The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)

by Michel de Montaigne

As I passed by Pongibaut I went to pay my respects to Madame La Fayette, and remained with her half-an-hour. This house has not the beauty its reputation warrants, the site being ugly, the garden small and angular, with paths raised some four or five feet, and beds sunk and filled for the most part with fruit trees, the herbs being very scanty. The sides of the sunk beds aforesaid are set with cut stone. It snowed so fast, and the weather was so rough and cold, that nothing was to be seen of the country. I reached Pont-a-Mar, seven leagues off, and slept there. This is a small village, and while there I heard that Monsieur and Madame du Lude were sojourning at a place two leagues away. I slept that night at Pont Sarrant after riding six leagues.

As far as Limoges this road is badly furnished with inns, which, however, give you tolerably good wine, but they are used only by muleteers and couriers going to Lyons. My head was uneasy, the storms and cold winds and rain were very bad for it; and in sooth it got its fill of discomfort in this journey over a region where the winter is sharper than anywhere else in France. On Wednesday, November 22, I left Pont Sarrant in very bad weather, and, after passing by Feletin, a well-built little town placed in a hollow surrounded by high hills and now almost deserted on account of the recent pestilence, I stopped the night at Chastein, a miserable little village, five leagues on the road. Here I was forced to drink new unclarified wine, as no other was to be had, and the next day went on five leagues farther to Saubiac, which belongs to Monsieur de Lausun, thence to Limoges, where I stayed all the Saturday, I bought a mule for ninety crowns of the sun,[133] and paid in addition five crowns for maintenance of this mule from Lyons to this place, having been hereby cheated out of four crowns, for the cost of all the other horses for the same distance only amounted to three crowns and two-thirds.

On Sunday, November the 26th, I left Limoges after dinner, and, after riding five leagues, slept at Cars, where I found no one but Madame de Cars at home. I slept on Monday night at Tivie—six leagues—on Tuesday at Perigus—five leagues—on Wednesday at Mauriac—five leagues—and on Thursday, St. Andrew’s, the last day of November, at Montaigne[134]—seven leagues—having quitted this same spot on June 22, 1580, to go to La Fère, my journey having lasted seventeen months and eight days.

INDEX

• Abano, ii. [21], [23]
• Agriculture, ii. [186], [187], [191], [192]; iii. [33], [84], [85]
• Aigues Caudes (Eaux Chaudes), i. [78]; ii. [181]; iii. [45]
• Ammianus Marcellinus, i. [64n]
• Amyot, J., ii. [126n]
• Ancona, iii. [1-4]
• Andelot, Sieur, i. [47], [48]
• Angelo, Mich., i. [11]; ii. [49]
• Antiquities, classic, i. [91], [115]; ii. [71], [98], [100], [128-131], [166], [185]; iii. [7], [84], [118], [119]
• Appenino (statue), ii. [44], [47]
• Arabian physician, ii. [122]
• Arezzo, iii. [22], [123n]
• Ariosto, ii. [34]; iii. [110]
• Artillery, ii. [164]
• Augsburg, i. [9], [129-150];
• religious factions, i. [149]
• Austria, i. [74], [97], [123];
• Don John of, ii. [127];
• relations with Lucca, iii. [33]
• Baden, baths of, i. [77-91];
• cost of living at, [89]
• Bagnaja, iii. [162], [165]
• Banieres (Bagnères de Bigorre), i. [55]; ii. [39]; iii. [33], [47], [79]
• Baptism, Lutheran, i. [132], [133]
• Barbotan, i. [78]; ii. [28]; iii. [45], [79]
