[[33]] It may be necessary to remark, that the word buckra, in the negro tongue, signifies “a white person;” but as the smart people I have been describing imitate in everything fairer brethren, they are ironically termed “black buckras.”
CHAPTER XL.
Negroes: Further sentences upon “dress”—Sunday transformations—The black cook and his metamorphosis—Christmas waits—Negro houses—The mode of building upon estates—Town negro houses—Architecture—The mode of moving houses.
I have in so many places made reference to the style of dress adopted by the negroes, that to bring it under a particular head may be deemed superfluous. And yet I cannot let it pass without saying something more upon this subject.
I must own I was very much surprised, on first arriving in Antigua, at the style of dress adopted by these people. That the negroes were very fond of adorning themselves I was well aware, but I thought it consisted in a display of what we should term trumpery, such as the worn-out garments of their superiors which had once been smart; but I was soon undeceived. It was during the jovial season of Christmas I first made my appearance in this island, a time of all others devoted by the negroes to the purpose of exhibiting the contents of their wardrobes. Christmas-day, and the two succeeding days, are, in this country, exclusively termed “Christmas;” and poor indeed must be the negro who does not sport a new dress upon that occasion, even if they have to wear nothing but rags for the rest of the year. Those of the fair sex who can afford it, generally purchase three dresses; one to wear each day, and formed of various materials, such as silks, (figured and plain,) satins, mousseline de laines, challis, crapes of different names and textures, or handsome white muslin robes variously embroidered. The fashion now in vogue among these ladies is, to have the skirt of their dresses dropping on the ground for about a quarter of a yard in length, the bottom terminated by two rows of flounces, demi-bishop sleeves, and pointed corsages. But the great novelty is in the arrangement of the different tints, most of them thinking they are not sufficiently well-dressed if they leave out any of the prismatic colours. The bonnets are worn just at the back of their heads, and often present a singular appearance. A negress lately presented herself to my notice, whose dress deserves particular attention. Her daily business is to work in the cane-field, and for some time past I had been used to see her bringing grass for the use of our horses in a state approximating to nudity. Upon the Sunday she honoured me with a call the case was, however, very different. Her dress of figured white muslin was profusely ornamented with pink ribbon and fringe of the same gay tint, her silk stockings were “ditto to match,” and her shoes yellow, with white sandals. But her bonnet struck me as most particular; it was formed of that material called “Tuscan,” lined with green, trimmed with pink, and further decorated with a prodigy among flowers, a blue rose with silver leaves!
Another very favourite article of dress amongst these black belles, is what they term “a Victoria cloak,” which is nothing more or less than a square of coarse net, tamboured, in the commonest manner, in large flowers; but which, like everything else of the present day, is named after the queen. I am sure, did her majesty but know how her name is applied to all kinds of articles, from a steam-coach in England, to a lap-dog here, she must think herself greatly honoured! I have already spoken of their splendid jewellery, and therefore it only remains for me to mention, that elaborately worked collars, with three rows of cotton lace round them, fancy reticules, coloured boots and shoes, and parasols, are to be found composing a part of their attire. The latter mentioned articles are unfurled, and twirled about by the young ladies with peculiar grace; but those who are less modish in their manners generally close them, and carry them over the right shoulder, with the end sticking up like the point of a bayonet. A few years ago, the negroes were accustomed to tie their heads with Madras handkerchiefs of the brightest dyes, or else wear large leghorn or silk hats, covered with flowers and ribands; but since emancipation, bonnets are most generally worn, particularly among the young, although some still prefer the use of the hat.
The gentlemen negroes present also a most dandified appearance. Surtouts or coats of different colour, with velvet collars, splendid waistcoats, white or coloured trousers, with very high-heeled boots, are most in vogue. It is customary with these beaux, when they order a pair of boots, to give particular injunctions to the cordwainer, to make them in such a manner that they may “stamp and creak well,” when they wear them. To these specified articles of dress, must be added broad-brimmed hats, silk umbrellas, (if they can get them, if not, cotton suffices; but a negro never thinks himself well arrayed without this article,) and pocket handkerchiefs, one end making its appearance from the coat pocket. The persons who dress in this manner are generally coblers, tinkers, carpenters, bricklayers, and servants. It is almost impossible to know your own domestics, so great are their metamorphoses.
In the ship which conveyed us hither, was a black man, who officiated as cook. Our first place of destination, after leaving England, was British America, where we arrived in the beginning of a very severe winter. Sincerely did I pity this poor man, for his scant and tattered clothing was no protection from the pitiless blast, and excessive cold of that hyperborean clime. Being a native of so warm a country as the West Indies, and having never before experienced the rigours of winter, it was with some difficulty he could bear up against this (to him) accumulation of ills. His custom was to remain in the steerage of the ship, and when any of his messmates tried to arouse him, and invite him to visit the deck, his only answer was, “I brought all my fingers and toes from Antigua, and please God, I must try and carry them back again.” After remaining in America for some time, (suffering hot aches, and I know not what beside,) until the ship had discharged her cargo of interesting emigrants, and re-loaded with that necessary article “lumber,” (alias timber,) we took our departure, with many a favour of “King Frost’s” hanging about our vessel, in the shape of huge blocks of ice. A pretty fair wind soon carried us into warmer latitudes, and I used frequently to remark, how delighted that poor half-clothed man must be. “Oh! oh!” was the answer, “that poor half-clothed man, as you call him, is a very respectable and dashing fellow, I do assure you, in his own country.” I thought this assertion bordering upon the burlesque, but I made no reply, wisely remembering the old saying, “Time will shew all things.”
At length, after encountering, as every other mortal must, calms as well as storms, one bright morning brought us to the shores of fair Antigua. This, as I have before remarked, was during the season of Christmas, the time for fun and dress among the negroes. The morning after we landed, I early shook off “tired nature’s sweet restorer, balmy sleep,” and hurried over the duties of the toilet in order that I might look about me, and see what kind of bipeds I had fallen in with. I had not long left my apartment when I saw a very dashing-looking gentleman enter the back gate, and approach the door near which I was standing, admiring the bright sun and blue sky of this December morning. It certainly struck me as rather surprising, that a gentleman of his appearance should enter by that part of the house usually appropriated to the servants, but I supposed it was one of “the customs” of the country. Not wishing to be in that disagreeable situation of having to introduce myself, I retired into an inner apartment; but ere long I learnt, to my great surprise, that the “exquisite,” whose appearance caused my sudden departure, was no less a personage than the black cook from on board the ship.
Christmas is also the season here, as in England, for roast-beef, plum-pudding, and plum-cake; most of the negroes endeavour to get one of these articles, should they not be able to procure them all; but if their pockets are too low to do this, they purchase a few raisins to treat their friends with. “Christmas day” is ushered in with the sound of fiddles and drums; parties of negroes going round the town about four o’clock in the morning, playing upon these instruments for the purpose of breaking people’s rest, (for I am sure it cannot amuse;) and then they have the assurance to call at the different houses during the day for payment. At the conclusion of this serenade, or waits, or whatever else they choose to term it, the musicians generally raise their voices to the highest pitch, and call out, “Good morning to you, massa; good morning to you, missis; good morning to you, ladies and gentlemen all!” a flourish is then given with fiddle and drum, and they march off to disturb another quiet household.