History of the Expedition Under the Command of Captains Lewis and Clark, Vol. 2. / To the Sources of the Missouri, Thence Across the Rocky Mountains and Down the River Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Performed During the Years 1804-5-6.

by Meriwether Lewis; William Clark

The road by which we went out by the way of the Missouri to its head is 3096 miles, thence by land, by way of Lewis’s river over to Clarke’s river, and down that to the entrance of Traveller’s-rest creek, where all the roads from different routes meet, then across the rugged part of the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, 398 miles; thence down the river 640 miles, to the Pacific ocean; making a total distance of 4134 miles. On our return in 1806, we came from Traveller’s-rest creek directly to the falls of the Missouri river, which shortens the distance about 579 miles, and is a much better route, reducing the distance from the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean to 3555 miles. 2575 miles of this distance is up the Missouri to the falls of that river; thence passing through the plains, and across the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Kooskooskee river, a branch of the Columbia, 340 miles; 200 miles of which is a good road, 140 miles over a tremendous mountain, steep and broken, 60 miles of which is covered several feet deep with snow, on which we passed the last of June: from the navigable part of the Kooskooskee we descended that rapid river 75 miles to its entrance into Lewis’s river, and down that river 154 miles to the Columbia, and thence 413 miles to its entrance into the Pacific ocean. About 180 miles of this distance is tide-water. We passed several bad rapids and narrows, and one considerable fall, 268 miles above the entrance of this river, of 37 feet 8 inches.—The total distance descending the Columbian waters 640 miles, making a total of 3555 miles, on the most direct route from the Mississippi, at the mouth of the Missouri, to the Pacific ocean.

ESTIMATE OF THE WESTERN INDIANS.