• Bartholomew, S., i. [11]; ii. [127n]
• Basle, i. [62-67];
• religious discords, [65];
• dissoluteness of women, [66]
• Baths at Rome, ii. [133], [134]
• Beaumont-sur-Oise, i. [25], [26]
• Beds, i. [103], [107], [130], [168], [188]; ii. [31], [32]; iii. [51]
• Bembo, P., ii. [10]
• Bernabo, spring of, iii. [56], [62], [88], [102]
• Bird-catching, iii. [136]
• Boccaccio, iii. [152];
• his will, [107]
• Boetie, E. de la, iii. [53]
• Bologna, ii. [37-39];
• factions at, [39]; iii. [113]
• Bolsena, ii. [68]
• Books, confiscated, ii. [77];
• restored, ii. [139];
• censured, ii. [175], [176]
• Borro, Giov., iii. [123], [124], [128]
• Botzen, i. [177-179]
• Bracciolini, Poggio, i. [81]
• Brenner, pass of, i. [166-172]
• Brigandage, ii. [40], [187], [188]; iii. [180]
• Brixen, i. [172]
• Bulicame, iii. [161]
• Bulletin of health, ii. [1], [33], [36], [73]
• Buoncompagno, Giac., ii. [84], [165];
• Filippo, ii. [141n]
• Calvin, Calvinism, i. [65], [88], [106]; iii. [87]
• Canals, ii. [28], [29]
• Capello, Bianca, ii. [52], [53n]; iii. [28n]
• Capperonier, M., i. [22]
• Caprarola, i. [10]; iii. [164]
• Caselis, M. de, i. [20], [41], [191]; ii. [20]
• Casimir, Duke, i. [61]
• Catena, i. [21]; ii. [89-91]
• Catholicism, latent, amongst the reformed, i. [85]
• Catiline, iii. [30]
• Cenis, Mont, iii. [195]
• Certaldo, iii. [152]
• Certosa, i. [11]; iii. [190]
• Chaffousine (Fusina), ii. [13], [14], [18], [35]
• Chalons, i. [34]
• Charles V., i. [48], [97], [143], [167], [185]
• Chaumont-en-Bassigni, i. [36]
• Chimera, figure of, ii. [58]; iii. [102]
• Circumcision, rite of, ii. [102-105]
• Clement VII. (Pope), i. [185]
• Clesio, Card., i. [182-186]
• Coaches of Roman nobility, ii. [146]
• Colleges in Rome, ii. [83]
• Colombin, S., ii. [8]
• Confraternities, ii. [151], [156]
• Cornacchini, T., iii. [127]
• Corsena, spring of, iii. [43-45]
• Coryat, T., i. [8], [18]; ii. [10n]
• Courtenay, Earl of Devon, ii. [11n]
• Courtesans, i. [18]; ii. [17], [18], [115], [146], [148], [160]; iii. [105], [108]
• Crayfish, i. [71], [131], [187]
• D’Abein, M., ii. [79], [120], [123]; iii. [168]
• Dancing, i. [139], [140];
• school of, at Padua, ii. [10];
• permitted by Lutherans, i. [121]
• Dante, iii. [109n], [161n]
• D’Arc, Jeanne, i. [41]
• D’Este, Alfonso, Duke of Ferrara, ii. [33], [34]; iii. [15]
• D’Este, Card., ii. [25], [167n], [194]
• D’Estissac, M., i. [20], [25], [30], [58], [62], [75], [94], [191]; ii. [33], [65], [80]; iii. [172]
• Divizia, Lucchese poet, iii. [72], [73]
• Donato, iii. [54], [88]
• Dowries to girls at Rome, ii. [161-162]
• Draining marshes, ii. [30], [31]; iii. [123], [176]
• Duel, M. Mattecoulon’s, i. [20]; iii. [172n]
• Elena, S., baths of, ii. [26-28]
• Empire, politics of, i. [85], [97];
• unpopularity of the Emperor, i. [85]
• Empoli, iii. [109]
• Estienne, H., ii. [125]
• Etruscan writing, iii. [113]
• Excommunication, sentence of, ii. [148-150]
• Exorcism, ii. [111-113]
• Factions, French and Spanish, at Bologna, ii. [39];
• at Lucca, iii. [163]
• Fano, iii. [6], [8]
• Farnese, Alessandro (Cardinal), ii. [178n]; iii. [164]
• Faron, S., i. [28]
• Fencing, i. [134]; ii. [10]; iii. [103]
• Ferdinand of Tirol, i. [155], [159], [161], [162];
• his sons, i. [163], [166]; iii. [186], [187]
• Ferdinand I. (Emperor), i. [164], [167]
• Ferier, A. de, ii. [14]
• Ferrara, ii. [33-36]
• Ferries, i. [76]; ii. [31], [32]
• Flaminian Way, ii. [181]; iii. [10], [12]
• Flax, iii. [160]
• Fleur-de-lys, ii. [52]; iii. [28], [117], [189]
• Florence, ii. [47-59]; iii. [93-108];
