These are the briars which beset the wayside of the stranger in Turkey. He has not only to contend with the unaccustomed language and manners of the natives—to fling from him his European prejudices—and to learn to look candidly and dispassionately on a state of society, differing so widely from that which he has left—but when the wearied spirit would fain fall back, and repose itself for a while among more familiar and congenial habits, it has previously to undergo an ordeal as unexpected as it is irritating; and from which it requires no inconsiderable portion of moral courage to escape unshackled.
Such are the adventitious and unnecessary difficulties that have been gratuitously prepared for the Eastern traveller, and superadded to the natural impediments of the locality; and of these he has infinitely more reason to complain, than of the unavoidable obstacles which meet him at every step in his commerce with the natives. That the Turks as a people, and particularly the Turkish females, are shy of making the acquaintance of strangers, is most true; their habits and feelings do not lend themselves readily to a familiar intercourse with Europeans; nor are they induced to make any extraordinary effort to overcome the prejudice with which they ever look upon a Frank, when they remember how absurdly and even cruelly they have been misrepresented by many a passing traveller, possessed neither of the time nor the opportunity to form a more efficient judgment.
When my father and myself left Europe, it was with the intention of visiting, not only Turkey, but also Greece, and Egypt; and we accordingly carried with us letters to influential individuals, resident in each of those interesting countries, whose assistance and friendship would have been most valuable to us. And, for the two or three first months of our sojourn in Constantinople, while yet unwilling to draw deductions, and to trust myself with inferences, which might, and probably would, ultimately prove erroneous, I suffered myself to be misled by the assertions and opinions of prejudiced and party-spirited persons, and still maintained the same purpose. But, when awakened to a suspicion of the spirit-thrall in which I had been kept, I resolved to hazard no assertion or opinion which did not emanate from personal conviction, and I found that I could not prove an honest chronicler if I merely contented myself with a hurried and superficial survey of a country constituted like Turkey.
To this conviction must consequently be attributed the fact that the whole period of my sojourn in the East was passed in Constantinople, and a part of Asia Minor. But my personal disappointment will be over-paid, should it be conceded that I have not failed in the attempt of affording to my readers a more just and complete insight into Turkish domestic life, than they have hitherto been enabled to obtain.
Bradenham Lodge, Bucks,
May 1837.
CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.
| CHAPTER I. | |
The Golden Horn—Stamboul in Snow—The Seraï Bournou—Scutari—Galata—FirstView of Constantinople—St. Sophia and Solimaniè—Pera—Domesticationof Aquatic Birds—Sounds at Sea—Caïques—OrientalGrouping—Armenian Costume—Reforms of Sultan Mahmoud—Dervishes—EasternJews—Evening—Illuminated Minarets—Romanceversus Reason—Pain at Parting—Custom House ofGalata—The East versus the West—Reminiscences of the MarseilloisFunctionaries—The British Consul at Marseilles—The Light-houseat Syra—The Frank Quarter—Diplomatic Atmosphere—Straw Huts—Careof the Turks for Animals—Scene from Shakspeare | [Page 1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
Difficulty of Ingress to Turkish Houses—Steep Streets—The Harem—TheTandour—The Mangal—The Family—Female Costume—LuxuriousHabits—The Ramazan—The Dining-room—The Widow—TheDinner—The Turks not Gastronomers—Oriental Hospitality—Ceremonyof Ablution—The Massaldjhe—Alarm in the Harem—ThePrayer—Evening Offering—Puerile Questions—Opium—PrimitivePainting—Splendid Beds—Avocations of a TurkishLady—Oriental Coquetry—Shopping—Commercial Flirtations—TheSultana Heybétoullah—A Turkish Carriage—The Charshees—ArmenianMerchants—Greek Speculators—Perfumes and Embroidery | [16] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
