Mahomedanism is not only predominant, but often enforced; education is very neglected, though there are a good many schools.
The population of Bosnia is about 1,592,000. The early inhabitants were Illyrians, and for the first time they are mentioned in the history was 34 B.C. In the Roman period, of which nothing remains, and at the end of the fourth century, Roman sway was overcome by the invasion of the Goths, then followed Croatians, then Servians. The south-west part became Christian under Justinian (527-565) and the rest of it by Servian apostles, Cyril and Methodius, about A.D. 880. From A.D. 940 and onwards, Bosnia was governed by elective princes or “bans,” who afterwards became feudatories of the Hungarian kings.
In A.D. 1377, the ruling Ban assumed the title King Stephen Tvertko I. In the reign of his eighth successor, Stephen Tomashewitch, Bosnia was conquered by Sultan Mahommed II., this was in 1463. In 1528, the banet of Jaice, and in 1592 the north-west part of Bosnia was taken by Turkey, and became the chief theatre of long wars between Austria and Turkey, which at length were ended by the peace of Sistova in 1791. The oppressive Turk left very little peace, causing the Christians to revolt repeatedly, particularly in 1850 and 1875; and in 1878, the Treaty of Berlin handed Bosnia with Herzegovina over to the government of Austria. A great deal has been done by way of improvements, such as new roads connecting important towns, the railway, also good gendarmes keep order.
I do not think the Bosnian is at all dissatisfied, in fact I understand that at a large meeting at Saràjevo of the Servian Independent Party, which consists chiefly of peasants, they decided to send a deputation of sixty persons to thank the Emperor of Austria for the annexation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and to assure His Majesty of their loyalty. One half of the deputation would consist of peasants, and the rest of the clergy and townsmen. The propositions of Austria-Hungary being, that the complete autonomy which would be introduced into Bosnia and Herzegovina would be based on the three ruling elements of the population, which must receive their proper representation in the Diet. To ensure this free development of the country, as well as religious peace, each of the three denominations would elect a certain number of deputies, but no one would be obliged to elect a member of his own persuasion. In addition to the Diet, district councils would also be created. It is thought that these arrangements may be carried out in the Spring.
The chief town, Saràjevo, is picturesque with its numerous minarets, and there are nine bridges over its river, the Miljavka.
Turkish Shops, Saràjevo.
Sad to say we found ourselves very near the snow at Saràjevo, and from the incessant rain the streets were ankle-deep in mud in the Bazaars. We wandered out in the afternoon with our skirts not quite so high as the trousered ladies, but still we were determined they should be out of the mud. Of course sketching and photography were not to be thought of, the only thing we could do was to patter along and see as much of interest as possible. In the little shops copper was being beaten into trays, jugs, ash-trays, coffee pots and cup holders, also there were silver and enamel things for sale; I bought a couple of silver hat-pins. I saw buckles, brooches, studs, earrings, &c., all made of silver in patterns or designs carried out on the article for sale. There were quantities of shoemakers and saddlers all hard at work. Stalls of sweet sellers who have a round table on which to display their wares laid out in sections. The lemonade sellers and coffee sellers carried their jugs and glasses, calling as they walked, very like Cairo. People wore goloshes or pattens of wood, some of the latter of which Miss B. was very anxious to purchase, but I rather frightened her, saying she might fall on her nose as she was not used to them, and no doubt they would be awkward to walk with at first, so she refrained from buying a pair. We plodded along for some time, then returned to a warm café, where we had delicious coffee with beaten up cream, so grateful and warming!
The cold at Saràjevo was so great that I felt very tempted to go straight to Budapest and give up my tour to Plitvice after all.