• want of culture in, ii. [59]
• Foix, M. de, ii. [141]
• Foligno, ii. [189]
• Fornovo, i. [8]; iii. [183]
• Forum Romanum, ii. [98]
• Fossombrone, iii. [9]
• French popular in Tuscany, ii. [66]
• Fuggers, the, i. [23], [143], [186]
• Furlo, pass of, iii. [11], [12]
• Garda, lake of, i. [190-193]
• Gardens, at Augsburg, i. [140-143];
• at Rome, ii. [159-160];
• Petraja, ii. [54-55];
• see also “Tivoli” and “Pratolino” Gate, mechanical, at Augsburg, i. [164-166]
• Germain, Mary, i. [21], [37-39]
• Germany, Montaigne’s liking of, i. [6], [7], [179], [188]; ii. [9]; iii. [65]
• Grammont, M. de, i. [26n]
• Greece, Montaigne’s project to visit, i. [188]
• Gregory XIII. (Pope), i. [10]; ii. [67], [80-85], [88], [114], [138], [161], [162], [185]
• Grynæus, i. [64]
• Guillot’s at Amiens, iii. [23]
• Hadrian’s villa, ii. [171n], [173];
• his palace at Pisa, iii. [113]
• Hala, i. [160], [165];
• salt works, [161]
• Hannibal, iii. [25]
• Hasdrubal, iii. [9], [17]
• Hautoy, M. de, i. [191]; ii. [65], [80]
• Helfenstein, Count of, i. [128]
• Henry II. of France, i. [10]; iii. [165]
• Henry III. of France, ii. [13], [17n], [79n]
• Henry VIII. of England, ii. [119], [120]
• Heresy suspected in Montaigne’s writings, ii. [139], [140], [175], [176]
• Hildegarde, S., i. [119]
• Hosius, Card., ii. [177]
• Hottoman, F., i. [7], [64], [179]
• Huguenots, i. [119]; ii. [97], [126], [149]
• Inns, charges at, i. [111];
• deficiencies in, ii. [9], [49], [50]; iii. [101], [111], [131], [190], [194]
• Innkeepers, knavery of, ii. [40], [41]; iii. [182]
• Innsbruck, i. [158-166]
• Italian ladies wanting in beauty, ii. [49], [107]; iii. [8]
• Janiculum, ii. [94]
• Janus, temple of, ii. [99n]
• Jesuates, ii. [3], [7], [35]
• Jesuits, i. [12], [127], [134], [149], [153], [165]; ii. [196]
• Jews, ii. [5];
• races in the Corso, ii. [106];
• doctor consulted by Montaigne, iii. [174]
• Journal, Montaigne’s, discovery of, i. [2];
• written in Italian, iii. [56];
• again in French, iii. [195]
• Kempten, i. [115-123]
• Kitchens, i. [72], [73]
• Königsfelden, abbey of, i. [75], [76]
• La Fère, i. [25], [26n], [61]; iii. [205]
• Le More’s, at Paris, iii. [23]
• Leonore, daughter of Montaigne, i. [173]; iii. [198]
• Leopold of Austria, i. [76n]
• Lepers in Germany, i. [102]
• Lindau, i. [103-112]
• Livy, ii. [11], [21n]; iii. [25]
• Lodgings, i. [89]; iii. [39], [51], [101], [111];
• badness of, at Florence, ii. [49], [50]
• Loreto, i. [10], [12], [13]; ii. [196-209]; iii. [147]
• Lovanella, its famous inn, iii. [23]
• Lucca, iii. [33-35], [132-138], [148-150];
• military service in, iii. [46], [50], [63];
• judicial system, iii. [74], [147]
• Lucca, baths of, iii. [37-92], [138-148];
• peasants sceptical of the virtue of the waters, iii. [147];
• plethora of apothecaries, iii. [39], [147]
• Lutherans, i. [97], [105], [113], [119], [131], [132]
• Lyons, iii. [200]
• Macerata, ii. [194]
• Magnus, S., i. [125]
• Maldonat, M., i. [32-34], 81; ii. [158]
• Mangot, M., ii. [124]
• Marriages, mixed, i. [136];
• ceremony at the house of the Fuggers, i. [139]
• Marteau, M., i. [13]; ii. [205]
• Massa, iii. [177]
• Mattecoulon, M., i. [20], [25], [191]; ii. [65], [80]; iii. [172]
• Maximilian I. (Emperor), i. [158];
• his tomb, i. [163]; ii. [213]
• Mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. [19]; iii. [146], [a]167]
• Meaux, i. [25-31]
• Medici, Cath. dei, i. [10], [32], [64]; ii. [141n]; iii. [165]
• Medici, Cosimo I. (Grand Duke), i. [48], [51]; iii. [96], [114], [123], [179n]
