Works on the combinations of color in dress divide complexions into the “fair and ruddy blondes,” and the “pale and florid brunettes.” In the fair blonde we find a delicate white skin; light hair, in all the shades from a golden hue to yellow or orange-brown; light blue or gray eyes; a slight tinge of rose on the cheek, and a richer tint on the lips. In all such complexions the rose-color is not decided enough, and the hair would be improved by a deeper hue; and these changes can be made, in a good degree, by a suitable mingling of color in the dress. One of the most favorable colors for the fair blonde is a delicate green, as it imparts to the flesh-white of the skin a tint of red, which, mingling with the natural hue, forms an agreeable rose-tint,—a good contrast both to the face and hair, especially if the hair is golden, inclining to orange.
The best colors to mingle with the green, as trimmings, are red, orange, and gold. Green and gold form a rich harmony, peculiarly becoming to the fair blonde. Scarlet, blended with green, harmonizes better than red; but if red, inclining to crimson, is used, then orange and gold must also be combined with it. There are some shades of green that are not becoming, unless blended with and enlivened by other harmonious colors. A green bonnet, with rose-color and white, with a white feather, will always be becoming for this complexion. Be careful that too much white is not used, else it will have a cold effect, and therefore will not aid the fair complexion so much. Orange or gold may be substituted for the pink or rose; also red, in a small bonnet, but neither should be placed close to the face. Orange, in a green bonnet, in small quantities, is becoming, if the wearer’s eyes are blue. A few autumnal shades of red, orange, or yellow-green are also in harmony with the fair complexion; but dark green is not at all desirable.
Blue is very suitable, giving an orange tint, which harmonizes finely with the delicate white and flesh hues of the complexion. There is always a natural trace of orange color on the skin, and this color, by intensifying this natural tint, is very pleasing; but the blue must be light, and not too positive. Blue being the perfect contrast of orange, it agrees finely with golden or orange-brown hair. This is the reason that light blue head-dresses are so very becoming on light hair. To give a good effect to blue by gas-light, a little white or very pale blue is necessary to be in contrast or very near the face. If there are green leaves with the blue flowers of a head-dress, they should be placed as near the face as possible.
White, black, a very little yellow, orange, straw, or stone color, may either of them be used in the trimmings of a light blue bonnet with good effects; but not if there are pink or purple flowers on it, as these colors mingled with blue are unsuitable. The colors to be used carefully or avoided altogether, with fair complexions, are yellow, orange, red, and purple. The light shades of lilac may be sometimes used; but it is very trying, and must always, if used, be separated from the flesh by an edging of tulle or some similar trimming, or be associated with its harmonizing colors, cherry, scarlet, light crimson, or gold color, and then they will in part overcome the bad effects; but green and lilac should never be coupled, as it will form a positive discord. A very little light purple is agreeable for a head-dress on light hair, but must be placed near the skin.
Neutral colors, if not too dark, accord well with fair blondes; gray, fawn, drab, and some few shades of brown are the best. Black is good for the fair blonde who has some healthy color, because it increases the rose in the complexion; but it is bad for pale skins, as it bleaches them by the painful contrast. No delicate color can be blended with black without seeming of a lighter tone. Unless used for mourning, black must be mingled with either blue, cherry, mulberry, drab, or lilac, to remove the somber effects; but cherry and lilac must be used sparingly. Red must not be used at all with black for fair blondes, as it gives a rusty tinge. White is suitable with black, if some other color is added; otherwise it is too cold. A black bonnet looks well with a fair complexion, but a little white and rose-color should be added, keeping the rose away from the skin. White is pleasant for all complexions, but more so with the fair blonde who has some color than for any other. Bright colors with white bonnet may be added, but must be kept low, and well grouped. White increases the paleness of a pale skin, but this effect may be neutralized by a blue or green wreath brought well on the face.
The ruddy blonde has a full-toned complexion, inclining to positive rose-red or carnation; dark blue or brown eyes, blonde and brown hair. All the colors suitable for the fair are generally suitable for the ruddy blonde, but the tones and in some cases the hues must be changed. As a rule this type may use more freedom in the selection of colors than the fair; her complexion, not being so delicate, is less sensitive. The hair being the medium between gold and black, and the complexion higher toned and more positive, rich and moderately dark colors may be used.
Green is very becoming, but it must be of the darker shades, and not the delicate green that is so becoming for the fair blonde. If the complexion is light and can use more red, without being overcharged, rich, full-toned green, such as grass or moss green, may be used, as, although sufficiently bright to yield color to the skin, it is not so powerful a contrast as to bleach it. In proportion as the complexion increases in color a deeper green may be selected, passing from the positive to the neutral hues, as sage, tea, or olive green. These deep, neutral greens do not cast much red, while they both harmonize with and reduce the natural hue. A simple rule for the ruddy blonde is, the paler her complexion the brighter must be the green she wears, the rosier the cheek the deeper and more neutral must be the green. For the high-toned blonde the green may be neutralized by mingling rose, scarlet, orange, or white flowers. If on the inside of a bonnet, the colored flowers must be surrounded with some gray or semi-transparent material to keep from contrast with the skin. On the outside dead-green or autumnal leaves, with a few flowers of orange or scarlet, are selected. Rose-colored flowers harmonize better with bright yellow-green than with dead-green leaves.
Blue also is suitable, but it follows the same rules as green: it must be deeper and richer for the ruddy blonde than for the fair. The best colors to associate with the rich blues are orange, salmon, and chocolate; white and black also harmonize with blue. Bonnets and head-dresses, and wreaths of blue, need the same colors blended as for the fair blonde, only of a deeper tint, and all colors pointed out as injurious by the one type must be avoided by the other. The most difficult color to introduce in any dress is violet; its effect on all complexions being so unsatisfactory. All skins appear yellow when in contrast with it, and look sickly and disagreeable. A large proportion of yellow is needed to reduce and neutralize the effects of violet. It becomes positively lost in artificial light, and should never be used or introduced into an evening dress.
Neutral colors are mostly suitable for the ruddy blonde; when light they increase the color, when dark they reduce it by contrast. Russet, gray, slate, maroon, and all shades of brown are the most pleasing of the dark neutrals, and gray, drab, fawn, and stone color, the most desirable of the light neutrals.