Plate LXXIX.
Mary Sidney, Countess of Pembroke, in 1614. 1555?—1621.—Probably by Marc Gheeraedts. National Portrait Gallery.
Photo by Walker and Cockerell.
To face page 316.
The ruffs of the City ladye were kept downe by the old sumptuary law of Elizabeth.
"See, now, that you have not your 'city ruff' on, Mistress Sue," says Mistress Simple in the City Match.[[905]]
The Overbury murder (1613), and hanging of Mrs. Turner at Tyburn in 1615, are usually said, on the authority of Howel,[[906]] to have put an end to the fashion of yellow ruffs, but the following extracts show they were worn for some years later.
As late as 1620 the yellow starch, supposed to give a rich hue to the lace and cut-work of which ruffs were "built," gave scandal to the clergy. The Dean of Westminster ordered no lady or gentleman wearing yellow ruffs to be admitted into any pew in his church; but finding this "ill taken," and the King "moved in it," he ate his own words, and declared it to be all a mistake.[[907]] This fashion, again, gave great offence even in France. Since the English[[908]] alliance, writes the Courtisane à la Mode, 1625,[[909]] "cette mode Anglaise sera cause qu'il pourra advenir une cherté sur le safran qui fera que les Bretons et les Poitevins seront contraints de manger leur beurre blanc et non pas jaune, comme ils sont accoutumés."
The Bishops, who first denounced the ruff, themselves held to the fashion long after it had been set aside by all other professions. Folks were not patriotic in their tastes, as in more modern days; they loved to go "as far as Paris to fetch over a fashion and come back again."[[910]]