Turning Dervishes—Appearance of the Tekiè—The Mausoleum—Dutiesof the Dervishes—Chapel of theConvent—The Chief Priest—Dress of the Brotherhood—Melancholy Music—Solemnity of theService—Mistakes of a Modern Traveller—Explanation of the Ceremony—ThePrayer—The Kiss of Peace—Appearance of the Chapel—ReligiousTolerance of the Turks—The French Renegade—Sketchof Halet Effendi, The Founder of the Tekiè | [40] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
Merchants of Galata—Palaces of Pera—Picturesque Style of Building—ThePerotes—Social Subjects—Greeks, European and Schismatic—AmbassadorialResidences—Entrée of the Embassies—The Carnival—SoiréesDansantes—The Austrian Minister—Madame la Baronne—TheRussian Minister—Madame de Boutenieff—The Masked Ball—RussianSupremacy—The Prussian Plenipotentiary—TheSardinian Chargé d’Affaires—Diplomacy Unhoused—Society ofPera | [56] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
The Greek Carnival—Kassim Pasha—The Marine Barrack—TheAdmiralty—Palace of the Capitan Pasha—Turkish Ships and TurkishSailors—More Mistakes—Aqueduct of Justinian—The Seraï—TheArsenal—The “Sweet Waters”—The Fanar—Interior of a GreekHouse—Courteous Reception—Patriarchal Customs—Greek Ladiesat Home—Confectionary and Coffee—A Greek Dinner—Ancient andModern Greeks—A Few Words on Education—National Politeness—TheGreat Logotheti Aristarchi—His Politics—Sketch of hisFather—His Domestic History—A Greek Breakfast—The Morningafter a Ball—Greek Progress towards Civilization—Parallel betweenthe Turk and the Greek | [65] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
Difficulty of Obtaining an Insight into Turkish Character—Inconvenienceof Interpreters—Errors of Travellers—Ignorance of ResidentEuropeans—Fables and Fable-mongers—Turkey, Local and Moral—Absenceof Capital Crime—Police of Constantinople—QuietStreets—Sedate Mirth—Practical Philosophy of the Turks—NationalEmulation—Impossibility of Revolution—Mahmoud and his People—Unpopularityof the Sultan—Russian Interference—Vanity of theTurks—Russian Gold—Tenderness of the Turks to Animals—Penaltyfor Destroying a Dog—The English Sportsman—Fondnessof the Turks for Children—Anecdote of the Reiss Effendi—AdoptedChildren—Love of the Musselmauns for their Mothers—Turkishindifference to Death—Their Burial-places—Fasts—The Turks in theMosque—Contempt of the Natives for Europeans—Freedom of theTurkish Women—Inviolability of the Harem—Domestic Economy ofthe Harem—Turkish Slaves—Anecdote of a Slave of AchmetPasha—Cleanliness of Turkish Houses—The Real Romance of theEast | [85] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
The Harem of Mustafa Effendi—The Ladies of the Harem—EtiquetticalObservances of the Harem—Ceremonies of the Salemliek—Jealousyof Precedence among the Turkish Women—Apartment ofthe Effendi—Eastern Passion for Diamonds—Personal Appearance ofMustafa Effendi—The little Slave-girl—Slavery in Turkey—GallantPresent—The Dinner—Turkish Cookery—Illuminated Mosques—TheBokshaliks—The Toilet after the Bath—History of an Odalisque—StupidHusbands—Reciprocal Commiseration—Errors of a ModernFrench Traveller—Privacy of the Women’s Apartments—Anecdoteof the Wife of the Kïara Bey—The Baïram Bokshalik—My Sleeping-room—Forethoughtof Turkish Hospitality—Farewell to FatmaHanoum—Dense Crowd—Turkish Mob—Turkish Officers—MilitaryDifficulty—The “Lower Orders”—Tolerance of the Orientals towardsForeigners—Satisfactory Expedient | [109] |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
Bath-room of Scodra Pasha—Fondness of the Eastern Women for theBath—The Outer Hall—The Proprietress—Female Groups—TheCooling-room—The Great Hall—The Fountains—The Bathing Women—TheDinner—Apology for the Turkish Ladies | [129] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
