILMED "THE WHITE GODDESS OF THE WANGORA" | |
| A tiresome railway journey—My hut in the forest—A trying toilet—Native inquisitiveness—Haute cuisine in the heart of Africa—Mosquitoes—My first night in the bush—A very primitive shower-bath—Rehearsing our first cinema drama—Savages as "supers"—Irritating delays—A false alarm—Filming the principal scene in the White Goddess—I am knocked up—And laid up—Malarial fever—"If you cough you'll die"—Convalescence—I try cookery—A disconcerting experience—Eating 9863 chickens—A little about lizards—Also about ants and beetles | 29–39 |
| [CHAPTER III] | |
| LIFE AT KAMINA | |
| Troubles of cinema playing in Central Africa—Enforced leisure—Native girls and a gramophone—Women and work—Native children—A negro philosopher—Native servants—Learning to cycle—Improvising a studio—Wild monkeys—Native dances—A perilous climb | 40–48 |
| [CHAPTER IV] | |
| STARTING "ON TREK" | |
| On the march into "the back of beyond"—Packing our "chop boxes"—Quinine—"I didn't want to do it"—The starting of the caravan—Good-bye to Kamina—Kindly forethought of the Duke of Mecklenburg—Our first day's march—Sleeping out in the bush—Rest-houses—Our operator goes astray—Dish-washing extraordinary—Our cook disappears—To return with a wife—I try my hand at bush cooking—"Feed the brute"—A native belle | 49–56 |
| [CHAPTER V] | |
| ATAKPAME TO SOKODE | |
| Our friend the doctor—A new way with natives—Laughable results—And to Njamassila—Travelling by hammock—A rash resolve—Njamassila to Agbandi—Sleeping on the march—A native giant—Agbandi to Djabotaure—Depressing effects of the West African climate—An adventure at Djabotaure—Native festivities on the eve of Ramadam—Djabotaure to Audasi—Incompetent hammock boys—"Sea-sickness" on land—A moonlight night in the bush—Nearing Sokode—Our horses waiting for us in charge of a European—A bush toilet—Arrival in Sokode—Kindly hospitality | 57–68 |
| [CHAPTER VI] | |
| IN THE CAPITAL OF TSCHAUDJOLAND | |
| In camp at Paratau—Uro Djabo, paramount chief of the Tschaudjo—A courtly savage—The Tschaudjo a conquering tribe who came riding on horses from the north—Djabo's palace—His wives—A much-married monarch—His prime minister and attendants—He comes to afternoon tea—A democratic king—Tschaudjo horsemen—An accident—I nearly lose my life—A nervous breakdown—We leave Paratau in a hurry—Kindness of the German Government officials at Sokode—They lend us one hundred carriers—On the road to Aledjo-Kadara, "the Switzerland of Togo" | 69–79 |
| [CHAPTER VII] | |
| ALEDJO-KADARA—THE SWITZERLAND OF TOGO | |
| On the march from Paratau to Aledjo-Kadara—A terrible stage—Doubt and depression—An uphill journey—I feel my health improving—An accident—Native sympathy—Our cook annexes our dining-table—A lovely camp—A thousand yards up and surrounded by mountains—The Switzerland of Togo—Beautiful rest-houses—The harmattan—Grass fires—Filming a drama—Another accident—Nebel and I nearly fall over a precipice—Nebel homesick—He leaves for Europe—Filming the final scene of Odd Man Out—We visit Bafilo, near Aledjo—Great reception by natives for the first white woman—The Uro (king) of Bafilo meets us in state—Torch play to celebrate the finish of Ramadam—More filming—An astonished native—Industrial films—The cotton industry—Trade guilds—Primitive looms and spindles—Making beads from palm nuts—Baboons like dogs and rabbits with feet like elephants | 80–96 |
| [CHAPTER VIII] | |
| AMONG THE BAFILO FOLK | |
| The native market at Bafilo—Native sweetmeats—Cowries as currency—A native barber shaving a baby's head—Togo boys playing at the West African equivalent of pitch and toss—A woman's dance that out-tangos the tango—Native baskets at a farthing apiece—Hyenas—I am nearly bitten by a puff-adder—A leopard—Early stables—Filming again—A glut of supers—A "woman palaver"—One of our people abducts a native girl—His punishment—I read the girl a lecture—But make little impression—"He gave me these"—A drunken native—I intercede for him with his chief—Wild tribes from the Kabre Mountains—Nude but modest—The shy girl and her bag of salt—A native falls in love with me—Beautiful native work—I buy a cloak of native manufacture—Good-bye to Bafilo | 97–107 |
| [CHAPTER IX] | |
| ON THE MARCH ONCE MORE | |