• Medici, Ferd. dei (Card.), ii. [53], [78], [88], [149]; iii. [102], [178n]
• Medici, Francesco dei (Grand Duke), ii. [48], [52], [63]; iii. [21], [30], [95], [99], [101], [110], [173]
• Medici, Lorenzino dei, iii. [114]
• Medici, Piero dei, iii. [120]
• Milan, iii. [191], [192]
• Miracles, i. [147], [156];
• Montaigne’s acceptance of, i. [13]; ii. [205]
• Mirandola, Pico della, iii. [16]
• Montaigne, begins his journal, i. [25];
• his liking for Germany, i. [7], [179], [188]; ii. [9], [49]; iii. [65];
• his praise of stoves, i. [86], [94], [187];
• honour done to him in Augsburg, i. [9], [136], [137];
• his courage, i. [19]; iii. [140];
• conformity to local custom, i. [84], [138]; ii. [70];
• appreciation of good citizens, i. [183];
• his habit of diet, i. [103];
• partiality for Jesuits, i. [12]; ii. [145], [146];
• illnesses, i. [16], [54], [170]; ii. [38], [100], [105], [134]; iii. [25], [43], [131], [139], [141], [144];
• incongruities of style, i. [23];
• censure of irreligion, ii. [2];
• recognition of the power of the Church, i. [15], [16];
• acceptance of miracles, i. [13]; ii. [205];
• mayoralty of Bordeaux, i. [19]; iii. [146], [a]167];
• travel requisites forgotten, i. [109];
• offended by the Archduke of Tirol, i. [162];
• his philosophy of travel, i. [189], [190]; iii. [134];
• remarks on the site of Rome, i. [15]; ii. [75], [95-100]; iii. [170];
• on its civil liberty, ii. [76];
• on scenery, i. [14], [157], [158]; ii. [191], [192]; iii. [38];
• fear of sea-sickness, ii. [19n];
• pleasure of travel, i. [172-175];
• patience under pain, i. [17]; ii. [186];
• fear of dew, i. [187]; ii. [71];
• wariness in choosing an inn, ii. [42];
• resolves to revisit Venice, ii. [23];
• leaves books at Padua, ii. [23];
• dines with the Grand Duke of Florence, ii. [53];
• with the Cardinal de Sens, ii. [85-88];
• with the French Ambassador, ii. [123-126];
• adverse criticism of Florence, ii. [54], [59];
• does justice to it, iii. [105];
• indifference to art, i. [10], [11];
• excess of Frenchmen in Padua, ii. [10];
• in Rome, ii. [74];
• his books seized, ii. [77];
• restored, ii. [139];
• censured, ii. [175], [176];
• his audience with the Pope, ii. [80-82];
• discontent with guides, i. [90], [101]; ii. [95];
• attends a Jewish service, ii. [100], [101];
• ceremony of circumcision, ii. [102-105];
• public executions, ii. [111-113];
• his remarks on Roman ladies, ii. [107], [108];
• begins to write the journal himself, ii. [110];
• comparison of Rome and Paris, ii. [133];
• on Roman preaching, ii. [143-145];
• on the salubrity of the climate, ii. [159];
• on his superficial knowledge of the place, ii. [161];
• grant to him of Roman citizenship, ii. [164-166];
• visits the Vatican library, ii. [117], [122];
• fixes an ex voto at Loreto, ii. [198];
• his remarks on the baths of Lucca, iii. [47], [54], [55], [78], [81], [147];
• on the judicial system of the state, iii. [74];
• on military service, iii. [50], [63], [132-138];
• on medicine, iii. [77], [78], [147];
• on democratic bearing, iii. [91];
• gives a ball, iii. [67-74];
• adopts party emblems, iii. [89];
• sees an operation at Basle, i. [66], [67];
• sees Boccaccio’s will, iii. [107];
• a display of equitation, iii. [a]167];
• a card factory, iii. [201];
• returns to Rome, iii. [166];
• leaves it finally, iii. [172];
• impressions of Milan, iii. [191];
• leaves his arms at Plombières, i. [55];
• at Augsburg, i. [150];
• in Lucca, iii. [144];
• musical taste of the peasantry, iii. [110];
