The Perdue Chicken Cookbook

by Mitzi Perdue

If you grew up on canned, frozen, and dried soups, you may not realize how easy it is to make truly wonderful soups at home. If so, try it for yourself, perhaps with these American classics. All the soups are based on a key ingredient: rich, homemade chicken stock, made from either whole birds or from parts, in about three hours. Stock takes little tending, just slow easy cooking to bring out all the flavor and wholesome goodness. Why not try making one of these soups now? And then, with the help of your freezer, enjoy the results many times in the coming months. Basic Guide to Chicken Soup

_Older, larger birds, such as the 5-7 pound roasters, make the best soups. An older bird will have developed more of the rich, intense chickeny flavor than the younger, milder-flavored broilers or Cornish hens. I've made soup from broilers and while it wasn't bad, it wasn't as good as it could be.

_Use roaster parts if you want to save time. They cook faster and are excellent when you need only a small amount of broth. The richest flavor, by the way, comes from the muscles that are exercised most, which happen to be the dark meat muscles. All parts will make satisfactory soup, but the legs, thighs and necks provide the fullest flavor.

_For clear, golden broth, do not add liver. It turns stock cloudy. And avoid a greenish cast by using only parsley stems and the white parts of leeks or scallions.

_As the stock cooks down, foam will float to the top. Skim it off, or strain it out through double cheesecloth when the stock is complete. Tie herbs and greens in cheesecloth as a "bouquet garni," so you won't inadvertently remove them during the skimming.

_Always simmer stock over low to medium heat. It's not a good idea to boil the stock for the same reason it's not a good idea to boil coffee; too much of the flavor would boil away into the air. _Leftover vegetables and those past their prime are good pureed in cream soups. When thickening such recipes with egg, prevent curdling by stirring a cup of hot soup first into egg, then back into soup. Also, be careful to keep the soup from boiling once you've added the egg.

_Most soups develop better flavor if you'll store them, covered, in the refrigerator for a day or two. To seal in the flavor while you're storing the soup, don't remove the fat that's on top. When you're ready to serve the soup you can lift the congealed fat off as a sheet. To remove the last particles of fat, place unscented paper towel on the surface. Draw towel to one side and remove.

_When freezing stock, allow 1/2- to 1-inch head room in containers so soup can expand. Freeze some in quart- sized or larger containers for use in soups. Ladle the rest into ice cube trays or muffin cups for adding to vegetables, sauces, or gravies. Freeze and then transfer frozen stock cubes to a plastic bag or freezer container and keep frozen until ready to use.

