The narrowest guipures were called "Têtes de More."[[113]]
The less cartisane in the guipure, the more it was esteemed, for cartisane was not durable, being only vellum covered over with silk. It was easily affected by the damp, shrivelled, would not wash, and the pattern was destroyed. Later, the parchment was replaced by a cotton material called canetille.
Savary says that most of the guipures were made in the environs of Paris;[[114]] that formerly, he writes in 1720, great quantities were consumed in the kingdom; but since the fashion had passed away, they were mostly exported to Spain, Portugal, Germany, and the Spanish Indies, where they were much worn.[[115]]
Guipure was made of silk, gold and silver; from its costliness, therefore, it was only worn by the rich.
Plate VIII.
Italian, Venetian, Flat Needle-point Lace. "Punto in Aria."—The design is held together by plain "brides." Date, circ. 1645. Width, 11⅝ in.
Victoria and Albert Museum.
Plate IX.