• is begged to reside in Rome, ii. [176];
• his purchases in Pisa, iii. [122];
• leaves Milan, iii. [192];
• crosses Mont Cenis, iii. [195];
• leaves Lyons, iii. [200];
• returns to Montaigne, iii. [205]
• Montefeltro, Federigo di, iii. [14], [15n], [16n];
• Guidobaldo di, iii. [15n]
• Montirandet, i. [36];
• strange case of a woman there, i. [36], [37]
• Moryson, Fynes, i. [8]; ii. [15n], [17n]; iii. [182n], [189n]
• Moscovite Ambassador at Rome, ii. [115], [117], [137]
• Mulhouse, i. [60];
• the host at the “Grapes,” [61]
• Munich, i. [151], [153]
• Munster, Seb., i. [64], [110], [135n]
• Muret, Marc. Ant., ii. [123]
• Narni, ii. [183]
• Necessaries of travel, i. [109]
• Neufchasteau, i. [42], [43], [45]
• Ogier the Dane, i. [28], [29]
• Operation at Basle, i. [66], [67]
• Ostia, ii. [127], [130];
• saltworks, [131]
• Padua, i. [11];
• Frenchmen at, [5]; ii. [9-13];
• cost of living at, ii. [20]
• Palladio, ii. [7n]
• Paré, A., i. [21], [37n], [38], [39]
• Parma, iii. [183];
• Duke of, iii. [185], [186]
• Paul III. (Pope), i. [11], [116]; iii. [10n], [161], [165], [a]171]
• Pavia, iii. [187-190];
• battle of, iii. [190]
• Peter’s, S., i. [11]; ii. [78], [135], [149], [152], [155]
• Peter and Paul, SS., ii. [156], [157]
• Petraja (Castello), ii. [54-58]; iii. [26]
• Petrarch, iii. [24]
• Petrino, ii. [188]
• Philosophy of Travel, i. [189-191]
• Piacenza, iii. [184-187]
• Piccolomini, S., iii. [103]
• Pietramala, ii. [43]
• Pilgrimage churches at Rome, ii. [138], [141]
• Pinitesi, L., iii. [90], [133], [137]
• Pisa, iii. [110-128];
• baths of, [129], [131];
• earth in Campo Santo, i. [14]; iii. [116];
• insalubrity of, iii. [123]
• Pistoia, iii. [29-31]
• Plater, F., i. [62], [64]
• Plommieres (Plombières), i. [45-55], [170], [187]; iii. [79]
• Plutarch, ii. [118], [123-126]
• Poggio a Cajano, iii. [28], [29]
• Portuguese homage at Rome, ii. [135];
• strange sect of fanatics, ii. [136]
• Posting, ii. [69], [70]; iii. [2], [93]
• Poussay, i. [43], [56]
• Praie (Praglia), ii. [22]
• Prato, iii. [27], [28]
• Pratolino, i. [9]; ii. [43], [45], [64], [170], [172]; iii. [106]
• Provisions, table, i. [73], [74], [107], [109];
• in Rome, ii. [134], [135];
• Lucca, iii. [39-41]
• Prunis, M., i. [2]
• Quails, iii. [3]
• Quarrel with guide, i. [100], [101];
• with vetturino, ii. [193]; iii. [155];
• of priests and friars at Pisa, iii. [126]
• Querlon, M., i. [22], [42n], [76n], [80n], [164n]; ii. [205n]
• Races, ii. [106]; iii. [96-98], [102]
• Rats, i. [138]
• Religious toleration, i. [16]
• Remiremont, i. [57];
• strange tenure of land, ib.;
• nuns of, i. [58]
• Renegade, story of, iii. [48-50]
• Ricchieri, L., ii. [32]
• Riva, i. [191], [192]
• Roads, safety of, in Tirol, i. [169];
• state of, in Lombardy, ii. [37];
• in the mountains, ii. [41], [42], [68];
• improved by Gregory XIII., ii. [183]
• Rohan, Duke of, i. [179n]
• Roland, i. [29n]
• Rome, Montaigne’s impressions of, i. [15];
• his stay there, ii. [72-180]; iii. [166], [172];
• remarks on site of, ii. [75];
• on public security, ii. [76];
• want of clocks, ii. [91];
• cold of winter, ii. [93];
• buildings, ii. [97];
• comparison with Paris, ii. [133];
• street life, ii. [146];
• pleasures of sojourn, ii. [161], [164]
• Ronciglione, ii. [69]
• Rovere, i. [187-193]
• Rovigo, ii. [31-33]
• Running at the ring, ii. [110]
• Rynach, Claude de, i. [50]
• Sainte Beuve, i. [2]
• Santa Rotonda (Pantheon), ii. [156]; iii. [114]
• Sarrezana (Sarzana), iii. [178], [179]
• Savoy, Duke of, i. [82], [94]; iii. [192]