Cheerful Cemeteries—Burial-ground of Pera—Superiority of theTurkish Cemeteries—Cypresses—Singular Superstition—The GrandChamps—Greek Grave-yard—Sultan Selim’s Barrack—Village ofSt. Demetrius—European Burial-ground—Grave-stones—TheKiosk—Noble View—Legend of the Maiden’s Tower—PlagueHospital of the Turks—The Plague-Caïque—Armenian Cemetery—CuriousInscriptions—Turkish Burial-place—Distinctive Head-stones—Gravesof the Janissaries—Wild Superstition—Cemetery of Scutari—SplendidCypresses—Ancient Prophecy—Extent of Burial-ground—TheHeadless Dead—Exclusive Enclosures—Aspect of theCemetery from the Summer Palace of Heybètoullah Sultane—LocalSuperstition—The Damnèd Souls | [138] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
Character of the Constantinopolitan Greeks—The Greek Colony at theFanar—Vogoride, Logotheti, and Angiolopolo—Political Sentiment—Chateaubriandat the Duke de Rovigo’s—Biting Criticism—GreekChambers—“What’s in a Name?”—Custom of Burning Perfumes—ThePastille of the Seraglio—Turkish Cosmetics—EasternBeauty | [157] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
The Kourban-Baïram—Politeness of Mustafa Effendi—DepressingRecollections—Unquiet Night—Midnight March—Turkish Coffee—ALatticed Araba—The Mosque of Sultan Achmet—Beautiful coup-d’œil—Dressof the Turkish Children—Restlessness of the Franks—TheFestival of Sacrifice—Old Jewish Rite—The Turkish Wife—Sun-rise—Appearanceof the Troops—Turkish Ladies—Group ofField Officers—The Sultan’s Stud—Magnificent Trappings—TheSeraskier Pasha—The Great Officers of State—The Procession—TheSultan—Imperial Curiosity—The Chèïk-Islam—Costume of theSultan—Japanese Superstition—Vanity of Sultan Mahmoud—TheHairdresser of Halil Pasha—Rapid Promotion—Oriental Salutations—HalilPasha—Saïd Pasha—Unruly Horses—The Valley of the“Sweet Waters”—Pera | [171] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
The Military College—Achmet Pasha and Azmi Bey—Study of AzmiBey—His grateful Memories of England and the English—The Establishment—TheLithographic Presses—Extemporaneous Poetry—Hallsof Study—Number of Students—Mathematical Hall—TheSultan’s Gallery—The Mosque—The Mufti—The Turkish Creed—TheImperial Closet—The Gallery of the Imperial Suite—TheRetiring-Room—The Printing-Office—The Hospital—The Refectory—TheProfessor of Fortification—Negro Officers—Moral Conditionof the College—Courtesy of the Officers—Deficiencies of the Professors—TheTurks a Reading People—Object of the Institution—Reasonsof its Failure—Smiling Enemies—Forlorn Hope—RussianInfluence—Saduk Agha—Achmet Pasha—Azmi Bey—Apology formy Prolixity | [194] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
Invitation from Mustapha Pasha of Scodra—The Caïque, and theCaïquejhes—How to Travel in a Caïque—Hasty Glances—Self-Gratulation—Scutari—ImperialSuperstition—The Seraglio Point—DolmaBatchè—Beshiktash—The Turning Dervishes—Beglièrbey—TheKiosks—A Dilemma—A Ruined Palace—An Introduction—ATurkish Beauty—A Discovery—A New Acquaintance—TheBuyuk Hanoum—Fatiguing Walk—Palace of MustaphaPasha—The Harem—Turkish Dyes—Ceremonies of Reception—TurkishEstablishment—The Buyuk Hanoum—Turkish Chaplets—The Imperial Firman—Pearls, Rubies, and Emeralds—The FavouriteOdalique—Heyminè Hanoum—A Conversation on Politics—Scodra Pasha—Singular Coincidence—Convenience of the Turkish Kitchen—Luxuryof the Table—Coquetry of the Chibouk—Turkish Mode ofLighting the Apartments—Gentleness towards the Slaves—InterestingReminiscences—Domestic Details—Dilaram Hanoum—AParagraph on Pearls—A Turkish Mirror—A Summons—ScodraPasha—Motives for Revolt—The Imperial Envoy—Submission—ReadyWit of the Pasha’s Son—The Reception Room—PersonalAppearance of the Scodra Pasha—Inconvenient Courtesy—Conversationon England—Philosophy—Pleasant Dreams—The Plague-Smitten | [216] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
