In the list of the Protestant refugees in England, 1563 to 1571,[[124]] among their trades, it is stated "some live by making matches of hempe stalks, and parchment lace."
Again, Sir Robert Bowes, "once ambassador to Scotland," in his inventory, 1553, has "One cassock of wrought velvet with p'chment lace of gold."[[125]]
"Parchment lace[[126]] of watchett and syllver at 7s. 8d. the ounce," appears also among the laces of Queen Elizabeth.[[127]]
King Charles I. has his carpet bag trimmed with "broad parchment gold lace,"[[128]] his satin nightcaps with gold and silver parchment laces,[[129]] and even the bag and comb case "for his Majesty's barber" is decorated with "silver purle and parchment lace."[[130]]
Again, Charles II. ornaments the seats on both sides the throne with silver parchment lace.[[131]] In many of the inventories circ. 1590, "sylke parchment lace" is noted down, and "red" and "green parchment lace," again, appear among the wares found "in ye Shoppes."[[132]]
But to return to the word guipure.
In an inventory of the Church of the Oratoire, at Paris, of the seventeenth century, are veils for the host: one, "de taffetas blanc garny d'une guipure"; the other, "de satin blanc à fleurs, avec une dentelle de guipure."[[133]]
These guipures will have also been of silk. When the term was first transferred to the thread passements which are now called guipure, it is difficult to say, for we can find no trace of it so applied.
Be that as it may, the thread guipures are of old date; many of the patterns bear the character of the rich ornamentation and capricious interlacings of the Renaissance; others, again, are "pur Louis Quatorze" (Fig. 18). The finest thread guipures were the produce of Flanders and Italy. They are most varied in their style. In some the bold flowing patterns are united by brides; in others by a coarse réseau, often circular, and called "round ground."
Fig. 18.