The history of Dalmatia dates, I think, from the year 180 B.C., when the tribe from which it takes its name declared their independence from Gentius, King of Illyria, and established a republic. In 156 B.C. the Dalmatians were attacked by the Romans and compelled to pay tribute, but it was not till the reign of Augustus that their country became a Roman province. Under Tiberius, Dalmatia was thoroughly Romanised, it gave to the world the Emperor Diocletian, who eventually retired to Salona, the new Dalmatian capital, where are still to be found the remains of his magnificence. It then fell into several successive hands, and in the seventh century it received the dominant element of its present population by the immigration of the Slavs invited by Heraclius.
In the ninth century the Croatian influence was high, and Croatian princes were recognised as kings of Dalmatia. In the tenth century Venice extended her power, which is still visible in the many beautiful buildings seen all along this coast. About the year 1018 the Doge took the title of Duke of Dalmatia. Venice and Croatia struggled hard for supremacy during the eleventh century, and in 1091 the Hungarians ousted the Croatians. The maritime cities of Zara, Traù, Spalato and Ragusa, had each their separate history, and attained much prosperity by commerce and industry. These towns sided with Venice and were at times under her control, until the treatment by that great republic disgusted them and they welcomed Louis of Hungary. Venetian authority was, however, once more asserted, but in 1797, Dalmatia became part of the Austrian dominions to which she has belonged ever since, with the exception of a Napoleonic period from 1805-1814. The Austrians were not popular, the feeling of the country being extremely hostile, and in 1869 an insurrection was put down by force of arms.
Water in Dalmatia is scarce, and the only rivers are the Krka and the Cettina. Outside the towns is very little vegetation; barley, wheat, maize, oats, rye, millet, beetroot, hemp and potatoes are all grown somewhere; coasting for miles and miles nothing is seen but pinky grey rock, and now and then a bush, though as you go further south vegetation becomes evident and vines are grown, the grapes producing a full, red wine which is much exported to Bordeaux; and olives, the oil of which is also exported.
About eighty-nine per cent of the natives belong to the Servian race and speak a Slavonic dialect, but there are a good many Italians; most of the natives understand Italian I found. The principal religion is Roman Catholic, there are also those who follow the Greek Church. The Roman Catholic Archbishop has his seat at Zara, and Spalato, Sebenico, Lesina and Cattaro are Bishoprics. Donkeys and goats abound, and there are some sheep. The peasant grinds his corn and weaves his clothes at home.
Lace making is a great industry amongst Dalmatian women, and there is a special school at Spalato where the most beautiful patterns taken from the Churches are copied. Sponges also are found near Sebenico. Anchovies and tunny fish are caught in large quantities and many other kinds of fish.
Zara we reached on April 14th, but here on this our first visit, we discovered no harbour, though next time we found the harbour was quite on the other side of the town. As we did not relish the idea of tossing about all night on the open sea, we decided only to stay a very short time just to visit the town and then push on to Zara Vecchia for the night.
After a Storm—Abbazia.
The town looks very new from the sea, and appears to be composed of large white modern buildings with red roofs, one hotel, “The Bristol,” looked most imposing and new, but you must penetrate behind all this, where you will find the old town of Zara with its narrow streets, with many Roman and Venetian remains, of the former two large Corinthian columns still stand, one they say is where it was first erected. A plaque of stone or marble let into a wall, on which a most graceful figure of a dancing girl was carved, and there was also quite a museum of statues and other relics. The Duomo, with its beautiful façade, is distinctly Venetian, and the Lion of St. Marc watches at the gates of the town.