George and Martha Washington made much of Christmas. They had been married on the twelfth night of Christmas in 1759, and from that year forward they tried to be together for the holidays. (The exceptions were such occasions as Christmas 1776, when General Washington was busy crossing the Delaware.) Two of the food specialists at Perdue are history buffs as well, an they put together for Frank a Christmas menu based on "receipts" (as recipes were once called) for dishes that might have been enjoyed at Christmas dinner, two hundred years ago.
As they pointed out, even basic food supplies were very different two centuries ago. American waters were so abundant with crabs, oysters, shrimp and clams, that inventive cooks tossed them into soups and spreads, baked them "potted," "scalloped" or in loaves, and used them lavishly in sauces and stuffings. The oyster stuffing included in this menu is based on a specialty of George Washington's mother. She may have served it with passenger pigeon $common fare in those days. Although this wild bird is extinct today, Cornish game hens make tasty, tender, modern substitutes. And it is far easier to "bag a brace" or two of Cornish hens at the local supermarket than to stalk dinner in the wild.
Early Americans weren't partial to vegetables. They tended to overcook and under season them, then serve them up as a "mess of pease". But old-time cooks did make wonderful vegetable puddings and were superb at pickling and preserving their vegetables and fruits to serve all winter long.
From the beginning, American settlers distilled spirits. Even the stern Pilgrims (who considered the celebration of Christmas pagan) drank wine and cider for their health. After a festive holiday meal, most of our founding fathers probably enjoyed a few rounds of Madeira or Port. But Thomas Jefferson's favorite holiday drink was a spicy mixture of hot ale and rum, so heat producing it was called "a yard of flannel". Frothy syllabub was thought to be suitable for everyone, even women and children, and this rich drink was a delicious accompaniment to sweetmeats, stewed fruit, cakes or pies.
Though few would wish to return to cooking at the hearth and beehive oven, if you're smitten by the romance of the past, try serving special guests a Christmas dinner Martha Washington-style.
PHOTO: "An Early American holiday menu with Cornish hens" An Early American Christmas Dinner for Four Potted Crab *Cornish Hens with Oyster Stuffing Mount Vernon *Sherried Pan Gravy Savory Grated-Carrot Christmas Pudding Pickled Beet Salad *"Whipt" Syllabub with Sweetmeats *Recipe follows CORNISH HENS WITH OYSTER STUFFING MOUNT VERNON AND SHERRIED PAN GRAVYServes 4 4 fresh Cornish game hens Salt and ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons butter or margarine, divided 6 oysters, shucked, coarsely chopped, and strained through a fine sieve or coffee filter (reserve oyster liquor) Pinch ground mace 3/4 teaspoon minced, fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried 1/4 cup chopped onion 2-3 slices day-old bread, cubed 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons dry sherry, divided Spiced or brandied fruit for garnish (optional)
Preheat oven to 350oF. Season hens inside and out with salt and pepper.
In medium-sized skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter with 1/2 cup oyster liquor, mace and thyme. Add onion; cook 5 minutes until onion is tender and liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup.
In medium-sized bowl, toss onion mixture with oysters, bread cubes, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sherry.
Spoon oyster stuffing loosely into hens. Tie legs together and fold back wings.