| PRELUDE. |
| FIRST IMPRESSIONS. |
| PAGE |
| Arriving in Shanghai.—My First Tea-season.—Inside a Chinese City.—ShanghaiGardens.—In the Romantic East at last! | [1] |
| CHAPTER I. |
| ON THE UPPER YANGTSE. |
| Boat-travel.—Vegetation.—Trackers.—Terrace of the Sun.—GoldDiamond Mountain.—Meng Liang's Ladder.—Great Szechuan Road.—SteamerVoyage.—Chinese Hades.—Caves | [31] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| A LAND JOURNEY. |
| Large Farmsteads.—Wedding Party.—Atoning for an Insult.—RowdyLichuan.—Old-fashioned Inn.—Dog's Triumphal Progress.—FreeFight.—Wicked Music.—Poppy-fields.—Bamboo Stream | [58] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| LIFE IN A CHINESE CITY. |
| Arrangement of a Chinese House.—Crowd in Streets.—My First Walkin Chungking City.—Presents.—Cats, Rats, and Eggs.—Paying aCall.—Ladies Affectionate.—Shocked at European Indecency.—Costof Freight.—Distance by Post.—Children's Pleasures.—Precautionsduring Drought.—Guild Gardens.—Pretty Environs.—OpiumFlowers, and Smokers.—Babble of Schools.—ChineseGirl-child | [74] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| HINDRANCES AND ANNOYANCES. |
| Sulphur Bath.—Rowdy Behaviour.—Fight in Boat.—Imprisonment forletting to Foreigners.—Book-keeper in Foreign Employ beaten.—CustomsRegulations.—Kimberley Legacy.—Happy Consul.—UnjustLikin Charges.—Foreigners massacred.—Official Responsibility | [98] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| CURRENT COIN IN CHINA. |
| Taels.—Dollars.—Exchange.—Silver Shoes.—Foreign Mints | [120] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| FOOTBINDING. |
| Not a Mark of Rank.—Golden Lilies.—Hinds' Feet.—Bandages drawntighter.—Breaking the Bones.—A Cleft in which to hide Half aCrown.—Mothers sleep with Sticks beside them.—How manydie.—How many have all their Toes.—Feet drop off.—Paintill Death.—Typical Cases.—Eczema, Ulceration, Mortification.—GeneralHealth affected | [134] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| ANTI-FOOTBINDING. |
| Church Mission's Action.—American Mission's Action.—T`ien Tsu Hui.—ChineseLadies' Drawing-room Meeting.—Suifu Appeal.—Kang,the Modern Sage.—Duke Kung.—Appeal to the Chinese People | [145] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| THE POSITION OF WOMEN. |
| Official Honours to Women.—Modesty.—Conjugal Relations.—BusinessKnowledge.—Opium-smoking.—Typical Women | [164] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| BIRTHS, DEATHS, AND MARRIAGES. |
| Missing Bride.—Wedding Reception.—Proxy Marriage.—Servants'Weddings.—Love for Wives.—Killing a Husband.—Wifely Affection.—ChineseBabies.—Securing a Funeral | [184] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| CHINESE MORALS. |
| How Chinese look upon Shanghai.—A Viceroy's Expedient.—Method ofraising Subscriptions.—Deserving Deities.—Trustworthiness.—HunanHero.—Marrying English Girls | [197] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| SUPERSTITIONS. |
| Fung shui.—Devastating Eggs.—Demon Possession.—Sacred Trees.—HeavenlySilk.—Ladder of Swords.—Preserving only Children.—Godof Literature on Ghosts.—God of War.—Reverence forAncestors | [211] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| OUR MISSIONARIES. |
| European Prejudice.—French Fathers.—Italian Sisters.—Prize-giving.—Anti-ChristianTracts.—Chinese Saints and Martyrs | [230] |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| UP-COUNTRY SHOPPING AND UP-COUNTRY WAYS. |
| Buying Curios.—Being stoned.—Chinese New Year.—Robbers.—ProtestingInnocence.—Doing Penance.—Medicines | [253] |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| SOLDIERS. |
| Tiger Soldiers.—Woosung Drill.—General's Gallantry.—Japanese War.—AdmiralTing.—Dominoes with a Sentry.—Viceroy's Review | [269] |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| CHINESE STUDENTS. |
| Number of Degrees.—Aged Bachelors.—Up for Examination.—NecessaryQualifications.—Crowding.—Scarcity of Posts.—Chinese Dress | [292] |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| A FATHER'S ADVICE TO HIS SON. |
| Tseng Kuo Fan.—"Neither envious nor fawning."—Repose of Manner.—Cultivationof Land.—Early Rising, Diligence in Business, andPerseverance.—Dignity.—Family Worship.—Reading | [317] |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| BUDDHIST MONASTERIES. |
| Monastery near Ichang.—For the Dead.—Near Ningpo.—BuddhistService.—T`ien Dong.—Omi Temples.—Sai King Shan.—Monasteryof the Particoloured Cliff | [327] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| A CHINESE ORDINATION. |
| Crowd.—Nuns.—Final Shaving.—Woven Paces.—Burning Heads.—Relationships.—ALiving Picture | [350] |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| THE SACRED MOUNTAIN OF OMI. |
| Luncheon with a Chief Priest.—Tigers.—Mysterious Lights.—The Viewof a Lifetime.—Pilgrims.—Glory of Buddha.—Unburied Priests | [362] |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| CHINESE SENTIMENT. |
| In Memory of a Dead Wife.—Of a Dear Friend.—Farewell Verses.—ÆstheticFeeling.—Drinking Song.—Music.—Justice to Rats | [383] |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| A SUMMER TRIP TO CHINESE TIBET. |
| Drying Prayerbooks Mountain.—Boys' Paradise.—Lolo Women.—Salt-carriers.—GreatRains.—Brick-tea Carriers.—Suspension Bridge.—GraniteMountains.—Tibetan Bridge.—Lamas.—Tibetan Women.—Caravanseraiat Tachienlu.—Beautiful Young Men.—Lamaserai.—Prayers?—FierceDogs.—Dress.—Trying for a Boat | [396] |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| ARTS AND INDUSTRIES. |
| Porcelain.—Bronzes.—Silver-work.—Pictures.—Architecture.—Tea.—Silk.—WhiteWax.—Grass-cloth.—Ivory Fans.—Embroidery | [425] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| A LITTLE PEKING PUG. |
| Enjoyment.—Anticipation.—Regret | [446] |