History of Lace

by Mrs. Bury Palliser

M. Jourdain.

Alice Dryden.

London, September, 1901.

CONTENTS

I.—	[Needlework]	[1]
II.—	[Cut-work]	[14]
III.—	[Lace]	[26]
IV.—	[Italy.—Venice—Milan ("Milano la Grande")—Florence—The Abruzzi—Romagna—Naples—Genoa ("Genova La Superba")—Cantu—Sicily]	[45]
V.—	[Greece—Crete—Turkey—Malta]	[82]
VI.—	[Spain—Portugal]	[90]
VII.—	[Flanders—Brussels (Brabant)—Mechlin—Antwerp—Flanders (West)—Flanders (East)—Hainault]	[109]
VIII.—	[France to Louis XIV.]	[139]
IX.—	[Louis XIV.]	[150]
X.—	[Louis XIV.—continued]	[161]
XI.—	[Louis XV.]	[171]
XII.—	[Louis XVI. to the Empire]	[179]
XIII.—	[The Lace Manufactures of France—Alençon (Dép. Orne), Normandy]	[188]
XIV.—	[Argentan (Dép. Orne)]	[202]
XV.—	[Isle de France.—Paris (Dép. Seine)—Chantilly (Dép. Oise)]	[209]
XVI.—	[Normandy—Seine Inférieure—Calvados—Bretagne]	[216]
XVII.—	[Valenciennes (Dép. du Nord)—Lille (Dép. du Nord)—Arras (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)—Bailleul (Dép. du Nord)]	[230]
XVIII.—	[Auvergne and Vélay—Le Puy (Dép. Haute-Loire)—Aurillac and Murat (Dép. Cantal)]	[242]
XIX.—	[Limousin—Lorraine—Champagne—Burgundy—Lyonnois—Orléanois—Berry—Poitou]	[250]
XX.—	[Holland, Germany, Switzerland, Austria and Hungary—Holland—Saxony—Germany (North and South)—Switzerland]	[258]
XXI.—	[Denmark—Sweden—Russia]	[272]
XXII.—	[England To Queen Elizabeth]	[285]
XXIII.—	[Queen Elizabeth]	[299]
XXIV.—	[James I. to the Restoration.—James I.—Charles I.—The Commonwealth]	[315]
XXV.—	[Charles II. to the House of Hanover.—Charles II.—James II.—William III.—Queen Anne]	[335]
XXVI.—	[George I.—George II.]	[351]
XXVII.—	[Smuggling]	[358]
XXVIII.—	[George III.]	[363]
XXIX.—	[The Lace Manufactures of England]	[371]
XXX.—	[Bedfordshire—Buckinghamshire—Northamptonshire—Suffolk]	[375]
XXXI.—	[Wiltshire and Dorsetshire]	[395]
XXXII.—	[Devonshire—Honiton—Trolly Lace—Japan]	[399]
XXXIII.—	[Scotland]	[418]
XXXIV.—	[Lace Manufactures of Scotland]	[428]
XXXV.—	[Ireland]	[435]
XXXVI.—	[Bobbin Net and Machine-Made Lace—Bobbin Net—France—Belgium—Machinery Lace]	[447]
APPENDIX		[459]
GLOSSARY OF TERMS		[503]
INDEX		[507]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Anne, Daughter of Sir Peter Vanlore, Kt.	Frontispiece
Gold Lace found in a barrow	Fig. 1	[4]
Argentan.—Circular Bobbin Réseau; Venetian Needlepoint	Plate I	[12]
Italian Bobbin Réseau; Six-pointed Star-meshed Bobbin Réseau; Brussels Bobbin Réseau; Fond Chant of Chantilly and Point de Paris; Details of Bobbin Réseau and Toile; Details of Needle Réseau and Buttonhole Stitches	Plate II	[14]
Point Coupé	Fig. 2	[18]
Altar or Table-cloth of Fine Linen (probably Italian)	Plate III	[18]
Laces	Fig. 3	[19]
Elizabethan Sampler	" 5	[22]
Impresa of Queen Margaret of Navarre	" 4	[23]
Spider-work	Figs. 6, 7	[24]
Fan Made at Burano	Plate IV	[24]
Italian Punto Reale	" V	[24]
Grande Dantelle au Point devant l'Aiguille	Fig. 8	[28]
Petite Dantelle	Figs. 9-12	[29]
Passement au Fuseau	Figs. 13, 14	[30]
Passement au Fuseau	Fig. 15	[31]
Merletti a Piombini	" 16	[31]
Italian.—Modern Reproduction at Burano	Plate VI	[32]
Heraldic (Carnival Lace)	" VII	[32]
Old Mechlin	Fig. 17	[35]