Names of Indian nations and their places of general residence.	Number of houses or lodges.	Probable number of souls.
1. Shoshonee nation resides in spring and summer on the west fork of Lewis’s river, a branch of the Columbia, and in winter and fall on the Missouri	60	800
2. Ootlashoot tribe of the Tushshepah nation reside in spring and summer in the Rocky mountains on Clarke’s river, and winter and fall on the Missouri and its waters	33	400
3. Chopunnish nation, residing on the Kooskooskee river, below the forks, and on Colter’s creek, and who sometimes pass over to the Missouri	33	2000
4. Pelloatpallah band of Chopunnish reside on the Kooskooskee, above the forks, and on the small streams which fall into that river, west of the Rocky mountains and Chopunnish river, and sometimes pass over to the Missouri	33	1600
5. Kimooenim band of Chopunnish nation reside on Lewis’s river, above the entrance of the Kooskooskee, as high up that river as the forks	33	800
6. Yeletpo band of Chopunnish reside under the southwest mountains, on a small river which falls into Lewis’s river, above the entrance of the Kooskooskee, which they call Weaucum	33	250
7. Willewah band of Chopunnish reside on a river of the same name, which discharges itself into Lewis’s river on the southwest side, below the forks of that river	33	500
8. Soyennom band of Chopunnish on the north side of the east fork of Lewis’s river, from its junction to the Rocky mountains, and on Lamaltar creek	33	400
9. Chopunnish of Lewis’s river, below the entrance of the Kooskooskee, on either side of that river to its junction with the Columbia	40	2300
10. Sokulk nation reside on the Columbia, above the entrance of Lewis’s river, as high up as the entrance of Clarke’s river	120	2400
11. Chimnahpum reside on the northwest side of the Columbia, both above and below the entrance of Lewis’s river, and on the Tapteel river, which falls into the Columbia 15 miles above Lewis’s river	42	1860
12. Wollawollah nation on both sides of the Columbia from the entrance of Lewis’s river, as low as the Muscleshell rapid, and in winter pass over to the Tapteel river	46	1600
13. Pishquitpahs nation resides on the Muscleshell rapid, and on the north side of the Columbia to the commencement of the high country; this nation winter on the waters of the Tapteel river	71	2600
14. Wahowpum nation resides on the north branch of the Columbia, in different bands from the Pishquitpahs, as low as the river Lapage; the different bands of this nation winter on the waters of Tapteel and Cataract rivers	33	700
15. Eneshure nation resides at the upper part of the Great narrows of the Columbia on either side—are stationary	41	1200
16. Eskeloot nation resides at the upper part of the Great narrows of the Columbia; on the north side is the great mart for all the country	21	1000
17. Chilluckittequaw nation residing next below the narrows, and extending down on the north side of the Columbia to the river Labiche	32	1400
18. Smockshop band of Chilluckittequaws resides on the Columbia, on each side of the entrance of the river Labiche to the neighbourhood of the great rapids of that river	24	800
19. Shahala nation resides at the grand rapids of the Columbia, and extends down in different villages as low as the Multnomah river, consisting of the following tribes: viz. Yehuh, above the rapids, Clahclellah, below the rapid, the Wahelellah, below all the rapids, and the Neerchokioon (1 house 100 lodges) on the south side, a few miles above the Multnomah river	62	2800
20. Wappatoo Indians.
Nechacokee tribe resides on the south side of the Columbia, a few miles below Quicksand river, and opposite the Diamond island	1	100
Shoto tribe reside on the north side of the Columbia, back of a pond, and nearly opposite the entrance of the Multnomah river	8	460
Multnomah tribe resides on Wappatoo island, in the mouth of the Multnomah, the remains of a large nation	6	800
Clannahqueh tribe of Multnomah resides on Wappatoo island, below the Multnomahs	4	130
Nemalquinner tribe of Multnomahs reside on the northeast side of the Multnomah river, three miles above its mouth	4	200
Cathlaconimatups, a tribe of Multnomahs, reside on the south side of the Wappatoo island on a spur of the Multnomah	3	170
Cathlanaquiahs, a tribe of Multnomahs, reside on the southwest side of Wappatoo island	6	400
Clackstar nation reside on a small river, which discharges itself on the southwest side of Wappatoo island	28	1200
Claninnatas resides on the southwest side of Wappatoo island	5	200
Cathlacumups reside on the main shore, southwest of Wappatoo island	6	450
Clannarminnamuns reside on the southwest side of the Wappatoo island	12	280
Quathlahpohtle nation reside on the southwest side of the Columbia, above the entrance of Tahwahnahiooks river, opposite the lower point of Wappatoo island	14	900
Cathlamahs reside on a creek which falls into the Columbia on the north side, at the lower part of the Columbian valley, north side	10	200
21. Skilloot nation resides on the Columbia, on each side in different villages, from the lower part of the Columbian valley as low as Sturgeon island, on either side of the Coweliskee river	50	2500
Hullooellell reside on the Coweliskee 22. Wahkiacums reside on the north side of the Columbia, opposite the Marshy islands	11	200
23. Cathlamahs reside on the south side of the Columbia, opposite to the Seal islands	9	300
