I should have observed, that balls and dinners are sometimes held at the court house; as well as Bible and missionary meetings; and also fancy sales for charitable purposes. The last fancy fair, or rather bazaar, held there by the Church-of-England Association, was a very crowded affair. It took place on the day after Christmas-day, a day of all others devoted by the Antiguans to a display of dress. Not only all kinds of fancy and ornamental articles, fabricated by the fair hands of the Antiguan ladies were to be found there, but what pleased some part of the company much better, a well-filled lunch-table was spread, when pullets and guinea-birds, turkeys and ham, were joined to a whole army of tarts and puffs, fruits and confections. It was a motley group that frequented the court house that day: Iris would have found herself outvied in colours, and Fancy might have taken a new lesson. In one part of the room might be seen a member of the council, with his lady hanging upon his arm, and next to him a black labourer with his lady, in the same position; the latter couple making, in many instances, a far greater show than their aristocratic neighbours.[[80]] The military band was stationed in the lower apartment, and played during the day the most fashionable and favourite airs. The profits arising from this sale were appropriated to the purposes of assisting to defray the expenses of the new public cistern lately erected.
Opposite the north side of the court house is the arsenal, erected in 1757 or 1758. It is, as might be supposed, a strong building, and stands in a court yard, enclosed with iron railings. To the east of the arsenal is the old guard-house, erected in 1754, during the administration of Sir George Thomas. It is a plain building, with two projecting wings; but it is now very much out of repair, not being used for any purpose. Adjoining the guard-house is a long stone building, with its grated windows, formerly used as the gaol of the island, but within these last few years turned into the police office,—the goal being removed to the suburbs of St. John’s. This is a very great improvement; for this building, standing in one of the greatest thoroughfares of this populous town, and directly facing the market, the culprits who were immured for petty crimes, and kept in that part of the gaol, could look through their grated windows, hold converse with the passers-by, and thus disseminate their evil counsels among the idle and profligate of both sexes, who were always lounging about that spot. The dungeons where the felons used to be confined were gloomy dens indeed, and ran along the outer walls of the prison. One of these dungeons has been lately made into an engine-house, a door being broken through its massy walls facing the street. Upon passing this vault during its transformation, a sigh broke from my lips as memory carried me back to those fearful days when so many miserable creatures, who bore the name without the freedom of man, used to inhabit them, and often, it is said, from very trivial causes. Like Sterne, I fancied I could behold them in all their misery,—their bodies, perhaps, wasted with disease,—their eyes blood-shot and wild with despair,—their features sharpened by anguish of mind:—no one to soothe their grief,—no one to hear their complaint,—and without the hope, but not perhaps without the fear, of an hereafter, they left those cheerless vaults to be launched into eternity by the hangman’s hands! The picture was too dreadful; but sounds of laughter and gladness were abroad, our carriage rolled on amid crowds of blacks of every sex and age; and although at times I suffer, as many others do, from their impudence of manners and behaviour, yet I felt in my heart a pleasure at their being free. The present building was erected in 1772, the former gaol having been burnt to the ground in the great fire of 1769.
The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence, possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. During the period his excellency is residing in the capital, the “Union Jack” floats from the top of the flag-staff, opposite government house; and then all loyal subjects pay their respects to their young and beautiful queen’s representative.
The custom house, as has already been mentioned, was destroyed in the fire of 1841. It was a very respectable edifice, and well suited to the purpose. The building now used in its stead is hired at the annual rent of 100l. sterling. The treasurer’s and registrar’s offices are also private property, for which a moderate rent is given.[[81]]
From the custom house, I proceed to mention the barracks, very delightfully situated in a kind of open heath, to the east of the town. These consisted of two distinct buildings a few paces from each other; but the north wing of the lower one becoming dismantled and ruinous, it was resolved in 1831 to repair it, and appropriate it to the use of a gaol, instead of the building already described in the vicinity of the court house.
In this gaol, far greater attention is paid to the unfortunate inmates than was formerly the case. The prisoners are furnished with two wholesome and sufficient meals a day, but no clothing or bedding is allowed, unless by order of the medical man attending them. The females are separated from the men, and the debtors from the felons; although in former years they all used to herd together.
Since the year 1829, the Rev. Robert Holberton, the excellent rector of St. John’s, has voluntarily visited the prison every Sunday between the hours of seven and eight a.m., to read prayers, and deliver a religious discourse to the inmates; and in all cases where an unhappy being has so outraged the laws of humanity and justice as to forfeit his life to pay the penalty of his crimes, that divine has ever stepped in with his message of mercy, prayed with them, and sought to soften their stony hearts; to lead them to that only fountain capable of washing away their deadly sins, and finally accompanied them to the last sad scene of their mortal career.
One part of the gaol is converted into a house of correction, and the prisoners confined there are employed in breaking stones, or, under the surveillance of an officer, in working in the roads, or assisting in any other public works. A treadmill was sent for from England some time ago, but after costing the country a large sum, strange to say, no use is made of it. A shed is built over it, and there it remains quietly in the gaol-yard, and is likely to do so to the end of its existence. The reason for not using this machine, however, is said to be on account of the power required to work it, which necessarily calls for the exertions of a large gang; and although the house of correction is generally crowded with occupants, yet there has seldom been a sufficient number of culprits at one time condemned to that peculiar punishment, to set the treadmill going.
The north end of the building is appropriated to the use of the officers of her majesty’s troops, stationed for the time in the island; and notwithstanding its near proximity to a prison, must, I should think, be a very pleasant domicile. The privates are quartered at the other barracks, further to the east; and beneath the shade of a large tree growing near, their red-faced wives may be seen busily employed in washing their habiliments, while their sun-burnt children scramble about and chase the butterflies, who, gorgeous in colours, sport about the margin of a neighbouring pond.
The next building to be mentioned is, the new Ebenezer Chapel, belonging to the Methodist society. The corner-stone of this edifice was laid by the Honourable Nicholas Nugent (then speaker of the house of assembly, but who now resides in England as the colonial agent) in 1837. A religious service was first held in the old chapel, and then, forming into a procession, consisting of ministers of the different sects in Antigua, some of the aristocrats of the island, the leading members of the Methodists, and the scholars of their Sunday-schools, they marched to the spot appointed for the erection of their new place of worship. A bottle containing the customary inscription was placed in the cavity the stone lowered to its proper situation, the three blows of the mallet struck, addresses delivered, and the ceremony was over.