After passing Kushee, the travellers were joined by a Borgoo fatakie, or company of merchants. Their route lay through a vast and lonely forest, infested by robbers. At one opening a band of twenty marauders armed with lances and bows and arrows, appeared from behind the trees, and stationed themselves in the middle of the path before the men who carried the baggage, who were much frightened, and seemed disposed to throw down their burdens and run away. But when Richard Lander presented his gun at their leaders, their courage failed, and they took to flight. On the road to Kiama, the appearance of the country was completely changed, and the road lay through a vast tract of mountain forest, the haunt of savage animals. The crossing of a narrow brook introduced them to a people speaking a different language, of different manners and creed from those of Yarriboo. Lander gives the following account of the first night which they spent in this new territory:—"We occupy a large round hut, in the centre of which is the trunk of a large tree, which supports the roof; it has two apertures for doors, above which are a couple of charms, written in Arabic. It is now eleven P.M.; our attendants, with several of their fellow-travellers, are reposing on mats and skins, in various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows, and quivers ornamented with cows' tails, together with muskets, pistols, swords, lances, and other weapons, are either hanging on the wall or resting upon it. The scene is wild and singular. Outside our hut it is still more striking. There though it rains and thunders, the remainder of the fatakie, consisting of men, women, and children, are sitting on the ground in groups, or sleeping near several large fires, which are burning almost close to the hut, whilst others are lying under the shelter of large spreading trees in its immediate vicinity. Their only apparel is drawn over their half naked persons; their weapons at their sides, and their horses are grazing near them." After entering Kiama, they were introduced to King Yarro, who sat by himself upon a heap of buffalo hides; the walls of the apartment were ornamented with portraits of George IV. the Duke of York, the Duke of Wellington, and Lord Nelson; opposite to these were suspended horse accoutrements, and on each side were scraps of paper, on which were written sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay a confused heap of muskets, lances, and other weapons. The king assigned to them a dwelling near the palace. The travellers had one day the gratification of witnessing an African horse-race. The entertainment was preceded by the ceremonies of Mahometan devotion. The head Mallam read a few pages from the Koran, after which a sheep was sacrificed; the blood was then poured into a calibash, and the king and some of his subjects washed their hands in it, and sprinkled the drops on the ground. After this a few old muskets were discharged, and the king and his chiefs rode about the ground, armed, and in gay attire. It was evening before the races commenced, which were attended by a joyful and noisy crowd. The monarch and his guards came upon the ground in procession, mounted on handsome steeds. The horses and their riders soon appeared. The men wore turbans of blue and white cotton, red morocco boots, and robes of every possible hue. The horses were gaily caparisoned, and had strings of bells hanging from their necks. The signal for starting was given, and they set off at full gallop. "The riders brandished their spears, the little boys flourished their cows' tails, the buffoons performed their antics, muskets were discharged, and the chief himself, mounted on the finest horse on the ground, watched the progress of the race, while tears of delight were starting from his eyes. The race was well contested, and terminated only by the horses being fatigued, and out of breath."
On the 5th June they left Kiama, and arrived at a large town called Kakafungi. The inhabitants are a good-humoured and civil race, often amusing themselves at night by dancing in the moonlight to the sound of a large drum. The road from this place was marked by many foot-prints of wild beasts; but the travellers only saw a few antelopes, which immediately took to flight. No trees defended them from the burning sun, and they could scarcely proceed from weakness. They saw the sun set behind some magnificent clouds, whilst they had yet a great way to go; and the narrow foot-path, overgrown with bushes and rank grass, was hardly discernible by the light of the moon. In the afternoon, all had been silent in the forest; but at night the jackal, the hyena, and the baboon had forsaken their retreats, and mingled their dismal howl with the chirping of innumerable insects.
They reached Boussa on the 17th June. The appearance of the Niger at this place disappointed them much. "Black rugged rocks rose abruptly from the centre of the stream, causing strong ripples and eddies on its surface." At its widest part, the Niger here did not exceed a stone-cast in breadth. They sat on the rock which overlooks the place where the intrepid Park was murdered. The Landers recovered from one of the natives a robe, of rich crimson damask, covered with gold embroidery, which the natives said had belonged to Mr. Park. The king's drummer, with whom they lodged, told them, that there was in the country a book which had also belonged to the white man. A few days afterwards, the king came to the house, followed by a man, who carried under his arm a book wrapped in a large cotton cloth. "Our hearts beat high with expectation, as the man was slowly unfolding it, for by its size we guessed it to be Mr. Park's journal; but our disappointment was great, when, on opening the book, we discovered it to be an old nautical publication of the last century." It consisted chiefly of tables of logarithms, and between the leaves were a few loose papers of very little consequence.
