Very early swarms hived in Controllable Hives should have access to the boxes on one side only. In about ten days after being hived, and as soon as the bees are well at work in these, give them access to the other side. Swarms that are hived late in the season will not require boxes, until the next season, as it is necessary to have the brood section filled, or nearly filled, before the bees have access to the boxes.
It is important that we have the combs in the brood section built straight in the frames, so as to be easily lifted out separately. To secure this object, use comb foundation as starters in each brood frame; a strip one or two inches wide on the under side of top bar of each brood frame its entire length, will insure straight combs. To hold it in place, use resin and bees wax melted together and applied warm. If no precaution is taken in this direction, the bees will sometimes build the comb crosswise of the brood section. As straight combs in the brood section are very important, we should employ every available means to aid in securing them.
It is well to keep on hand a few plain boxes, each with four moveable frames, like those in the Controllable Hive. If at any time a swarm comes out at the very last of the honey season, hive them in one of these boxes. They will probably enlarge or quite fill the four frames with comb, and perhaps store a little honey. Then, in the fall, put these four frames with the bees and comb, in a Controllable Hive, and add two frames, well filled with honey, from a stock that can spare it. In this way you will build up a good stock for winter, whereas if you had hived them in a full sized Controllable Hive so late in the season, they would probably have put a little comb in each of the six frames, but not enough to winter, rendering it necessary for you to feed with the liquid feed in the fall. It is better to have four frames nearly or quite filled with comb, than to have six frames with a very little comb in each. It sometimes happens that a swarm of bees, which has worked well in boxes through the entire honey season, will swarm about the time the yield of honey ceases. If managed on the old plan, such swarms are worthless, but by hiving them in a box with four moveable frames as directed, they make valuable stocks. All such swarms may be returned to the old stock, as directed in another chapter, yet we sometimes wish to increase the number of our stocks to the utmost, and it is convenient to know how to make valuable stock of these late issues. Then they can either be returned or hived, whichever the bee-keeper thinks is most for his or her interest.
CHAPTER VII.
ANGER OF BEES.
THE anger of bees, when once thoroughly aroused, is much to be dreaded, as the results which follow are often of a very serious nature. In my own case I can handle bees with perfect impunity. They rarely make any attempt to sting, no matter what liberties I take with them. I always intend to be very careful, and handle them gently, making them understand that I do not mean to harm them. In my first efforts in handling bees they were very apt to sting me, for the reason that I did not understand their nature; consequently they mistook my intentions, and often forced me to seek shelter from their attacks. Now I seldom use any protection when working among them. Often, in transferring the bees and comb from the old box hive to the Controllable Hive, I roll up my sleeves, and with no protection whatever for the hands or face, cut out the comb from the old hive, with the bees adhering to it and arrange and fasten it in the new hive, without the bees making any attempt to sting me.
I would not recommend any one to do this, until they are so well acquainted with, and accustomed to handling the bees, as to understand perfectly their every characteristic, and be quite certain that they will not make an attack. It is better to protect the face and hands from their attacks as you will thus feel greater confidence in yourself, and can perform all operations without fear of stings. It is well to understand what will arouse the anger of bees and cause them to sting. If we breathe upon them, when they are in and about the hive or boxes they deem it an insult, and will dash at and sting us at once. Any sudden jar of the hive is instantly resented. All quick, spiteful motions about the hive, such as running, jumping, etc., are noticed, and quite sure to be followed by a sting. The finger pointed at them with a quick, spiteful motion when they are standing as sentinels about the entrance of the hive, often provokes stings. If they come buzzing around, threatening to sting, perhaps striking your hat almost like a bullet, and should you return the compliment by striking at them with your hand, they will be quite sure to sting you. The better way is, if unprotected, to hold down your head so as to protect your face, and move away from the hive as quietly as possible. When the bees find you are retreating, they will not follow you far. Always remember that if one bee stings you, others are very sure to immediately follow, unless you retreat. I believe that bees have a language by which they make known to each other their wants and wishes; and I feel certain they know those who have the care of them, and become accustomed to the motions and appearance of those who are seen by them daily.
The members of my family are seldom stung by the bees, notwithstanding I sometimes have fifty hives or more where we pass within twenty feet of them many times a day, while the bees are flying in thousands about each hive. In the middle of the day in the honey season the air for many rods about the hives is full of bees. I find my bees are much more likely to attack strangers who come to see them, than members of the family.
TO SUBDUE THE ANGER OF BEES.
I have tested every means recommended for subduing the anger of bees, and have found tobacco smoke the thing when rightly applied.