"The Empress had been so kind as to inquire from the Queen of England what watering-place would suit us best. The latter replied by telegraph that her physician, Sir W. Jenner, recommended Eastbourne for Elisabeth 'and her husband.'
"When ladies of so high degree look after a watering-place for us, we ought certainly to reap the full benefit from our stay! We shall, therefore, probably go to Eastbourne or Hastings.
"One day is very much like another, and we live solely according to the 'Kur.'... These places in Bohemia are fortunately so accustomed to Royal visitors that a Queen and an Oriental Prince create very little stir."[17]
After paying a flying visit to the German Emperor at Eger the Prince and Princess arrived in London on August 19. The Marchioness of Lorne came to express the Queen's regret at her inability to receive the travellers, as she was about to set out for Scotland. The Prince of Wales and the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh welcomed Prince Charles and his wife with warm sympathy. The young Duchess of Edinburgh had changed greatly since the first time Prince Charles saw her at Livadia in 1869. Then she left the impression of a charming child, but now she appeared with all the character of a young mother.
During their three weeks' stay at St. Leonard's the Prince and Princess made many excursions to Brighton, Oxford, Woolwich, Chislehurst, and the neighbouring country seats of the nobility. The visit to Oxford, with Professor Max Müller as cicerone, was of especial interest to the Prince, who was much impressed by the ancient University, with its glorious colleges. By the courtesy of the Secretary of War, Gathorne Hardy, Prince Charles was able to make a minute inspection of the Woolwich Arsenal. The Prince was astonished to find that the heaviest naval guns for the British fleet were still built on the muzzle-loading principle, and endeavoured, without much success, to convince his guide, Major-General Simmons, of the advantages of the breechloading system.
Several very pleasant hours were spent at Lord Brassey's castle and on board his yacht. Lord Brassey had visited Roumania on several occasions, as he was interested in the Offenheim railway concession, and was, therefore, no stranger to the Prince. A couple of visits were also paid to Holmebury House to Lady Mary Anne Alford and her brother, Mr. Leveson-Gower, whose brother, Lord Granville, had formerly been in communication with Roumania as Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs.
"To Prince Charles Anthony.
"We shall commemorate in quiet and grief the birthday of our dear daughter on the 8th of September. She was the light of our home life. Now this anniversary will only teach us, as each year comes round, that this earthly life, with all its pleasures and sorrows, is but the preparation for a better life, and that, therefore, we must not cling too much to the things of this world. England by no means seems full of this sentiment. I believe that in no other country has materialism gone to such a length as here. People live solely to enjoy their lives—et voilà tout. Commerce and industry, therefore, flourish, which bring in money, and money is the essential requisite for English comfort!
"I discussed the social condition of England with Max Müller, and derived much benefit from the insight into the situation here which I owe to him.