Perhaps it may afford matter of surprise to some of my readers to hear that the negroes of former days could read or write; but although slave-owners in general opposed the system of opening the book of knowledge to their slaves, it is to the honour of Antigua that she has been the most forward in pursuing a contrary line of conduct, and allowing her negroes the privilege of being taught those necessary qualifications. I am again referring to those dark days of slavery when the negroes were looked upon as little better than cattle; but in this part of my subject, I cannot help remarking what a difference a few years has made with regard to the instruction of the blacks. In former days, as above alluded to, the negroes were purposely kept in ignorance both of spiritual and worldly knowledge; all attempts to inform them were decidedly against the wishes of the proprietors, (I am now speaking of the West Indies generally,) who thought it one step towards insurrection. From this state of darkness and bad policy Antigua was about the first to awake; her efforts were at first but very slow, and her plans but half formed. But now the case is very different: schools abound in all parts of the island, both for young people and adults; there is not a negro who cannot obtain instruction if he wishes, and among the young there are none but the very worthless who cannot read. In the statistical part of this work will be found the number of schools, what sects they belong to, and also the number of children; but besides these, there are a great many private schools where the little black boys and girls who attend are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic. The Wesleyans were the first who instituted these schools; they were followed by the Moravians; and upon the appointment of a bishop to this diocese, the church followed their example.
Among the children who are instructed in these various schools, many of them can read fluently, write a good hand, and cast up an account with correctness; but with regard to those who gained their learning at an earlier date, very much cannot be said for their chirography. I have seen some of their writing, however, which is very passable, while others, again, presented the appearance of complete hieroglyphics, and which I should as soon think of interpreting as the characters on the tomb of “Cheops,” or a Chinese manuscript. An anecdote is related of a person whose name was Mac Namara; he was considered a superior kind of man for his line, but was not much of a penman, his writing being chiefly confined to the signing his own name. One day, his signature was required in some haste, and taking the pen in hand, he commenced “Macnamamamama,” till at length, turning to some person who stood near him, “Brother,” says he, “tell me when me done; here, don’t you think it looks long enough?.” It was his custom, it appears, when signing his name, to look more to the length than the spelling, but being rather flurried on this day, he exceeded his usual limit.
[[27]] I include under this term the very zealous and worthy preachers of the Wesleyan sect, and the kind-hearted Moravians, as well as the established clergy.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Negroes: Their amusements—Natural ear for music—Singing—Dancing—Subscription routs—Christmas balls—The ball-room decorations—Ball dresses—Gentlemen’s appearance—Ladies’—Politeness—Supper, and the supper-table—The morning after a ball—Cards of invitation—The “good night.”
We have now to mention the amusements of the negroes, and their conduct in their hours of recreation. The blacks have a remarkable ear for music, and consequently are particularly fond of singing. Indeed, they can hardly do anything without “forming their voice to melody.” The sailors, when heaving an anchor, have a peculiar song which they sing in chorus, pulling the cable at the same time. When moving their houses, (which it is customary to do in this part of the world,[[28]]) another ditty is requisite; and even if you get them to lift any article which obliges them to use a little exertion, a song must accompany the action. Most of these songs are extempore, and are sung to some favourite tune, the poetry being generally a species of parody, or else a ludicrous composition upon some person who may have attracted their attention, either by a peculiarity in dress or manners; and it is surprising how soon the whole tribe learn it. Some negroes have a clear, sweet, and powerful voice, while others again resemble the screech of a pair of bagpipes, or give the idea of a parrot warbling an Italian air. The black boys are nearly all good whistlers, and some of them will go through, with correctness, many of our best airs, with variations. They are also great psalm-singers, the streets often resounding with this peculiar species of harmony.
Next to singing, their favourite pastime is, to “trip the light fantastic toe,” and at this sport they are indefatigable. These dancing parties are differently conducted; at some are danced quadrilles! (I am not aware if the gallopades and Mazurka have found their way into these coteries at present, but as all negroes are great sticklers for fashion, I suppose they have,) at others only country dances and reels are introduced; while the Africans are content with their own native dance, and their music of the Bangoe and Tum-tum. Christmas is the principal season for these assemblies, although there are subscription balls held once or twice a week in some of the small houses at the back of the town. These meetings may be very agreeable to the negroes, but they are anything but agreeable to those unfortunates who may chance to inhabit houses in the vicinity. Little or no sleep will visit their eyes upon those nights dedicated to gay Terpsichore, and they may be led to misquote Shakspeare, and say, “Dancing murders sleep.” The music generally consists of a squeaking fiddle, a tamborine, (upon which they have a peculiar way of performing,) and a triangle, played without any regard to time or melody. The worst characters frequent these houses, and the refreshments are always levied by contributions upon the public.
Some of the Christmas balls (or as it is the fashion now to term them, “quadrille parties”) are, however, conducted upon a very grand scale. The ball-room is decorated with branches of the cocoa-nut, interspersed with the many beautiful flowers which, in these sunny climes, grow in such wild profusion, while boughs of the Pimento (or “Christmas bush,” as it is generally called in this country) and the orange tree, loaded with its tempting fruit, impart a pleasing fragrance throughout the apartment. Around the walls, brackets of deal are nailed to support the innumerable tapers which serve to light up this “temple of mirth,” and throw a radiance upon the countenances of the ebon beaux and belles. The orchestra generally occupies one end of the apartment; and the company is arranged, in two lines, the ladies upon one side, and the gentlemen upon the other. The glittering throng at “Almacks” cannot outvie in dress with the glittering throng at an Antiguan negro ball. Fashion exerts her power, and seldom finds more devoted votaries than among these dark damsels and their loving swains.
The dress of the gentlemen consists of a blue, brown, or purple coat, (not quite equal in make to one of Stultz,) with velvet collar, and shining brass buttons; pantaloons, which would rival in whiteness the snows of great St. Bernard; a many coloured vest, a very smart cravat, silk stockings, and well-polished pumps or fancy boots, with tassels, &c., in the most approved fashion. In the folds of the cravat are deposited one or two brooches, (not quite equalling in splendour and dimensions the celebrated “brooch of Lorn,” but no doubt thought by the wearers to be very tasteful;) a glittering brass chain, which after performing countless figures and evolutions around the neck, is deposited with its accompanying quizzing-glass (set in the same precious metal) in the waistcoat pocket; sundry brass rings upon the fingers; a box to contain that fashionable dust, called by mortals—snuff, ornamented with a correct likeness of “Her Majesty Queen Victoria,” or “Prince Albert,” with cheeks of the colour of red ochre, and eyes “like two full moons;” these, together with a voluminous silk handkerchief, plentifully besprinkled with new rum, sold under the approved name of “Eau de Cologne,” and then the costume is complete.