Italian, Venetian, Flat Needle-point Lace	Plate VIII	[36]
Portion of a Band of Needle-point Lace	" IX	[36]
Guipure	Fig. 18	[39]
Tape Guipure	" 19	[40]
Italian.—Point de Venise à la Rose	Plate X	[44]
Italian.—Point Plat de Venise	" IXI	[46]
Italian.—Point de Venise à Réseau	" XII	[48]
Mermaid Lace	Fig. 20	[50]
Reticella	" 21	[50]
Punto a Gropo	" 22	[52]
Gros Point de Venise	" 23	[52]
Punto a Maglia	" 24	[53]
Punto Tirato	" 25	[54]
Point de Venise à Bredes Picotées	" 26	[54]
Venise Point	" 27	[55]
Gros Point de Venise	" 28	[56]
Point de Venise	" 29	[56]
Point Plat de Venise	" 30	[56]
Point de Venise à Réseau	" 31	[58]
Burano Point	" 32	[60]
Italian.—Modern Point de Burano	Plate XIII	[60]
Italian.—Modern Reproduction at Burano	" XIV	[62]
Italian.—Milanese, Bobbin-made	" IXV	[64]
Reticella from Milan	Fig. 33	[65]
Italian.—Venetian, Needle-made	Plate XVI	[66]
Italian.—Milanese, Bobbin-made	" XVII	[66]
Unfinished Drawn-work	Fig. 34	[69]
Cushion made at the School	Plate XVIII	[70]
Italy.—Group of Workers at Brazza School	" XIX	[70]
Genoa Point, Bobbin-made	Fig. 35	[74]
Lace Pattern found in the Church at Santa Margherita	" 36	[76]
Italian.—Bobbin Tape With Needle-made Réseau	Plate XX	[76]
Italian, Genoese.—Border	" XXI	[76]
Parchment Pattern used to cover a Book	Fig. 37	[77]
Fringed Macramé	" 38	[80]
Italian.—Old Peasant Laces, Bobbin-made	Plates XXII, XXIII	[80]
Italian.—Modern Peasant Lace	Plate XXIV	[80]
Silk Gimp Lace	Fig. 39	[84]
Sicilian.—Old Drawn-work	Plate XXV	[84]
South Italian	" XXVI	[84]
Reticella, or Greek Lace	Fig. 40	[85]
Loubeaux de Verdale	" 41	[88]
Italian, Rapallo—Modern Peasant Lace	Plate XXVII	[88]
Maltese.—Modern Bobbin-made	" XXVIII	[88]
Bobbin Lace (Ceylon)	Fig. 42	[89]
The Work Room (16th century engraving)	" 43	[91]
Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun	" 44	[94]
Spanish.—Modern Thread Bobbin Lace	Plate XXIX	[94]
Spanish, Blonde.—White Silk Darning on Machine Net	" XXX	[94]
Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun	Fig. 45	[95]
Unfini"hed Work"of a Span"	" 46	[96]
Old Spanish Pillow Lace	" 47	[100]
Portrait, Duchesse de Montpensier	Plate XXXI	[100]
Jewish	" IXXXII	[104]
Spanish	" XXXIII	[104]
Bobbin Lace (Madeira)	Fig. 48	[106]
Bobbin"Lace (Brazil)	" 49	[107]
Spanish.—Pillow-made 19th Century	Plate XXXIV	[108]
Paraguay.—"Nauduti"	" XXXV	[108]
Lace-making	Fig. 50	[110]
Flemish.—Portion of Bed-Cover	Plate XXXVI	[110]
Cap of Emperor Charles V.	Fig. 51	[112]
Isabella Clara Eugenia, Daughter of Philip II.	" 52	[112]
Mary, Queen of Hungary, Cuff	" 53	[113]
Belgian Lace School	" 54	[114]
Old Flemish Bobbin Lace	" 55	[114]
Old Flemish.—Trolle Kant	" 56	[115]
Brussels.—Point d'Angleterre à Brides	Plate XXXVII	[116]
Flemish.—Tape Lace, Bobbin-made	" XXXVIII	[116]
Brussels Needle-Point	Fig. 57	[118]
Brussel" Needle-"	" 58	[120]
Brussels.—Point à l'Aiguille	" 58	A	[120]
Old Brussels.—Point d'Angleterre	" 59	[122]
Old Br"ssels.—P"int d'Ang"	" 60	[124]
Mechlin, 17th and 18th Century	Plate XXXIX	[126]
Mechlin.—Period Louis XVI.	Fig. 61	[127]
Mechlin, formerly belonging to H.M. Queen Charlotte	" 62	[128]
Mechlin.—Three Specimens From Victoria and Albert Museum	Plate XL	[128]