| On trek once more—A disquieting discovery—I am very angry—A long day's journey—I narrowly escape sunstroke—"Wholesome anger a good tonic"—I taste native beer for the first time—And find it both refreshing and sustaining—Antelope spoor—Exchange carriers—First meeting with the Konkombwa—The finest race of savages in Togo—Native dandies—Trouble with our horse boys—They are punished—In the heart of the wilds—European and native rest-houses—Paying our carriers with salt—Schomburgk gets "bushed"—Resents my anxiety—We quarrel—Elephant spoor—I am given my first lesson in wood-craft—Mosquitoes—The yellow-fever breeding anophele—We cross the Kara River—First sight of hippopotami—We strike the Oti, the principal river of Northern Togo | 108–124 |
| [CHAPTER X] | |
| CHRISTMAS AT SANSANE-MANGU | |
| At Mangu—Captain von Hirschfeld—I make an "impression"—Though not the kind I should have liked to have made—"The Place where Warriors Meet"—A brush with the Tschokossi—Captain von Hirschfeld's splendid hospitality—Tamberma Fort—The head tax—-The Mangu plantations—Mangu in the rainy season—Great heat—Terrific thunderstorms—Our Christmas dinner at Mangu—New Year's Eve festivities—We burn three thousand feet of film—Game birds round Mangu—A fishing carnival—Queer native methods—Canoeing on the Oti River—A marvellous shot—Filming in the tropics—More difficulties—The new station at Mangu, and the old one—A striking contrast—The big Mangu "songu"—A gathering of the clans—Trapping a hyena—A plague of bats—Fresh milk and native butter—Ancient records at Mangu | 125–140 |
| [CHAPTER XI] | |
| OUR "FARTHEST NORTH" | |
| Northward from Mangu—Wild savages and poisoned arrows—A treacherous attack and a lucky escape—Different arrow poisons—Grass fires and their drawbacks—Mosquitoes and some yarns about them—Wild natives—The wild Tschokossi women—A new dress every day—Our boys go swimming in a crocodile-infested pool—Our pet monkey gets loose—Searching for hippos—An unreliable guide—Sullen natives—A too-early call—A wonderful game country—In God's big "zoo"—Gorgeous plumaged birds—I want Schomburgk to shoot some for me—He objects—Sun birds and blue jays—Across a yam-field country—A bird sanctuary—Discovery of a flock of marabou—I regret having no gun—The costliest feathers on earth—Our guide loses his way again—Fulani herdsmen—They supply us with fresh milk—Arrival at Sumbu | 141–158 |
| [CHAPTER XII] | |
| AMONG THE SUMBU SAVAGES | |
| At Sumbu—Wild savages—Our boys afraid—Tschokossi refuse to sell us provisions—I enter a village and buy a chicken—Astonishment of the people at their first sight of coined money—I make friends with the children—Lumps of sugar—A new delicacy—The "white honey rock"—I become "chummy" with the chief—He invites me to go over his village with him—I accept the invitation—A unique village—Elaborate precautions against attack—Where did the Tschokossi learn to build these remarkable villages?—"Every village a fortress and every house a fort"—Messa gets scared—And Alfred follows suit—Cleanliness and the "classes"—I try my hand at cheese-making—Our too energetic "washerwoman"—A novel theory of wages—The ugliest chief in Togo—Marriage among the wild Tschokossi—Men's view—A primitive form of eugenics—"Can white women laugh?"—Our boys are boycotted—Native women refuse to cook for them—Salt the only currency—Sleeping "rough"—My boys' anxiety for the safety of their "little white mother"—Messa makes himself putties—His anxiety about his wife—A case of filaria—Dangerous symptoms | 159–182 |
| [CHAPTER XIII] | |
| BACK TO MANGU | |
| An adventure with a puff-adder—Welcome news—"Chief's mail"—Out after hippo—Inexperienced hammock boys—My first sight of hippopotami—I am not impressed—Crocodile island—An extraordinary sight—Birds that pick crocodiles' teeth—Panscheli—Hodgson shoots two hippos—Our boys fetch them from the pool—Cutting up the carcases—A loathsome sight—We break camp—Homeward bound—Huge oyster "middens"—Stalked by savages—A nuit blanche—A leopard—and other things—Bad news—Back in Mangu | 183–197 |
| [CHAPTER XIV] | |
| THROUGH THE KONKOMBWA COUNTRY | |
| At Mangu—The harmattan—A meteorological mystery—Filming ethnological pictures—Building the new Mangu station—Drilling native soldiers—Marriage in the native army—Buying wives—Their market value—Polygamy v. monogamy—Filming Togo history—We reconstruct a big battle—Celebrating the Kaiser's Birthday—We buy a wild ostrich—It escapes—An ostrich hunt on the veldt—Packing up for the downward journey—Horrible discovery—No cigarettes—"Battle-axe" brand v. best Egyptians—Quitting Mangu—On the march to Unyogo—No water—Hodgson has an extraordinary "adventure"—A woman palaver—On to Djereponi—Chameleons—Nambiri—Nothing to eat—A glorious feed—An egg-laying story—In the heart of the Konkombwa country | 198–212 |
| [CHAPTER XV] | |
| NAMBIRI TO TSCHOPOWA | |
