Change of Government and What it Meant—Why it Took Place at Simla—The Ceremony—An Anxious Moment—A General Stampede—Retirement of Lord Lytton—Work of Which Viceroy?—Lord William’s Services Valued—A Bet Between Him and the Author—Lord William’s 10 to 1
In the spring of 1880 there was the change of Government at home already alluded to, brought about mostly by the dissatisfaction of the country over Lord Lytton’s Afghan policy and the war in South Africa with its disasters and awkward situations, Mr. Gladstone succeeding Lord Beaconsfield as Prime Minister. He at once took steps to reverse Lord Lytton’s policy. Therefore His Excellency resigned, Lord Ripon taking his place in June, if I remember correctly.
The change in Viceroys usually took place in the cold weather at Calcutta, but on this occasion the Afghan War was still going on, and the new Liberal Government could not wait until the monsoon, which was due in a few weeks, had cooled the air, so Lord Ripon had to take the reins from Lord Lytton at Simla.
In those days the railway was left at Umballa, on the main line of the Indian North-Western, after which the rest of the journey was done with horses in vehicles of some sort, the usual mode being by “tonga,” a sort of phaeton hung very low and drawn by a pair of ponies harnessed curricle fashion, the ponies being changed about every four miles, this part of the journey taking about eight hours. The first forty miles over the plains to Kalka, the roads are good, and the travelling over them is very pleasant. After that they become mountainous for fifty-eight miles, climbing and winding up the spurs of the outer Himalayas to the deodar and rhododendron clad ridge of Simla, six or seven thousand feet high.
Government House, or the Viceregal Lodge at Simla at the time of the Ripons’ arrival was called “Peterhoff,” and it would be difficult to imagine an abode less viceregal. It was simply a rather glorified bungalow, situated on the edge of a young precipice, the house cramped and inconvenient, with very little ground about it, but it has long since been superseded by the much more commodious and impressive new viceregal lodgings on the summit of what was then known as Observation Hill. The lawn in front of Peterhoff was no bigger than many of those often seen in front of suburban villas. This Peterhoff lawn was, however, historic, for it was there that Lord Lawrence thrashed a chuprasse (messenger) with his great-coat for some unusually flagrant act of carelessness or disobedience.
Small as this historic lawn was, it had to take part in the ceremonies attendant on the change of Viceroys. Lord William was not responsible for what occurred there on this memorable day, but as an acting A.D.C. necessarily took part in it, and I think if he had then been Military Secretary the arrangements might have been better.
When the change of Rulers took place at Calcutta there was plenty of space and room for the crowd of dignitaries, British and native, presenting an impressive show as they lined the stately portico and ample stairway. The numerous uniforms, picturesque dresses of the native chiefs and notables, together with the scarlet uniforms and tall lances of the bodyguard combined to make the scene gay, and even splendid.
Not so at Simla, where on this occasion the whole officialdom from the Commander-in-Chief and members of Council downwards, were packed into a big shamiana (tent with a flat roof) somewhere about twenty feet square. Most noticeable amongst the assembly were the two Sikh Chiefs, of Jhind and Nabha, their states not being far from Simla; both were elderly men, tall, handsome and strikingly alike, though I believe no relation. With their snowy garments, jewelled necklaces, aigrettes and gold-hilted swords, they looked what they were, warrior princes of the best Oriental type.
There was nothing remarkable about the rest of the crowd. Everybody of course had to be in uniform, and as no one was allowed to remain outside the shamiana it was soon packed and most uncomfortably hot. One side of the tent was open, and a strip of red cloth led from it to the porch of Peterhoff.
Everybody was awaiting the arrival of the new Viceroy, Lord Ripon, who had slept the night before at the foot of the hills at Kalka, and was expected every moment to arrive with his personal staff in a train of tongas.