24. Chinnooks reside on the north side of the Columbia, at the entrance of, and on Chinnook river	28	400
25. Clatsop nation resides on the south side of the Columbia, and a few miles along the southeast coast, on both sides of point Adams	14	200
26. Killamucks nation resides from the Clatsops of the coast along the southeast coast for many miles	50	1000
Indian information: The following nations speak the Killamuck language:
27. Lucktons reside on the seacoast to the southwest of the Killamucks		20
Kahuncles reside on the seacoast southwest of the Lucktons		400
Lukawis do. do. to the S.S.E. large town		800
Youikcones do. do. do. large houses		700
Neeketoos do. do. do. large town		700
Ulseahs do. do. do. small town		150
Youitts do. do. do. do.		150
Sheastuckles reside on the seacoast to the southeast of the Lucktons large town		900
Killawats do. do. do. do.		500
28. Cookkoo-oose nation reside on the seacoast, to the south of the Killawats		1500
Shallalah nation reside on the same course to the south		1200
Luckkarso nation do. do. do.		1200
Hannakallal nation do. do. do.		600
Indians along the N. W. coast.
29. Killaxthocles tribe reside on the seacoast, from the Chinnooks to the N. N. W.	8	100
Chiltz nation reside from the Killaxthokles along the N. N. W. coast	38	700
Clamoctomichs reside from the Chiltz along the N. N. W. coast	12	260
Potoashs reside on the same coast northwestwardly of the Clamoctomichs	10	200
Pailsh tribe reside from the Potoash on the northwest coast	10	200
Quiniilts reside from the Pailsh along the northwest coast	60	1000
Quieetsos reside from the Quiniilts along the northwest coast	18	250
Chillates reside from the Quieetsos along the northwest coast	8	150
Calasthocle reside from the Chillate northwest along the same coast	10	200
Quinnechart nation reside on the seacoast and creek, north and northwest of the Calasthocles		2000
30. Clarkamus nation reside on a large river of the same name, which heads in Mount Jefferson, and discharges itself into the Multnomah, forty miles up that river on its northeast side; this nation has several villages on either side		1800
31. Cushooks nation reside on the northeast bank of the Multnomah, immediately below the falls of that river, about sixty miles above its entrance into the Columbia		650
32. Charcowah nation reside on the southwest bank of the Multnomah, immediately above the falls; they take the salmon in that river		200
33. Callahpoewah nation inhabit the country on both sides of the Multnomah, above the Charcowahs for a great extent		2000
34. Shoshonee (or Snake Indians) residing in winter and fall on the Multomah river, southwardly of the southwest mountains, and in spring and summer on the heads of the Towanahiooks, La Page, Yaumalolam, and Wollawollah rivers, and more abundantly at the falls of the Towanahiooks, for the purpose of fishing		3000
35. Shoshonees on the Multnomah and its waters; the residence of them is not well known to us, or the Indians of the Columbia		6000
36. Shobarboobeer band of Shoshonees reside on the southwest side of the Multnomah river, high up the said river		1600
37. Shoshonees residing on the south fork of Lewis’s river, and on the Nemo, Walshlemo, Shallette, Shushpellanimmo, Shecomshink, Timmoonumlarwas, and the Copcoppakark rivers, branches of the south fork of Lewis’s river		3000
We saw parts of the following tribes at the Long narrows:
38. Skaddals nation reside on Cataract river, twenty-five miles north of the Big narrows		200
Squannaroos reside on Cataract river, below the Skaddals		120
Shallattoos reside on Cataract river, above them		100
Shanwappoms reside on the heads of Cataract and Tapteel rivers		400
39. Cutsahnim nation reside on both sides of the Columbia, above the Sokulks, and on the northern branches of the Tapteel river, and also on the Wahnaachee river	60	1200
Lahanna nation reside on both sides of the Columbia, above the entrance of Clarke’s river	120	2000
Coospellar nation reside on a river which falls into the Columbia, to the north of Clarke’s river	30	1600
Wheelpo nation reside on both sides of Clarke’s river, from the entrance of Lastaw to the great falls of Clarke’s river	130	2500
Hihighenimmo nation reside from the entrance of the Lastaw into Clarke’s river, on both sides of the Lastaw, as high as the forks	45	1300
Lartielo nation reside at the falls of the Lastaw river, below the great Wayton lake, on both sides of the river	30	600
Skeetsomish nation resides on a small river of the same name, which discharges itself into the Lastaw, below the falls, around the Wayton lake, and on two islands within the said lake	12	2000
Micksucksealton tribe of the Tushshepah reside on Clarke’s river, above the great falls of that river, in the Rocky mountains	25	300
Hohilpos, a tribe of the Tushshepah reside on Clarke’s river, above the Micksucksealtons, in the Rocky mountains.	25	300
Tushshepahs nation reside on a north fork of Clarke’s river in spring and summer, and the fall and winter on the Missouri. The Ootlashoots is a band of this nation.	35	430
Whole number of Indians W. of Rocky Mountains,		80,000

Thermometrical observations, showing also the rise and fall of the Mississippi (Missouri); appearances of weather, winds, &c. commencing at the mouth of the river.

Duboes in latitude 38° 55´ 19´´ ⁶/₁₀ north, and longitude 89° 57´ 45´´ west, January 1, 1804.

Thermometer on the north side of a tree in the woods.

Explanations of the notations of the weather.

f means fair weather.

c means cloudy.