Columbus Day has been a national holiday in this country since 1971. Its first official celebration, however, dates to 1792, the three hundredth anniversary of the exploration that brought Columbus and a crew of 120 sailors to the New World. The 1792 celebration took place in New York City, where today's Italian-American population equals the population of Genoa.

The first Columbus Day celebration included a gala banquet$a thoroughly appropriate way to mark the event that changed the eating habits of the Old World forever. The enriching exchange of foods between the Old and New World affected all the cuisines of Europe, but none more than that of Italy. Imagine Italian cuisine without tomatoes or peppers or corn.

To many of us "eating Italian" is a favorite experience, and what could be a better excuse for a "festa Italiana" than "Cristoforo Colombo Day". Here's a complete menu for just such a holiday dinner. In fact, it could be two dinners, because there's a choice of main courses one with the color, spice and flare of southern Italy, the other with the rich creaminess of the North.

Because large numbers of immigrants came from southern Italy, especially from Naples and Sicily, lively southern Italian dishes are most familiar to Americans. These typically include tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, spices such as cinnamon, raisins, and olives. Layered pastas and pizza come from the South.

In the North, foods are lighter, more varied, and are frequently delicate in flavor. Many dishes call for butter, cream or cheese, and filled pasta and rice are also served. Chicken is suited to either style of cooking, and boneless Oven Stuffer Roaster thigh meat is as delicious with a spicy tomato sauce as with wine and cream. In all parts of Italy, fresh vegetables, fruit, and herbs are important. Columbus' own city of Genoa is most closely associated with the use of fresh basil.

Whether inspired by the North or the South, Columbus Day is a time to wave the flags, both our red, white and blue and the Italian red, white and green, and to salute Christopher Columbus with a meal to remember. REGIONAL ITALIAN COLUMBUS DAY MENU Antipasto *Brodo Genovese *Chicken and Eggplant Agrodolce Siciliana *"Rice Birds" Piedmontese in Wine and Cream Sauce Broccoli Florets Parmigiano Crusty Italian Bread *Coppa Cristoforo Colombo Cafe Espresso *Recipe follows BRODO GENOVESE: CHICKEN BROTH WITH PASTA, CHEESE AND BASILServes 6-8 7 cups homemade chicken stock or 4 cans (13-3/4-ounces each) chicken broth 1 cup small pasta such as tubetti (tiny tubes), farfalle (bow ties) or conchiglie (shells) 1/4 cup minced fresh basil or Italian parsley 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In large saucepan or Dutch oven over high heat, bring chicken stock to a boil. Add pasta and cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes. To serve, ladle hot soup into bowls; sprinkle with basil and pass grated cheese.

CHICKEN AND EGGPLANT AGRODOLCE SCICILIANAServes 6-8 1 large eggplant (about 1-1/2 pounds), cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes 8 roaster boneless thigh cutlets Salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 - 3/4 cup olive oil, divided 2 cups sliced red onions 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar or red wine vinegar 4 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons honey Grated rind of 2 oranges 1 can (16-ounces) whole plum tomatoes, drained and cut into thin strips Minced, fresh parsley and basil (optional)

Sprinkle eggplant with salt; let stand 30 minutes to extract liquid; rinse and pat dry. Trim off any fat from thighs and cut into 2-inch pieces.

Preheat oven to 350oF. In large heavy skillet over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add chicken, half at a time; saute 2 to 3 minutes until lightly browned, adding more oil if necessary. Remove pieces with slotted spoon to large, covered casserole or baking dish. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons oil to skillet; stir in eggplant and cook 5 minutes until golden, adding more oil if necessary. Add to casserole.