Such a lovely day! The Forth looked perfect as we steamed up to our harbour anchorage. The grand hills and rocks and the fine old Castle were a contrast to poor little Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. The pretty town, and the trees, how we enjoyed the sight of the latter, for we had seen no trees for weeks, and their green looked most pleasing amongst the stone buildings.
How busy, how civilised everything appeared! When will trains and carts traverse the Northern Isle we had just left? Oh, but where are the emigrants? Let us go and watch their surprised faces as they catch the first glimpse of this new scene. We went, and were sorely disappointed. They were merely standing together with their backs to the view, putting on their boots, or occupied about minor matters, taking no notice whatever of their surroundings, and receiving no new impressions. It must require a civilised mind, we suppose, to appreciate civilisation, just as it requires talent to appreciate talent.[p. 146]
Below is a table of our expenditure during our trip, which may perhaps prove of service to one wishing to enjoy an uncommon autumn holiday:—
Five people travelling together for twenty-five days disbursed each £20, 1s. 8d.
| Passage Money round Island and return, | £8 | 3 | 0 |
| Food, 6s. 6d. a day, | 6 | 3 | 0 |
| Steward, 10s. | 0 | 10 | 0 |
| Food taken from London, £2, 10s., or 10s. each, | 0 | 10 | 0 |
| Four days' ride to Geysers; two nightsThingvalla; ponies, guides, tents,sods, pasturage for ponies; milk,coffee, etc., | 4 | 0 | 0 |
| Akureyri; going ashore, dinner, pony, etc., | 0 | 6 | 10 |
| Sauderkrok;"skyr, coffee, etc., | 0 | 6 | 0 |
| Bordeyri;"""" | 0 | 5 | 10 |
| £20 | 1 | 8 | |
| Wine not included. | |||
| Purchases, photos, washing, stamps, and other individual personal expenses extra. | |||
CHAPTER XII.
VOLCANOES.
In the foregoing pages it may seem strange that hardly any allusion has been made to the special characteristic of Iceland, viz., its volcanic structure, or to the numerous lava floods which, bursting forth in furious molten streams, have from time to time devastated its surface, leaving in their track a chaos of disrupted rocks, chasms, vast fissures, and subterranean caverns.