Procession of Betrothal—Preliminary Ceremonies—The Mantle of Mahomet—ThePalace of the Seraskier Pasha—The Palace Square—PicturesqueGroups—An Interior—Turkish Children—Oriental Curiosity—Costumeof the Turkish Children—Military Music—TheProcession—Hurried Departure of the Crowd—The Seraskier’sTower—The Fire Guard—Candidates for the Imperial Bride—ImperialExpedient—Saïd Pasha—Policy of the Seraskier—An Audience—TheBiter Bitten—Ingenious Ruse—Sublime Economy—BrilliantTraffic—The Danger of Delay—The Marriage Gifts—AnInteresting Interview | [255] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
Fine Scenery—The Coast of Asia—Turkish Cemeteries—The ImperialSeraï—The Golden Horn—Mount Olympus—The Arabajhe—TheAraba—The Persian Kiosk—The Barrack of Scutari—The Mosque ofSelim III.—The Slipper of the Sultana Validè—The Imperial Guard—MilitaryMaterial—The Macaroni Manufactory—Sublime Targets—AMajor of the Imperial Guard—Triumph of Utilitarianism—TheRise of the Vines—The Holy Tomb—Encampments of the Plague-smitten—TheSetting Sun—Return to Europe—The Square of Topphannè | [276] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
Turkish Superstitions—Auguries—The Court Astrologer—The EvilEye—Danger of Blue Eyes—Imperial Firman—The Babaluk—TheCeremony—Sable Pythonesses—Witchcraft | [289] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
Imperial Invitation—Disagreeable Adventure—Executed Criminal—Efficacyof Wayside Executions—Tardy Conversions—MistakenHumanity—Summary Mode of Execution—The Palace of AsmèSultane—Entrance of the Harem—Costume of the Slaves—NazipHanoum—Ceremonious Reception—The Adopted Daughter—Costumeof the Ladies of the Seraï—Beauty of the Slaves—ExtraordinaryArrangement—Rejected Addresses—The Imperial Lover—Sacrednessof Adoption in Turkey—Romantic Correspondence—Ladiesof the Household—The Mother of the Slaves—PeroussèHanoum—Crowded Audience—The Imperial Odalique—Music ofthe Harem—The New Pet—The Kislar-Agha—The “Light of theHarem”—The Poetical Sultan—Indisposition of the Sultana—ThePalace Gardens—The Imperial Apartments—The Dancing Girl—ReluctantDeparture—Ballad by Peroussè Hanoum | [298] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
Kahaitchana—The Barbyses—The Valley of the Sweet Waters—ImperialProcession—National Interdict—Picturesque Scene—ThePrincess Salihè and her Infant—Forbearance of the Sultan—TheToxopholites—Imperial Monopoly—Passion of the Sultan for Archery—Record-Columns—TheOdalique’s Grave—The Lost One—AzmèSultane—Imperial Courtesy—A Drive through the Valley | [321] |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
Easter with the Greeks—Greek Church at Pera—Women’s Gallery—Interiorof a Greek Church—The Sanctuary—The Screen—Throneof the Patriarch—The Holy Sepulchre—Singular Appearance of theCongregation—Sociability of the Ladies—L’Echelle des Morts—Shipping—Boatsand Boatmen—Church of the Fanar—AncientScreen—Treasure Chests—The Sanctuary—Private Chapels—APious Illumination—Priests’ House—Prison—Remedy against Mahomedanism—MidnightMass—Unexpected Greetings—The Patriarch—Logotheti—RussianSecretaries—Russian Supremacy inTurkey—Affinity of Religion between the Greeks and Russians—TheHomage—Pious Confusion—Patriarch’s Palace—Lovely Night-Scene—MidnightProcession—Serious Impressions—Suffocating Heat—Dawn | [332] |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
Feasting after Fasting—Visit to the Patriarch—Gorgeous Procession—InconvenientEnthusiasm—Indisposition of the Patriarch—The Ceremonyof Unrobing—The Impromptu Fair—The Patriarch at Home—TheGolden Eggs | [353] |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
High Street of Pera—Dangers and Donkeys—Travelling in anAraba—Fondness of the Orientals for their Cemeteries—Singular Spectacle—MoralSupineness of the Armenians—M. Nubar—The Fair—ArmenianDance—Anti-Exclusives—Water Venders—Being à laFranka—Wrestling Rings—The Battle of the Sects | [360] |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
