Cettinje has a population of about 1,300 people, the houses are whitewashed, with red roofs. The whole town is very clean in appearance.
It has a broad main street, crossed by smaller streets. In the main street are the houses of the foreign representatives. In the square is the palace of the Prince Nichola, unpretentious in appearance and only distinguishable by the guard in front of it. The Prince still administers open-air justice before his palace, though lately the large tree under which he sat has fallen, I believe.
Cettinje.
Not far off is the palace of Prince Danilo, his son, the hall of the senate being on the ground floor. The Ministry, the Court of Justice, and the prison are adjacent, and opposite the Ministry is the Monastery, in whose church the ancestors of the reigning house are buried. Above the Monastery rises a round tower, which until lately was adorned by Turkish skulls. Near the Monastery is the Museum in which are many torn standards, arms, medals, etc., etc.
Montenegro has a standing army, in which every able-bodied man serves for a term of four months at a time. The Montenegrins are as fine soldiers as can be found, and the Prince takes the keenest interest in his army and his people. Every morning he rides over to the square, where his subjects await him bare-headed. He signs one to his side, who, after kissing his hand, walks along by the side of his horse as far as the barracks, the Prince meanwhile discussing and questioning him as to his family affairs, or crops, &c. At the barracks the Prince watches the drilling, chats with his officers, and inspects the building, after which he will often visit the Law Courts and superintend affairs.
His people reverence him, and look upon him as their father in more than name.
I stayed at a comfortable hotel, and next morning Angelos and I wandered about the streets, starting at 6 a.m. and visiting several shops, as I was particularly anxious to buy one of the pretty costumes, which are so becoming, and would make such a charming fancy dress; the shoes were tiresome to get, as I did not fancy the calf-skin ones which I was told I must soak to soften, these I scorned, and at last found a very smart pair with leather soles and ornamented string tops.
As I had to get back to the yacht and wanted to do some sketching on the way, and was tired of wandering about on foot, we started on our return journey to Cattaro at 9-30, and it was with much regret that I left these charming people and their country.