A Lady of Antwerp	Fig. 63	[130]
Antwerp Pot Lace	" 64	[130]
Valenciennes Lace of Ypres	" 65	[132]
Flemish.—Flat Spanish Bobbin Lace	Plate XLI	[132]
Flemish.—Guipure de Flandre	" VXLII	[134]
Belgian.—Bobbin-made, Binche	" IXLIII	[136]
Belgia".—Bobbi"-made, Marche	" IXLIV	[136]
Drawn and Embroidered Muslin, Flemish	" IIXLV	[136]
Ruff, Edged With Lace	" IXLVI	[142]
Brussels.—Flounce, Bobbin-made	" XLVII	[144]
Cinq-Mars.—M. de Versailles	Fig. 66	[145]
Cinq"Mars.—After his portrait by Le Wain	" 67	[146]
Lace Rose and Garter	" 68	[147]
Young Lady's Apron, time of Henry III	" 69	[148]
Brussels.—Bobbin-made, Period Louis XIV.	Plate XLVIII	[150]
Bru"els.—Point d'Angleterre à Réseau	" XLIX	[150]
Anne of Austria	Fig. 70	[151]
A Courtier of the Regency	" 71	[152]
Canons of Louis XIV	" 72	[154]
Chateau de Louvai	" 73	[156]
Chenille Run on a Bobbin-ground	Plate L	[156]
Brussels.—Bobbin-made	" LI	[156]
Le Grand Bébé	Fig. 74	[162]
Louvois, 1691	" 75	[163]
Madame de Maintenon	" 76	[164]
Lady in Morning déshabille	" 77	[165]
Le Grand Dauphin en Steinkerque	" 78	[168]
Madame du Lude en Steinkerque	" 79	[168]
Madame Palatine	" 80	[169]
Brussels.—Modern Point de Gaze	Plate LII	[170]
Madame Sophie de France, 1782	Fig. 81	[175]
Madame Adélaide de France	" 82	[176]
Madame Louise de France	Plate LIII	[176]
Madame Thérèse	Fig. 83	[177]
Marie-Antoinette	" 84	[179]
Madame Adélaide de France	" 85	[182]
French.—Border of Point Plat de France	Plate LIV	[188]
Colbert, + 1683	Fig. 86	[189]
Venice Point	" 87	[191]
French.—Point d'Alençon	Plate LV	[192]
Argentella, or Point d'Alençon à Réseau Rosacé	Fig. 88	[194]
Bed made for Napoleon I.	" 89	[197]
Alençon Point à Petites Bredes	" 90	[200]
Point d'Alençon, Louis XV.	" 91	[200]
Point d'Alençon. Flounce	Plate LVI	[202]-3
Point d'Argentan	Fig. 92	[204]
Poi"t d'Arg"ntan. Grande Bride ground	" 93	[206]
French.—Point d'Argentan, 18th Century	Plate LVII	[208]
Point de Paris	Fig. 94	[210]
Point de France	" 95	[210]
French (or Dutch).—Victoria and Albert Museum	Plate LVIII	[212]
Chantilly	Fig. 96	[214]
Cauchoise	" 97	[217]
French, Chantilly.—Flounce	Plate LIX	[218]
French, Le Puy.—Black Silk Guipure	" LX	[218]
Petit Poussin, Dieppe	Fig. 98	[219]
Ave Maria, Dieppe	" 99	[220]
Point de Dieppe	" 100	[221]
Dentelle à la Vierge	" 101	[222]
Duc de Peuthièvre	" 102	[223]
French.—Blonde Male, in Spanish Style	Plate LXI	[226]
Modern Black Lace of Bayeux	Fig. 103	[227]
Point Colbert	" 104	[228]
Valenciennes, 1650-1780	" 105	[230]
Valen"iennes, Period, Louis XIV.	" 106	[232]
Valen"iennes, 17th and 18th Century	Plate LXII	[232]
Valen"	Fig. 107	[234]
Valenciennes Lappet	" 108	[234]
Lille	" 109	[236]
Li"	" 110	[238]
Arras	" 111	[240]
French, Cambrai	Plates LXIII, LXIV	[246]
French, le Puy	Plate LXV	[246]
Point de Bourgogne	Fig. 112	[256]
William, Prince of Orange	Plate LXVI	[258]
Dutch Bobbin Lace	Fig. 113	[260]
Tomb of Barbara Uttmann	" 114	[261]
Barbara Uttmann	" 114	A	[262]
Swiss, Neuchatel	Plate LXVII	[264]
German, Nuremberg	" ILXVIII	[264]
English, Bucks	" IIILXIX	[264]
Hungarian.—Bobbin Lace	" IIIILXX	[268]
Austro-Hungarian	" IIILXXI	[268]
Shirt Collar of Christian IV.	Fig. 115	[273]
Tönder Lace, Drawn Muslin	" 116	[274]