The Mosques at Midnight—Baron Rothschild—Firmans and Orders—AProposition—Masquerading—St. Sophia by Lamplight—The Congregation—TheMosque of Sultan Achmet—Colossal Pillars—Returnto the Harem—The Chèïk-Islam—Count Bathiany—The Party—St.Sophia by Daylight—Erroneous Impression—Turkish Paradise—Pietyof the Turkish Women—The Vexed Traveller—Disappointment—Confusionof Architecture—The Sweating Stone—Women’sGallery—View from the Gallery—Gog and Magog at Constantinople—TheImpenetrable Door—Ancient Tradition—Leads of theMosque—Gallery of the Dome—The Doves—The Atmeidan—TheTree of Groans—The Mosque of Sultan Achmet—Antique Vases—HistoricalPulpit—The Inner Court—The Six Minarets—The Mosqueof Solimaniè—Painted Windows—Ground-plan of the PrincipalMosques—The Treasury of Solimaniè—Mausoleum of Solyman theMagnificent—Model of the Mosque at Mecca—Mausoleums in General—IndispensableAccessories—The Medresch—Mosque of SultanMahmoud at Topphannè | [373] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
Antiquities of Constantinople—Ismäel Effendi—The Atmeidan—TheObelisk—The Delphic Tripod—The Column of Constantine—TheTchernberlè Tasch—The Cistern of the Thousand and One Columns—TheBoudroum—The Roman Dungeons—Yèrè-Batan-Seraï—TheLost Traveller—Extent of the Cistern—Aqueduct of Justinian—Palaceof Constantine—Tomb of Heraclius—The Seven Towers—AnAmbassador in Search of Truth—Tortures of the Prison—ALegend of the Seven Towers | [405] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
Balouclè—The New Church—Delightful Road—Eyoub—The Cemetery—TheRebel’s Grave—The Mosque of Blood—The Hill of Graves—TheSeven Towers—The Palace of Belisarius—The City Walls—EasterFestivities—The Turkish Araba—The Armenian Carriage—Travellers—TurkishWomen—Seridjhes—Persians—IrregularTroops—The Plain of Balouclè—Laughable Mistake—ExtraordinaryDiscretion—The Church of Balouclè—The Holy Well—AbsurdTradition—The Chapel Vault—Enthusiasm of theGreeks—A Pleasant Draught—Greek Substitute for a Bell—ViolentStorm | [434] |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
Figurative Gratitude of the Seraskier Pasha—Eastern Hyperbole—Reminiscencesof Past Years—A Vision Realized—Strong Contrasts—TheMarriage Fêtes—Popular Excitement—Crowded Streets—TheAuspicious Day—Extravagant Expectations—The Great Cemetery—DolmaBatchè—The Grand Armoury—Turkish Women—Tentsof the Pashas—The Bosphorus—Preparations—Invocation—TheIlluminated Bosphorus—A Stretch of Fancy—A Painful Recollection—NaturalBeauties of the Bosphorus—The Grave-Yard—EveningAmusements—Well Conducted Population | [446] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
Repetition—The Esplanade—The Kiosk and the Pavilion—A ShortCut—Dense Crowd—A Friend at Court—Curious Coup d’Œil—TheArena—The Orchestra—First Act of the Comedy—DisgustingExhibition—The Birth of the Ballet—Dancing Boys—Second Actof the Drama—Insult to the Turkish Women—The Provost Marshal—YusufPasha, the Traitor—Clemency of the Sultan—Forbearanceof an Oriental Mob—Renewal of the Ballet—Last Act of the Drama—TheatricalDecorations—Watch-dogs and Chinese—Procession ofthe Trades—Frank Merchants—Thieves and Judges—BedouinTumblers—Fondness of the Pashas for Dancing—The Wise Men ofthe East | [460] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
Succession of Banquets—The Chèïk Islam and the Clergy—SectarianPrejudices—The Military Staff—The Naval Chiefs—The ImperialHousehold—The Pashas—The Grand Vizier—Magnificent Procession—NightScene on the Bosphorus—The Palace of the SeraskierPasha—Palace of Azmè Sultane—Midnight Serenade—Pretty Truants—TheShore of Asia—Ambassadorial Banquet—War Dance—BeautifulEffects of Light | [478] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
Monotonous Entertainments—Bridal Preparations—Common Interest—Appearanceof the Surrounding Country—Ride to Arnautkeui—Sight-lovingLadies—Glances and Greetings—Pictorial Grouping—TheProcession—The Trousseau—A Steeple-Chase | [488] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
The Bridal Day—Ceremony of Acceptance—The Crowd—The KislarAgha and the Court Astrologer—Order of the Procession—TheRussian Coach—The Pasha and the Attachés—The Seraskier—Wivesof the Pashas—The Sultan and the Georgian Slave | [500] |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
A New Rejoicing—Scholastic Processions—Change in the Valley—TheOdalique’s Grave—The Palace of Eyoub—The State Apartments—Returnto Pera | [509] |