DEAD GLACIER
While studying the North American Indians in Alaska I experience a thrilling adventure in the Mendenthall Valley which memory often recalls.
At Juneau, Judge Mellen, one of the eight United States judges appointed to Alaska, from Kentucky, who had accompanied me to Taku, giving me much information, invited me to dinner, when he told me I ought not to leave Alaska until I had seen a dead glacier. Mendenthall, he said was the most wonderful but hard to approach, and he and his wife declared I was just the fellow to tackle the job.
That evening he sent a trusty guide to me, who had another man on the string, and said he would take both of us for $20.00, we bearing all expenses. We were soon together, with his mother, a lady of great self-respect, who advised me to caution her son, Archibald, and not allow him to plunge into danger.
I sized Archibald up and decided he was a good fellow with heavy self-esteem and light experience, so I mentioned, before his mother, that the outing would be wild experience and very strenuous, at which Archibald assured me he could stand it if I could, besides it was just the job he was seeking for, as he wanted to take something home out of the ordinary.
The next evening at 10:30, the time when the sun sets in Alaska in June, we left Juneau in a rowboat, as we must cross the bar at high water at about midnight, or go around about fifty miles each way, both going and returning.
Our guide, who had never taken the trip before, miscalculated and we were late at the bar. This left us our choice to jump out and draw the boat through the sea weeds at once or wait until the next tide came in. Archibald reluctantly straddled over the side of the boat, mentioning that he came north for his health, and did not think that a midnight bath would be beneficial, especially such a very cold one.
"You will get warm enough," I said, "before noon, when we are working our way through that swamp, where mosquitoes are as big as grasshoppers and the bears as big as oxen."
"Bears? What bears, Mr. Richardson?"
"I understand that those woods are full of bears. How is it, guide?"