In a few days, a canoe was ready for their voyage up the Niger to Yaoorie. The canoe was of great length, and constructed of two blocks of wood sewn together with a thick cord, under which a quantity of straw was placed, both inside and out, to prevent the admission of water. Still it was leaky and insecure. The direction of that branch of the river which flows past Boussa is nearly east and west, and they had to descend the stream for some distance, in order to get into its main branch, where there was deeper water. The river then flowed from north to south, through a fertile country, and its channel was more than a mile in width. The branches of spreading and majestic trees almost met the water's edge; ripe grain waved upon the banks; large villages were frequently seen; and herds of spotted cattle grazed beneath the shade. Canoes, laden with sheep and goats, and propelled by women, frequently passed them; and aquatic birds skimmed over the smooth and glassy surface.
During the following day, the river gradually widened to two miles, and though in many places shallow, was in other parts deep enough to float a frigate. By the afternoon, however, the beauty of the scene was entirely gone; the banks were composed of black and rugged rocks, and the course of the river was frequently intercepted by sand-banks and low islands. On the following morning, the channel became so much obstructed, that, at one part, they were obliged to land in order to lighten the canoe, which, after much trouble, was lifted over a ridge into deeper water. Though they often struck upon concealed rocks and sandbanks, yet the canoe, from its peculiar structure, seemed to sustain little damage. At length, however, these difficulties were surmounted, and they came to the termination of all the islands, beyond which they were assured there was no farther danger to navigators. At this point, the river "presented its noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was perceptible; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong refreshing breeze, which had blown during the whole of the morning, now gave it the motion of a slightly agitated sea." They landed at a village about eight miles distant from Yaoorie, where they found their horses and attendants waiting for them. Here one of the Landers obtained from an Arab a gun which had belonged to Mr. Park, in exchange for his own.
The walls of Yaoorie are between thirty and forty miles in circuit; but this space encloses clusters of huts, with pasture grounds and corn fields. The land is fertile, and produces excellent crops of rice. Yet it must be very unhealthy, for it is in many places swampy, and exposed to inundation. The sultan's residence is substantially built, and two stories in height; most of the other houses are built in a circular form. The place has rather a pleasing appearance, being adorned by many clumps of trees. The soil is cultivated by a peaceable, industrious, half servile tribe, called the Cumbrie, who are often subjected to much oppression.
On the 1st August, they paid a farewell visit to the sultan before proceeding on their return to Boussa. They were ushered into a large, gloomy, and uncomfortable apartment, through which naked girls and boys were constantly passing, carrying dirty calibashes in their hands, and swallows flew about the room in all directions. The sultan sat upon a platform covered with faded damask, and smoked a pipe of huge dimensions. Next day they departed, travelling in a direct line towards the river Cubbie. They embarked in two canoes, each about twenty feet long, and constructed of a single log. After they had sailed for about four miles, the Cubbie fell into the Niger. They took a different channel from that by which they had before ascended, and reached Boussa on the 5th. They now determined to proceed to Wowow, to purchase a canoe better fitted for navigating the Niger. They arrived at Wowow on the 12th, and had a favourable interview with the old chief. They then returned to Boussa to complete their preparations, but the arrival of the vessel was delayed, under various pretexts, until past the middle of September.
Early in the morning of the 20th, however, their goods were embarked in two canoes, and they set off. Some of their Boussa friends implored a blessing upon them before they started. They had not proceeded far before they found that the smaller of the two canoes was so unsafe, that they were compelled to lighten it much. After passing several towns of considerable size, they reached a large and beautiful island called Patashie, very fertile, and adorned with groves of lofty palm-trees. One of the Landers went to Wowow to procure better canoes, while the other remained on the island with the baggage. At length they succeeded in their object, and were again borne along the river. For some time they met with no obstacle; but at one part they came to a reef of rocks, to clear which they had to proceed through a very narrow channel, overhung with the branches of trees, and more than half filled with rushes and tall grass. Soon after passing into the main river, they landed at the town of Lever, or Layaba, which contains a great number of inhabitants, and was then in the hands of the Fellatahs; here they remained till the 4th October. The river at this place ran deep, and was free from rocks. Its width varied from one to three miles; the country on each side was flat, and a few insignificant villages were scattered at intervals along the banks. Yet at a little distance farther on, the banks were again overshadowed by large trees, the openings of which disclosed a fertile, and apparently populous country.
Near Bajiebo, they noticed several large canoes of a peculiar build, the bottom being of a single tree, and built up with planks to a considerable height. Upon these, sheds thatched with straw, were erected, which served the people for dwellings. Beyond this place the Niger separated into large branches, and the travellers went on by the eastward one; after they had passed an island, these again united.
After passing a high hill of curious granite rock, they came to a double range of rocky mountains, near which was a small village, where the canoe-men were exchanged. The hills are gloomy and romantic, fringed in some parts with stunted shrubs, which overhang deep precipices; they are haunted by wild beasts and birds of prey. In the very middle of the river a rocky island, called Mount Kesa, rose to the height of nearly 300 feet, and its steep sides had an imposing appearance.