It might be imagined that where nature has done so much for her favourite isle in the way of barricading it, by giving to Antigua a bold rocky coast, art, in the shape of forts and batteries, would be less called for. This, however, is not the case; the island coaster meets with many an embattled point, and many a sea-girt cliff supports the frowning walls of a battery.
The forts in Antigua are Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat Hill or Fort Barrington, Old Fort, Johnston’s Point Fort, Old Road Fort, Falmouth Fort, Fort Black’s Point, Fort Charlotte and Fort Berkley at the entrance of English Harbour, Fort Christian, Fort Isaac, Fort William, Fort Harman, Flat Point Fort, Old Fort, and Fort Byam; Parham Harbour, Dickenson’s Point Battery, Corbison’s Fort, and Fort Hamilton. Of these, the greater part were merely temporary fortifications erected in those days of warfare when the French and Caribs, in their shallops and perrigoas, used to make such frequent attacks upon the island. Still, dismantled as many of these forts became in after-years, when peace spread her soft pinions over the lovely group of the Antilles, they retained their names, and served as sinecures to those persons who, from favouritism or superannuation, were exempted from militia duty, prior to the abolition of that body during the administration of Sir W. Colebrooke.[[99]]
The fortifications at present in use are, Fort James, Rat Island Battery, Goat Hill, Fort George, Fort Johnston’s Point, Old Road Fort, Monk’s Hill, and the forts at English Harbour.
Fort James was erected about the year 1704-5, on a spot of ground known as St. John’s Point, which was given to his majesty Charles II., by Col. James Vaughan, in 1680. It is situated at the entrance of St. John’s Harbour, and commands at once a beautiful and extensive view, while, from its frowning battlements, a deadly and raking fire could be poured upon the adventurous enemy who dared its anger. The rock upon which it is built appears to overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pass it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole.[[100]]
Fort James mounts but few guns, the rest are making themselves beds deep in the earth. This is one of the happy results of peace. Those murderous weapons repose in quietness, and that they may ever do so is my fervent prayer. A gun, however, is fired at sunrise and sunset; and her majesty’s ships, as well as vessels of war belonging to other nations, are complimented with a grand discharge. The arrival and departure of the governor, members of council, &c., also call for a similar mark of honour. Serious accidents sometimes occur at such periods. A few months ago one of the matrosses had his arm so severely shattered by overloading the instrument when saluting a French man-of-war, that it became necessary to amputate the limb immediately. He has now happily regained his former health, and is employed upon the fort as a schoolmaster.
The captain of Fort James receives 150l. sterling per annum, and the residence is one that many would gladly inhabit. Under him are stationed twelve matrosses, who receive very good pay. For the use of these last-mentioned persons, a temporary chapel has been established within these last few years, through the instrumentality of the Rev. John Horsford, Wesleyan missionary, son to the former governor of the fort, by which happy means they are enabled to attend Divine service once on the Lord’s day.
The road from the capital to Fort James, a distance of about four miles, is not very noted for the interest it displays. As the traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland, twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this, equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on with their dazzling coruscations.
Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the stranger approaches Antigua. It lies within the harbour of St. John’s, and takes its name from some fancied resemblance to that most destructive little quadruped, a rat. I cannot say this isapparent to my eyes, but the believers in such a similitude say that the rock personates the body of the animal, while the causeway which connects it to the main land plays the part of a tail. I have already mentioned the lunatic asylum lately erected upon this rock, whose whitened walls look cheerfully down upon the waters beneath, and little tells the observer how many darkened minds wander within them. The flag-staff upon Rat Island is often gaily decorated with various flags, and with a beating heart my eyes have often sought it, for there I learn the tidings that another packet has arrived from my native land, and, as I hope, brought me one of those little packages traced with “a grey goose-quill,” and telling that those who are so dear to me are enjoying health and happiness in Old England.
Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite side of the harbour to Fort James. When passing it by sea, our surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of, the island in 1666. Near the base of Goat Hill, two peculiar shaped and blackened rocks rear their bare heads above the sea, around which the waves dash their lustrous foam with loud and angry moanings. The remaining forts, with the salaries of their several captains, and the means by which they are paid, will be found in the statistical portion of this work.
From the forts, I proceed to mention the “Mico Charity” School at St. John’s, where instruction is given in various branches of knowledge. Upon my visit to this school, I must say I was surprised to find among the dirty ragged little negroes, which comprised it generally, a herd of geographers, historians, and grammarians. The head-master happened to be absent, but a messenger was immediately despatched to call him; and, upon his arrival, the examination commenced, which I left entirely to themselves, wishing to see their own mode of tuition.