| The chief of Nambiri—One of Nature's gentlemen—Killing the fatted calf—Pretty Konkombwa villages—The Konkombwa and the Dagomba—Elaborate head-dresses of the Konkombwa men—Konkombwa women—A domestic row—Wonderful recuperative powers of savages—Konkombwa dances—A wonderful performance—Studies in facial expression—Distributing kola-nuts to the dancers—A native delicacy—On to Tschopowa—Voluntary carriers—A "royal" progress—Marabou feathers—A welcome surprise—I secure a wonderful bargain—The rest-house at Tschopowa—A huge baobab tree—Bow and arrow competitions—We secure pictures of hippo—Remarkable corn bins—Roast bats as native luxuries—I decline a share in the "banquet"—A live alarum clock | 213–226 |
| [CHAPTER XVI] | |
| THE WOMEN MINERS OF BANJELI | |
| Tschopowa to Kugnau—No roads—A careless guide—Schomburgk loses his way—Crossing the Oti River—Mosquitoes at Kugnau—Asmani and his "mosquito slaps"—A disconcerting mistake—Messa and Asmani fall out—The Konkombwa and their helmets—A too officious soldier—Anecdote about the Duke of Mecklenburg—Crossing the Oti for the last time—Arrival at Ibubu—A "Roman Fort"—In the Sokode district—Small food rations—Truculent natives—We buy a second ostrich—Lack of carriers—A serious dilemma—The chief of Ibubu is impertinent—"I can't make carriers out of mealie cobs"—I go on ahead with the few carriers available, leaving Schomburgk to follow—The disappearing women—On the road to Banjeli—Beautiful scenery—Schomburgk orders the chief of Ibubu to be arrested and brought a prisoner to Bassari—Women carriers—A glut of green and gold beetles—Our mail arrives at Banjeli from Bassari—News from home—I buy a pig—And am disappointed—A native "cooler"—Our personal boys imbibe not wisely but too well—A model punishment—Filming the native iron industry at Banjeli—Slave women miners—A pitiful sight—We obtain some most interesting pictures | 227–248 |
| [CHAPTER XVII] | |
| IN A MOUNTAIN COUNTRY | |
| Banjeli to Bassari—In a mountain country—Crossing the Katscha River—Bush riding—Arrival at Beapabe—An avenue of mango trees—We reach Bassari—Hospitality of Mr. Muckè, the Sub-District Commissioner—He places the "Massow House" at our disposal—Sleeping in a dwelling with windows—Scarcity of water—The "King of Bassari"—An Arab stallion—Native smiths at Bassari—The Mallam Mohammed, a local Pooh-Bah—An open-air school—The Mallam's eight wives—Their house and its treasures—They pay me a return visit—A Jack-in-the-box baby—Native jewellery—The District Commissioner from Sokode passes through Bassari | 249–262 |
| [CHAPTER XVIII] | |
| A WOMAN "PALAVER" | |
| Native marriages—A matter of sale and exchange—Infant betrothals—Native weddings—A Tschaudjo ceremony—A trying ordeal—Polygamy—Childbirth—Infant diet and infant mortality—Baby girls—A bush ordeal—The "Women's Queen"—Fetish women—Secret rites—Status of native wives—Widows—African death customs—Caravan cookery—Native cooks—Monkey-nut soup—Potatoes a coveted luxury—Bush delicacies | 263–279 |
| [CHAPTER XIX] | |
| BACK IN SOKODE | |
| Bassari to Malfakasa—Crossing the Kamaa River—A fearful climb—Mountain scenery—Uro-Ganede-Bo—A royal sanctuary—The last of our provisions—The outlaw of the "Long Gun" mountain—On the road from Malfakasa to Sokode—The Tim plains—Arrival in Sokode—In touch with civilisation once more—A telegraphic orgie—We say good-bye to our horses—Sending them down through the tsetse-fly belt—Precautions—Sleeping sickness—The Mallam of Dedaure—A splendid native—The native Government school at Sokode—Mr. Kuepers, the schoolmaster—Native scholars—Good manners of the children—Native children apter to learn than white up to a certain age—Herr von Parpart gives a farewell dinner—We meet Mr. and Mrs. Dehn—The choir invisible—By motor car to Atakpame—A breakdown on the road—Arrival at Atakpame—Kamina | 280–295 |
| [CHAPTER XX] | |
| KAMINA—LOME—HOME | |
| Warm welcome to Kamina—I am introduced to the Baroness Codelli von Fahnenfeld—Good news—A faithful black "boy"—The great wireless station at Kamina—Feminine vanity—Camping out v. living in—A tornado—Good-bye to Kamina—By rail to the coast—At Lome—Filming the first scene of our principal drama—We want a white baby—Difficulties of the quest—Shall we paint a black baby white?—A compromise—Social life in Lome—Herr Vollbehr paints my portrait in the gardens of the Duke of Mecklenburg's palace—The great pier at Lome—Coast natives—We part with our "boys"—Good-bye to Africa—Vain regrets—Las Palmas—I try a mild gamble—And win £7—We are nearly sunk when nearing Southampton | 296–311 |
| [INDEX] | 313–316 |