_Soup may be stored in the refrigerator two or three days or frozen for three to four months. When reheating, make sure to bring the broth to a boil. Soups enriched with eggs are, unfortunately, not good candidates for reheating; they're apt to curdle. BASIC CHICKEN STOCK Makes about 8 cups If you need to, you can make the following substitutions for the roaster: 1 stewing hen or spent fowl (5-7 pounds); 2 fresh young chickens (2-4 pounds); or 6 pounds fresh chicken parts, preferably dark meat portions. (As I mentioned earlier, young chickens will not provide as rich a flavor as the older birds but the taste will still be good.) Cooking times for meat will vary from 3 hours for stewing hens or spent fowl, to 1-1/2 hours for 2 smaller birds to slightly less time for parts. In each case, time from beginning of simmer and return bones to stock for an additional 1/2 hour after you've removed the meat. Chicken stock is delicious served as a simple broth with herbs, shredded or julienne vegetables, slivers of meat, or rice. It also is the base from which countless other soups are made. 1 roaster (5-7 pounds) chicken giblets, except liver 1 large bay leaf 2 whole cloves 1 teaspoon white peppercorns 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried 4 quarts water or enough to cover chicken generously 1 cup dry white wine, optional 2 medium onions, quartered 2 large carrots, sliced 2 ribs celery, sliced 1 leek, white part only, cleaned and sliced, optional 1 bunch fresh parsley, stems only 1 teaspoon salt or to taste Remove giblets from roaster and discard bird-watcher thermometer, if it has one. Place roaster along with giblets in a large stockpot (8 to 10 quarts) or other large sauce pot. Wrap bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, and thyme in cheesecloth as bouquet garni; tie closed with string. Add to stockpot along with remaining ingredients. Cover pot and simmer over medium-low heat for 2-1/2 hours or until meat is tender. Carefully skim stock from time to time with a ladle or spoon to remove fat particles and foam. To check roaster for doneness, pull back a leg or cut into meat close to bone; it is cooked when no pink color remains in meat. Remove pieces with a slotted spoon. Cut away meat from bones and return bones to stock; simmer 30 minutes longer. (See Chapter 10: Cooking with Leftovers for uses for the cooked meat.) Strain stock through a fine sieve. If you want, prepare in advance to this point and refrigerate or freeze. Skim off top fat before using. To make a soup, bring as much stock as needed to a simmer. Then follow the soup recipe, adding chicken, vegetables, thickeners, seasonings, and garnishes. CHICKEN-IN-EVERY-POT SOUPServes 4-6 For the best flavor, use fresh vegetables, varying them according to the season. Speaking of fresh vegetables, do you know how to tell a good carrot? Look at the "crown," (that's the stem end). If the crown is turning brown or black or has regrowth visible where the stem was, you've got a carrot that's been around awhile. If the crown and shoulders are a bright orange, you've got a nice, fresh carrot. 1 cup potatoes, cut in 1/2-inch cubes 4 cups chicken broth 1/4 cup dry sherry 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1 cup onions, halved and thinly sliced 1 cup carrots, in 1/4-inch by 2-inch sticks 1 cup celery, in 1/4-inch by 2-inch sticks 1 cup fresh or frozen green beans, in 2-inch pieces 2 cups cooked chicken, in 1/4-inch by 2-inch julienne strips 1 cup zucchini, in 1/4-inch by 2-inch sticks Place potatoes in a saucepan with enough salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook potatoes 5 minutes; drain, rinse under cold water and set aside. In large saucepan over medium-high heat, bring broth and sherry to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Add onions, carrots, and celery and simmer 5 minutes. Stir in green beans and chicken and heat soup to boiling. Add zucchini and potatoes and simmer 1 minute longer or until vegetables are as tender as you like them. Variation: Chicken Minestrone Add 1 cup chopped stewed tomatoes in their juice and 2 cups cooked, drained fusilli or other pasta and 1/2-cup cooked kidney beans when adding zucchini and potatoes. Stir in 1/2-cup grated Parmesan cheese just before serving. Other fresh vegetables may be added according to their cooking times. Minestrone happens to be one of Frank's favorites, although he skips the cheese because of its cholesterol. NEW ENGLAND CHICKEN 'N' CORN CHOWDERServes 4-6 Chowders are thick soups which take their name from the large French pot used in soup-making called a "chaudiere." You can use fresh corn in this recipe, but I deliberately suggested frozen corn first because frozen corn can actually taste sweeter and fresher than the fresh corn you buy at the supermarket. Corn loses 50% of its sweetness in just 24 hours at room temperature, and it can take days for corn to get from the fields to the supermarket to your house. In contrast, frozen corn is rushed from the fields to the freezer in just a few hours, and once frozen, it stops losing its sweetness. Strange as it may seem, with corn, frozen can taste fresher than fresh. 1/4 pound bacon or salt pork, diced 1 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped celery 4 cups chicken broth 2 cups peeled potatoes, cut in 1/2-inch cubes 1 package (10 ounces) frozen corn or kernels from 2 ears of corn 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 2 cups cooked, diced chicken 1 cup (1/2-pint) heavy cream Oyster crackers, for garnish In large saucepan over medium-high heat, saute bacon for 3 minutes until its fat has been rendered. Add onions and celery and cook 3 minutes longer. Stir in broth and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Add potatoes and corn, season with salt and pepper and cook 5 to 10 minutes or until tender. Stir in chicken and cream, simmer 3 minutes and serve with oyster crackers. Variation: Shellfish Chowder Add 1 cup chopped green pepper and 1 cup cooked crab or shrimp to soup when adding chicken.

HEARTY LANCASTER CHICKEN, VEGETABLE AND DUMPLING SOUP Serves 4 This is a famous Pennsylvania summer soup made with extra vegetables for hearty winter eating. You can substitute noodles for the dumplings, or add crackers, pretzels $ and some people have told me that even popcorn works. I'm skeptical about the popcorn, but if you're feeling adventurous, give it a try. 6 cups chicken broth 2 cups cooked, diced chicken 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1/2 cup parboiled potatoes, cut in 1/2-inch cubes 1/2 cup parboiled carrots, cut in 1/2-inch pieces 1/2 cup shredded green cabbage 1 cup thinly-sliced leek, white and tender green parts only, or 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 package (10-ounces) frozen corn kernels from 2 ears of corn Knepp In large saucepan over high heat, bring broth to a boil. Add other ingredients and reduce heat to low. Simmer for 3 minutes while making dumplings. Knepp (Little Dumplings) 1 egg 3/4 cup flour 1/3 cup water 1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon baking powder Pinch ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon minced, fresh parsley, optional garnish In small bowl, beat egg; stir in flour, water, salt, baking powder, and nutmeg. Drop batter by half teaspoons into the simmering soup. When dumplings rise to top, stir in parsley and serve. Variation: Chicken Spinach Straciatella Omit dumplings. Clean and stem 1/2 pound fresh spinach; stack and cut into 1/2-inch strips. Whisk together 2 eggs with 1/2-cup grated Parmesan cheese. Stir in spinach with chicken, then heat soup just to boiling. Immediately pour in the egg mixture in a thin stream, while stirring. The goal is to end up with thread-like strands of cooked egg. Cook until soup simmers again; stir gently just before serving.