Russian—Needlepoint; German—Saxon	Plate LXXII	[276]
Russian, Old Bobbin-made	" LXXIII	[276]
Russian, Bobbin-made in Thread	" LXXIV	[280]
Dalecarlian Lace	Fig. 117	[281]
Collar of Gustavus Adolphus	" 118	[282]
Russia, Bobbin-made, 19th Century	" 119	[284]
Cap, Flemish or German	Plate XXV	[288]
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester	Fig. 120	[292]
English.—Cutwork and Needle-point	Plate LXXVI	[292]
English.—Devonshire "Trolly."	" LXXVII	[292]
Fisher, Bishop of Rochester	Fig. 121	[293]
Marie de Lorraine	Plate LXXVIII	[298]
Queen Elizabeth's Smock	Fig. 122	[308]
Christening Caps, Needle-made Brussels	Figs. 123, 124	[309]
Mary Sidney, Countess of Pembroke	Plate LXXIX	[316]
Henry Wrothesley, Third Earl of Southampton	" LXXX	[320]
Monument of Princess Sophia	Fig. 125	[321]
Mon"ment "f Pri"cess Mary	" 126	[322]
Mary, Countess of Pembroke	" 127	[323]
Elizabeth, Princess Palatine	Plate LXXXI	[326]
Falling Collar of the 17th Century	Fig. 128	[327]
Boots, Cuffs	Figs. 129, 130	[328]
English Needle-made Lace	Fig. 131	[328]
James Harrington	Plate LXXXII	[332]
James, the Old Pretender, and His Sister, Princess Louisa	" LXXXIII	[344]
John Law, the Paris Banker	" LXXXIV	[352]
Ripon	Fig. 132	[373]
English, Buckinghamshire, Bobbin Lace	Plate LXXXV	[374]
Buckinghamshire Trolly	Fig. 133	[381]
Bucking"amshire Point	" 134	[382]
Bucking"amshire Po"	" 135	[383]
English, Northamptonshire, Bobbin Lace	Plate LXXXVI	[384]
Old Flemish	Fig. 136	[385]
Old Brussels	" 137	[385]
"Run" Lace, Newport Pagnell	" 138	[386]
English Point, Northampton	" 139	[386]
"Baby" Lace, Northampton	" 140	[387]
nB"byn L"ce Beds	" 141	[387]
nB"byn L"ce Bucks	" 142	[387]
Wire Ground, Northampton	" 143	[388]
Valenciennes "	" 144	[388]
Regency Point, Bedford	" 145	[389]
Insertion, "	" 146	[389]
Plaited Lace, "	" 147	[392]
Raised Plait, "	" 148	[393]
English, Suffolk, Bobbin Lace	Plate LXXXVII	[394]
English Needle-made Lace	Fig. 149	[396]
Honiton With the Vrai Réseau	Plate LXXXVIII	[402]
Bone Lace from Cap, Devonshire	Fig. 150	[404]
Monument of Bishop Stafford, Exeter Cathedral	" 151	[406]
Monument of Lady Doddridge Exe"er Cath"	" 152	[407]
Honiton, sewn on plain pillow ground	" 153	[408]
Old Devonshire	" 154	[408]
Honiton Guipure	" 155	[410]
Honeysuckle, Sprig of Modern Honiton	" 156	[411]
Old Devonshire Point	" 157	[412]
Lappet made by the late Mrs. Treadwin of Exeter	" 158	[412]
Venetian Relief in Point	" 159	[414]
English.—Devonshire. Fan Made at Beer for the Paris Exhibition, 1900	Plate LXXXIX	[416]
Sir Alexander Gibson	Fig. 160	[424]
Scotch, Hamilton	" 161	[431]
Irish, Youghal	Plate XC	[436]
Irish, Carrickmacross	" IIXCI	[442]
Irish, Limerick Lace	" IXCII	[442]
Irish, Crochet Lace	" XCIII	[446]
Arms of the Framework Knitters' Company	Fig. 162	[447]
The Lagetta, or Lace-bark Tree	" 163	[456]
Metre P. Quinty	Figs. 164, 165	[460]
Pattern Book, Augsburg	" 166, 167	[462]
Augsburg	Fig. 168	[463]
Le Pompe, 1559	" 169	[473]
Manner of Pricking Pattern	" 170	[486]
Frankfort-on-the-Main, 1605	" 171	[492]
Monogram	" 172	[492]
"Bavari," from "Ornamento nobile" of Lucretia Romana	" 173	[498]

HISTORY OF LACE.

CHAPTER I.

NEEDLEWORK.