To winter in Controllable Hives, prepare as follows: At the commencement of steady cold weather, which, in the New England States, is usually near the close of November, put the bees in condition to winter by entirely closing the upper entrance to the hive, and the lower one shut up about one-half.[11] Take out the box frames at the sides of the brood section, and put the movable partitions in place. Remove the boxes and feeder, or honey board, (whichever is in place) from over the brood section. Place the ventilator (described elsewhere) over the brood section, so the lower edge of the ventilator, at the sides, will rest on the upper edges of the movable partitions, on each side of the brood section. Pack the sides of the hive (that part occupied by the side boxes in summer,) closely with very line hay or straw. Pack the cap as full of the same matter as it can be crowded. Then put the thickness of one or two inches over the ventilator, filling up evenly, so when the cap is placed ever the upper part, the cap and sides will be compactly filled. There must be no spaces left unfilled, the object being to secure an even temperature in the brood section, and absorb all moisture thrown off by the bees; and to do this successfully, the cap and sides must be closely packed throughout. When you have the cap and sides well packed, replace the cap, and the work is done. Shade the front of the hives during the winter months. No matter if the snow drifts over the hive so as to completely bury it from sight, let it remain;—your bees are safe.
[11] To secure a slight upward draught of air, to carry off the moisture arising from the bees, make a hole a half-inch in diameter in front and rear of the cap, in the center, close to the top or roof boards. (And here let me say, the roof boards, or boards covering the cap, should project about an inch, as they can be more firmly nailed, and make better joints; for driving rains must not be allowed to penetrate to the inside of the hive.) The inside of each hole should be covered with wire cloth, to keep out insects, etc.
A neighbor of mine had fifteen stocks in Controllable Hives completely buried in snow over six feet deep, and the crust formed over them so it would bear a horse. They remained under the snow from January until April, when they thawed out, and every stock was found to be in first-class order.
When there is only a small quantity of snow about the hive, say only enough to cover the lower entrance, and there should come a very warm spell of weather, which would bring the bees out, be sure to clear away the snow so they need not be kept back by it. But it will take an exceedingly warm day in winter to rouse the bees from their dormant state in the Controllable Hive, and bring them out for a turn in the open air. If the air is warm enough to induce them to come out, it is always warm enough for them to fly briskly. In this respect there is a great contrast between my hive and others. With other hives, an hour's warm sun will bring out the bees in winter, when the air is cold, and the consequence is, they fall into the snow and perish by hundreds. In this way stocks are often reduced in numbers until all are lost. The dysentery generally attacks such stocks (brought on by the sudden changes in temperature in the hive.) and hastens their destruction, by causing them to leave the hive, when they would not do so if in a healthy condition. Bees, when wintered in Controllable Hives as directed, will come out in the spring, strong in numbers, and in a healthy condition—in great contrast to the weak and diseased stocks which have been wintered in the ordinary manner. I have perfect confidence in the method of wintering here recommended, for I have had it in practical use for many years, and have never lost a stock, notwithstanding some winters have been very destructive to bees in this section, some, who practice the old methods, losing their entire stocks. I learn from my correspondents in all parts of the United States that there is great loss of bees in winter; so great in fact as to discourage many from attempting to engage in apiculture.
My plan of wintering is very simple, and commends itself to every intelligent person. In a few words it may be expressed thus: The brood section is secured against the effects of sudden changes in the weather, (this keeps the bees dormant throughout the winter season, which is as nature designed,) and provides for the absorption of all moisture and perspiration arising from the bees, white in a dormant slate. These two points are the foundation of successful wintering.
CHAPTER XVI.
TRANSFERRING BEES.
AS some of my readers may have bees in ordinary hives, which they would like to transfer to the Controllable Hive, I will devote a chapter to Transferring.
If you have bees in a box or patent hive, or any of the thousand and one bee hive humbugs, which are of little or no profit, and cause you much trouble and perplexity in swarming time, and frequent and heavy losses in winter, you can move them into Controllable Hives—comb, honey and bees together—and manage them on the plan here recommended, and they will winter well, come out strong and healthy in the spring, and cause comparatively no trouble in swarming time, yielding you a good profit yearly.