The head of the principal branch of the Senegal river is about 80 geographical miles to the west of that of the Joliba; and the head of the Gambia, is again, about 100 west of the Senegal. The branches of the latter are very numerous, and intersect the country for about 200 miles from east to west, in the line of the caravan route: and it was this circumstance that detained Mr. Park, during a great part of the periodical rainy season, in Manding; a state of things, perhaps little expected, in a country regarded here, as the most thirsty on the globe.[48]
We may conclude that similar circumstances take place, with respect to the Joliba; only that as its course is such as to intercept all the streams that descend from the Kong mountains on the south, whilst Mr. Park’s travels along it, were confined to the northern bank, he had no opportunity of knowing it, any farther than by seeing various openings on that side; and by being told that he could not possibly make his way there. No doubt, it receives some large streams also, when its course diverges far enough from the mountains as to allow the waters room to collect.
At the lowest point to which Mr. Park traced it, and which (although about 420 British miles in direct distance from its source) could only be reckoned the early part of its course, it was a very considerable body of water; the largest, he says, that he had seen (in Africa,) and it abounded with crocodiles. The rainy season was but just begun; and the river might have been forded at Sego, where its bed expands to a vast breadth. Still, however, we must not estimate the bulk of the Niger, that Niger which was in the contemplation of Pliny and the Romans, by the measure of its bulk at Sego, and Silla.[49] If we suppose it to be the same river which passes by Kassina (and we know of no other), which place is 700 miles, or more, to the eastward of Silla, it would doubtless receive by the way great additional supplies of water, and be at least a much deeper river than where Mr. Park saw it. And here it may not be amiss to remark, for the use of those who are not conversant with the subject, that rivers make the greatest display of their waters, in proportion to their bulk, at a moderate distance from their sources; and are often wider above, than below.[50]
There can be no doubt but that the Joliba, is a noble stream; and the prince of the western rivers of Africa, as the Nile of the eastern: but the African rivers, however, rank lower than those of Asia and America.
Mr. Park judged that the Senegal river below the falls of F’low, or Félou (as Labat writes it), was about the bulk of the Tweed at Melross, in summer. This was indeed, in the dry season; but as the river does not begin to swell periodically till many months after that, Mr. Park, did not of course see it, at its lowest pitch. And yet this was the assemblage of all the principal branches of the river, save the Falemé, which was itself about three feet deep at the same season. But the Senegal is even fordable in some places below the conflux of the Falemé, according to Labat:[51] for the Moors cross it in the dry season, and commit depredations on some of the lands to the south. However, almost the whole of the towns and villages are placed on the south side, with a view of being in security for the longest possible term.
The Senegal river then, is by no means a very capital stream, except in the rainy season; when, like all the other tropical rivers, its bed is filled, and very commonly will not contain the additional waters. Mr. Park observed by the mark of the highest point of swelling of the river Kokoro (or eastern branch of the Senegal), that it had been twenty feet higher than when he crossed it, in the line of the southern route. The main branch of this river, the Ba-fing, or Black River, was not fordable, and was crossed over a temporary bridge of a very singular construction. Alligators, or crocodiles are found in all these branches, at the height at which Mr. Park passed them.
The Falemé river has also a remote source, and drains a great extent of country.
Concerning the Gambia Mr. Park had fewer notices. It is remarkable that the position pointed out to him for the source of this river, agrees very nearly with that found in Dr. Wadstrom’s map; from notices collected from another quarter. This is very satisfactory. I learn also from Dr. Afzelius that the distance across, between the approximating parts of the courses of the Gambia and Rio Grande, is four journies.
Mr. Park crossed in his way, six different streams that fall into the Gambia from the north-east. Amongst these the principal one is the Nerico, which flows from the quarter of Bondou; and is reckoned the eastern boundary of a tract which the Africans of this region style the Country of the West, expressed by that of the setting sun. This tract is on a lower level than that to the east; is flat, and the soil composed of clay and sand. It appears that the whole tract through which Mr. Park returned is covered with wood, cleared only in certain inhabited spots (Numidian fashion): of which, the great tract, named the Jallonka Wilderness, is composed of primeval forests.[52]
The Bambara and Kaarta countries are also exceedingly woody, but less so than the other tract; and the woods are of an inferior growth.