• Scenery, Montaigne’s delight in, i. [14], [157], [158]; ii. [191-193]
• Schaffhausen, i. [91-96]
• Sculpture, i. [11];
• at Florence, ii. [48];
• at Tivoli, ii. [170-171]
• Sea sickness, ii. [19n]
• Secretary, Montaigne’s, i. [7], [22];
• takes on luggage by water to Augsburg, i. [125];
• is left at Rovere, i. [192];
• takes on luggage to Verona, i. [193];
• goes on in advance from Battaglia, ii. [26];
• makes a bargain for rooms at Florence, ii. [50];
• finishes his work as amanuensis, ii. [110]
• Sens, Cardinal of, ii. [85-88]; iii. [170]
• Shooting grounds, i. [92], [134]
• Sibyl, temple of, ii. [174]
• Siena, ii. [60-65]; iii. [99], [152], [174]
• Silvester II. (Pope), ii. [142-144]
• Sinigaglia, iii. [5-7]
• Sirleto, Card., ii. [121]
• Sistine Chapel, ii. [113]
• Snakes, iii. [59], [60]
• Spanish homage for Portugal, ii. [137]
• Spoleto, ii. [184], [185]
• Standards, captured French, at Florence, i. [8]; ii. [48]
• Straw plaiting, iii. [26], [30]
• Strozzi, P., i. [31]; ii. [48]; iii. [165];
• family, i. [51]; iii. [97], [98]
• Switzerland, i. [60-96];
• politics of, i. [82];
• customs, i. [83-85]
• Table fare, i. [107], [109], [148]; ii. [49], [110], [134], [135];
• service, i. [70-73], [84], [85], [102], [126], [131], [148]; ii. [49]; iii. [31]
• Tacitus, i. [80]
• Tasso, i. [21]; ii. [36], [37n]
• Terelle, J., i. [30]
• Terni, ii. [184]
• Theatre, ii. [38]
• Theology, i. [65], [88], [106], [113], [114]
• Tillianus, T., i. [121]
• Tirol, i. [155-192];
• riches of, i. [177]
• Tivoli, i. [9]; ii. [166-174]; iii. [106], [163]
• Travel, cost of, i. [110-112], 152; ii. [208]; iii. [2], [93];
• pleasure of, i. [17], [172-175], [188-190]
• Tree cultivation, i. [93]
• Trent, i. [113], [180], [186]
• Treves, Gilles de, i. [40]
• Trevi, ii. [189]
• Turin, iii. [193], [194]
• Urbino, iii. [12-17];
• Duke of, iii. [5], [8], [9], [19], [21]
• Vasari, i. [10]; ii. [52n]
• Vatican, ii. [94];
• library, ii. [117-122]
• Vaucouleur, i. [41]
• Velabrum, ii. [99]
• Venice, ii. [14-18];
• suspicious policy of, ii. [15];
• revenues, ib.;
• cost of living, ii. [18];
• explanation of his short stay there, ii. [23];
• comparison with Rome, ii. [164]
• Verona, i. [193-195]; ii. [1-6];
• arena, ii. [4]
• Veronica Franca, ii. [16-17]
• Veronica, S., ii. [150], [151]
• Vicenza, ii. [7-9]
• Virgil, ii. [121], [189]
• Viterbo, ii. [68]; iii. [157-162], [173]
• Vitri le François, i. [35-39]
• Volto Santo, iii. [149]
• Water, fraudulent sale of at Lucca, iii. [74], [75];
• music, ii. [168], [169];
• works, i. [9], [98], [127], [135], [141], [57], [167-173]; iii. [106]
• Well, curious, i. [148]
• Welser, Philippina, i. [163n]; iii. [187n]
• Whooping cough, i. [26n]
• Wine, i. [149], [178]; ii. [8], [9]; iii. [83], [105], [107];
• gifts of, i. [57], [62], [94]; iii. [90]
• Wood work, iii. [121], [122]
• Zwingli, i. [88], [106], [113], [122]

THE END
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FOOTNOTES:

[1] The cathedral. It stands on the summit of Monte Guasco above the harbour, and is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Venus. Its present design is attributed, on doubtful authority, to Margaritone of Arezzo. Montaigne’s statement about the relics is hardly borne out by the existing collection, which is of the ordinary character: bits of the wood of the cross, nails, spear-heads, &c.

[2] Ἀγκώυ, an elbow.

[3] This inscription is no longer in existence. The church referred to is S. Maria di Porta Cipriana, in which the Greek rite was allowed by Clement VII. in 1524.